 | Home > My Defender > Td5 110 csw, Lowered, led's, Tints and Puma seats |
 
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769   
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Ok, so I got asked a couple of pages back to take pics when I replaced the second row triangle sections so here goes. First remove the sill which Is held on by 6, 10mm nuts and bolts from underneath. You can see the brackets where the bolts go on this pic of the back of the sill. Also there are two clips (one front and one back) where the wheel arches attach to the sill, the centre of the clip needs tapping through then the body will come out.
 Click image to enlarge Next drill out the six rivets from the triangle panel and take out the two clips (as above) that hold the wheel arch to the panel. Click image to enlarge The panel should then be removable with a bit of wiggling and you should be left with this. Click image to enlarge I chose to dinitrol the back of my new panel and left an untreated line where the rivets attach the panel to the car so I could also seal it (belt and braces  )
Click image to enlarge Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html Last edited by mk1collector on 23rd Apr 2015 8:23am. Edited 1 time in total |
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22nd Apr 2015 8:48pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265 
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Remember those rivets are unpainted from the factory
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22nd Apr 2015 9:04pm |
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| Tiger Member Since: 06 Jul 2012 Location: Wales Posts: 2265
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And in the 1st photo I think I'd be letting a doctor or at least a good vet have a look at that arm
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22nd Apr 2015 9:06pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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I also decided to dinitrol under where the panel attaches then added the sealer to the car side. Note there are two washers that need fitting to the bottom two rivet holes in between the panel and the car (I used sealer to stick them on so they didn't move while fitting the panel, don't forget to put the washers in!!!
Click image to enlarge When you put the new panel in place you need to drill the top two holes for rivets as they don't come on the new panel, make sure your door gap lines up before popping the rivets, then start riveting taking care not to scratch your fresh paint. Click image to enlarge Two more holes need drilling in your new panel to put the clips in to hold the wheel arch on (again the holes are not there on genuine panels when supplied) then re-bolt the sill back on (preferably with a friend to help) making sure the sill lines up with surrounding panels. No pics of this bit yet as I'm re-painting my chequer plate before it goes back on. While the sill is off its a good time to dinitrol the inner sill and back of the outer sill while everything is easily accessible. Like this 
Click image to enlarge Hope this helps anyone thinking of doing the job. It's not too difficult but leave a couple of hours to fit each side and get the panel painted before it goes on (front and back) if you want it to last Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html Last edited by mk1collector on 23rd Apr 2015 8:25am. Edited 1 time in total |
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22nd Apr 2015 9:06pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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the rivets have been left unpainted but I did lacquer them so hopefully no more white streaks down the panel Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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22nd Apr 2015 9:08pm |
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| Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000 
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Great job !
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22nd Apr 2015 9:37pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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I did clean and treat any surface rust I could find then dinitrolled while it was off. I think the reason the panels bubble there is just the usual Landrover lack of paint to the back of the panel so before fitting I had the panels blasted, zinc coated, powder coated then painted all round and as above dinitrolled and sealed at the back so I'm hoping it won't happen again. As for adding mud shield my chassis and out riggers all seem in pretty good nick so I'm not sure if this is a big problem area. Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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22nd Apr 2015 9:51pm |
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| apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547 
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Good work and interesting thread.
just read it from start to finish. |
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22nd Apr 2015 11:13pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Thank you
Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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22nd Apr 2015 11:16pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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The sills are back on and both sides done, just waiting for the chequer plate to dry fully now before fitting. If your wondering I put black sills on because it always annoyed me seeing grey around the sides of the chequer plate
maybe a little bit ocd.
Click image to enlarge Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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24th Apr 2015 8:29am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Next job
Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html Last edited by mk1collector on 19th Jul 2018 10:50pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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30th Apr 2015 12:43pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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It Looks more purposeful with them on I think
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Ray My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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30th Apr 2015 4:03pm |
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| Jimb1978 Member Since: 05 Sep 2012 Location: Huddersfield Posts: 808 
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I have had to look back at page 1 of this thread. You have been very busy adding subtle mods to make your defender have greater presence without looking over the top. I think you have done a great job and it spurrs me on to improve mine.
Personally, I think you should keep the boosts with the spacers. They are hard to beat for style, and must be one of the best standard issue alloys. Top modding Ray, but what happens when you reach the end of the list, because you must be close? 2002 110 td5 |
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30th Apr 2015 8:25pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769
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Thank you
it has changed a quite a bit from day one but I still want it to look pretty standard, boosts are great but I think a little under sized on a 110 so maybe 18" boosts but I really like the look of sawtooths. It'll be next year anyway so plenty of time to change my mind yet I've got loads more stuff planned all in lists, then smaller lists for each section and smaller lists to be finished before certain dates  and when I've finished everything I've still got three mk1 golfs to finish in the garage and the ongoing house projects so my work is in the 40 year plan area  Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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30th Apr 2015 10:15pm |
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