 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > New swivel housing ball needed. |
 
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2098   
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It does look a bit like curd though to be fair
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10th Mar 2022 6:42am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2098
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Now that’s a little bit nice
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10th Mar 2022 8:22am |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553 
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OK, just totting up everything on mine that were land rover parts related = £580
This included two swivel ball kits, one new stub axle, two sets of timken wheel bearings, all new bolts for swivel housing, stub axle, drive flanges, Railko pins and lower bearing pins, brake caliper bolts x2 sets (long story) swivel seal retainer plates (I already had suitable screws), flexible brake pipes, brake pads, brake pad retaining pins, 2ltr brake fluid, new nuts/tab washers/spacer washers for hubs, and a set of vented discs+calipers which were £100 via a forum member. Also brass brake pipe fittings for the full vehicle £31 Brake flare tool £22.50 Helicoil kit £15 Bonda primer £16.90 (lots left) SS bleed nipples £5.40 A free roll of cunifer pipe from a friend. Seal driver kit (could have got away without this but happy to have it as I did use it) £17.90 Flare nut spanner set to 24mm £16.90 Seal puller £8.20 Thread chaser set £17 Mapp torch (good torch but 2nd hand) £34 Mapp gas £16 So about £200 for tools etc So all in about £800 This took me quite a bit of time but that's because I wanted to do one side before the other, plus doing the electrolysis- cleaning - 2 coats of paint, waiting on deliveries etc. And I did this a probably the worst time weather wise (we had three named storms in one week ffs). I wish, for the extra £22, that I had replaced both stub axles. I now have a relatively good axle from a very tatty one, better brakes as the old were getting tired and I have replaced and blead the system. I have various gaskets and hub nuts/washers over as I bought spares. I only used 900ml of brake fluid so I have 1ltr unopened. The electrolysis kit was made up from kit I already had (aldi battery charger, old battery, old steel for anodes and large bucket. Also worth including a couple of tins of brake cleaner and threadlock. I also had bearing grease in the shed. This is probably going to be more than what you need to do, but as I had the costs here I thought I would share them. One point - when you take your calipers off check your thread size if you are going to replace the bolts. Chances are that yours will be the fine thread M12x1.25, but on mine one side was the coarse M12x1.75 - but again, that is long story territory and the reason I needed the helicoil kit. Good luck with it. Mick |
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10th Mar 2022 9:19am |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2212 
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Awesome write up Mick. Great work and description thanks. 👍
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10th Mar 2022 10:13am |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2098
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Great list and write up
I’d also recommend running a tap though the many threaded holes - particularly those where thread lock has been used previously -ensuring all swarf is prevented from entering clean/critical parts |
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10th Mar 2022 5:32pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4209 
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We’ll blow me down with a feather. I never before noticed that the brake backplate is shaped to be a cooling duct as well. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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10th Mar 2022 7:48pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2098
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To be fair, they are not normally so beautifully clean, so you don’t notice that detail…  |
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10th Mar 2022 8:25pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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Totally agree with this. The usual taps are M6, M8 and M12. Thankfully I have decent taps in those sizes and used in all the holes. I did however purchase some thread chasers. One person noted that thread chasers are not as good at cutting a new thread so are less likely to damage an existing thread. Also the set I purchased has M6, 8, 10 and 12 - but it has the different thread pitches too. I purchased the set so I had the M12x1.25 fine thread for the brakes. |
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10th Mar 2022 8:56pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1841 
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Thread chasers: I’m sure it’s the cheapy solution, but I’ve a number of bolts of various sizes that I’ve sliced with a grinder or hacksaw to make ‘thread chasers’. As noted, they’re not going to cut away at an older thread, but at least do something to clean it up.
If you’re careful with the grinder (thin, slitting disc) you can angle one cut so that it has a cleaning ‘chisel’ action while being wound in, and then do another cut the opposite way round so that it lifts any dirt, old thread lock etc on the way out. This way you can do ‘weird’ things where you’d never have a chaser or tap - the diff drain & fill plugs for example. I had one rear diff that was so rusty I cut channels into an old plug and ran that in/out a couple of times. Sorted. If you’re replacing the bolts anyway - caliper bolts, hub to axle etc etc, then do this with one of the old ones and you know you have the right size and pitch. A bit more awkward, but you can take the same approach with nuts & studs. Stick the old nut in the vice, put a hacksaw blade through it and cut your slots, then run it on/off the ‘stud’ a few times. For example I had one radius arm that was supplied galved, and the thread was pretty clogged. A few slices into an old nut, on and off the thread with a bit of light oil, and it cleaned up nicely. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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11th Mar 2022 9:12am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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It is generally not considered good engineering practice to "clean" existing threads with a tap (or a die if it is a male thread) due to the risk of damage and consequently compromising the strength of the fastening. A thread chaser is preferred.
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11th Mar 2022 2:06pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2098
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Thanks Blackwolf - I actually didn’t know that and will be taking your advice
Are the thread chasers a slightly undersized/undercut tap for want of a better description? |
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11th Mar 2022 6:36pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372
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I think it is more that they are not generally HSS and are therefore likely to be less hard than the parent material containing the thread you're cleaning, so the chance of inadvertently cutting an entirely new thread is greatly reduced. In my experience they are often also very slightly smaller than a tap (or larger than a die).
Donmacn's suggestion of making your own thread chasers is a well-known, widely-used, and very effective trick, and is much cheaper than buying either taps/dies or thread chasers. I have, incidentally, come across cheap (generally chinesium) taps and dies which bear no relation at all to the thread form they claim to be and which will destroy any part you tap with them. If you are buying taps or dies, buy good ones, they are cheaper in the long run. |
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11th Mar 2022 7:58pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2098
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I shall be experimenting with thread chasers over the weekend |
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11th Mar 2022 8:05pm |
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| Mossberg Member Since: 29 Feb 2020 Location: Lancs Posts: 553
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This is the set I purchased. It dies not cut or clean the thread as much as an actual tap and to be fair, until I had this issue I had never really thought of a tap actually damaging a thread.
The reason I bought this set was someone recommended a thread chaser and this set was £20 compared to £13 for a single tap. https://www.vidaxl.co.uk/e/vidaxl-15-piece...gJSovD_BwE I would have cut a groove into a bolt and use that, but the only M12x1.25 I had was the one I had to fit. All the taps I have are the standard coarse thread so there are some useful additional sizes for me. I do agree that some of the cheap tap sets are only any good for emergency use. Any holes I tap I use a good quality tool as they produce a good thread and last for many holes if you keep them well lubricated and clean. Some kit, such as taps and drills, you can't compromise on quality. |
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11th Mar 2022 9:39pm |
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