 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Work Light |
 
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| Pacha Member Since: 23 Feb 2020 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 772   
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Good, great spread - the ability to dim is also useful. Rgds. Chris |
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22nd May 2020 6:34pm |
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| Davy Member Since: 16 Feb 2017 Location: DERRY Posts: 39 
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Would love to see these pics would anyone have them ?
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31st May 2020 9:41pm |
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| BlackFender Member Since: 01 Nov 2018 Location: Vienna Posts: 13  
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As promised a few days ago...
For MY2013 upwards: If you want to get the 12V feed out of the tow bar loom - without cutting any wires - remove the grey plug in the unused big cavity. Connect a 2 mm2 wire to a SUMITOMO HE&HD male 4.8 mm terminal and apply a respective seal. I have ordered it at Automotive Connectors Ltd.  Click image to enlarge This fits then neatly in the tow bar connector. Click image to enlarge I then rooted the purple wire back trough the square hole useing a 7.9 mm grommet. The earth I have connected to the black earth cable of the rear tailgate loom. Both cables are running into a 2-way connector. Now I have a 12 feed as well to which I have connected my Labcraft scene light. The two red cables up left are for the switch which sits well protected in the corner of the speaker housing. 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge @Davy: A pic in the darkness will follow!  2013 110 TD4 SW Utility
1997 110 Tdi300 Hard Top 2013 90 TD4 Hard Top (trashed) |
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3rd Jun 2020 2:48pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1071  
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I finally got round to install a power socket in the rear (for her USB reading lights; all a man needs is the right motivation
 )
As I tapped it off the Puma's tow loom purple wire, I post it here instead of the "aux power socket" thread. This is the plug of a 13 pin tow socket: Click image to enlarge The permanent live purple wire is fused by F5 (20A) in the seat box: Click image to enlarge I made an extension loom to branch perm. 12V and ground off the tow loom: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Why so many wires? Well, I decided to install a switch to switch off both the interior USB socket and the tow socket's perm. 12V pin #9. So the red wire is 12V from F5 and brown is from the switch to the tow socket. Black is ground. It's connected to tow socket pin #3. According to spec, this is not correct and tow pin #13 should be used as ground. However, it's ok for the small amperages my USB socket will draw. The correct ground wire as well as ignition live (#10) and its ground wire (#11) are not part of the grey socket. They branch off the tow loom before the plug, directly to the tow socket. I didn't want to open that part of the loom yet, but maybe later, and so added the grey and yellow spare wires. Oh, and I removed the "legacy" plug with the blue wire loop (fog light). Hole, grommet, USB, switch, light, happy wife 
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge (that tube is not part of my mod - we have a pop-top roof and this is part of the door loom that usually runs down the rear near the door) |
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1st Sep 2020 5:34pm |
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| AlexSmith Member Since: 05 Sep 2013 Location: Arroio do Meio, RS Posts: 47  
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Very interesting mount for the worklight. I found it here and thought to share with you: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174084567465 It's a Sirio Antenne bracket. Click image to enlarge 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White 2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray 2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green |
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14th Jul 2022 1:16am |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1071
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ah, yes great idea
There's another thread:
https://www.defender2.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=895387#895387 I made a clothesline holder using the bracket (modified it for 90° angle)
Doesn't work with pop-top roof, however, so I have two of the brackets left :-/ |
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14th Jul 2022 6:11am |
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| AlexSmith Member Since: 05 Sep 2013 Location: Arroio do Meio, RS Posts: 47
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Pitty I'm too far (Brazil), otherwise I'd buy one from you. I'll try asking for a friend who works with stainless steel to build one for me.
2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White
2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray 2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green |
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14th Jul 2022 9:47am |
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| AlexSmith Member Since: 05 Sep 2013 Location: Arroio do Meio, RS Posts: 47
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In the end, this was what I came up with. Stainless steel.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Maybe the pictures can help someone out there. 2020: Defender 110 SW 300 Tdi 2004 Alpine White 2013-2017: Defender 110 S 2.4 (Puma) 2008 Stornoway Gray 2002-2005: Defender 90 CSW 300 Tdi Dark Green |
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25th Aug 2022 8:02pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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That is very nicely done. Have you put something like rubber or foam on the back of the vertical part against the roof though, as it will undoubtedly move or vibrate? Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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30th Aug 2022 7:31am |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 566 
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I took a slightly different approach. I took the power from the fuse box under the steering wheel (2015) using one of these.
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/add-a-circu...older.html I put a switch on the dash then fed the cable via the roof lining to the work lights at the rear. They are LED types so only draw 2.2A for the pair of them. Having them switchable from the driver's seat means I can use them as additional reversing lights when out in the country in the dark. |
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30th Aug 2022 2:11pm |
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