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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 231

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
I've searched everywhere and can't find any preload figures, it seems that most rely on experience to set the preload, but when I dont have that experience I'd like to get an undersatanding of what the actual preload should be

Does anyone know what the preload should be on the wheel bearings???

I've got 16.5N when measured from the wheel studs with a calibrated spring gauge.
Post #893924 25th Mar 2021 5:40pm
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Shroppy



Member Since: 25 Feb 2016
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 866

United Kingdom 1986 Defender 130 V8 Petrol HCPU Aintree Green
I can't help with preload figures I'm afraid, I've always used the twin-nut setup and adjusted until there is no/very little discernible play at the edge of the tyre when rocked.

As for the ABS sensor bushes, I should have a pair that came out of my axle. Drop me a PM if you still need them. 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 2 109"
Series 1 80"
Post #893927 25th Mar 2021 5:45pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 231

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Update on the ABS sensor, they do need a bush for the rear axles (thanks for the help Martin) and it's not the cover that comes with the sensor. I'll post up a pic of the part when I get it.

I'm getting a real run around from the break kit suppliers, as they still have not put right the kit they wrongly supplied Crying or Very sad

On a more positive note got some of the plating coated and some other parts


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finished the fuel tank arrangement and got the tank installed


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I have decided to opt for dash 8 fuel lines even though it seems all the modifiers use dash 6.

Hopefully the bulkhead is going to get some colour today


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have started to bolt items onto the chassis as well


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Post #895527 2nd Apr 2021 9:30am
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
Dont forget to seam seal all the bulkhead joints/seams before top coat, what fuel pump did you use? The LT likes to run a PWM type pump for direct injection.
Post #895596 2nd Apr 2021 4:51pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 231

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Hi Linds, thanks for your comments

I asked the guy who is doing the bodywork to make the seamsealer look as close to OE as possible, his reply was that he wasnt sure he could do it that badly, made me laugh.

The fuel pump is a Deatschwerks DW200 In-Tank Fuel Pump 255lph


Click image to enlarge
Post #895599 2nd Apr 2021 5:04pm
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
Yes I agree with him but there are some sizeable gaps between spotwelds! We generally use a coating of Raptor followed with a coat of Lizardskin acoustic then a coat of Lizardskin thermal barrier then the top colour coats. Have you had that pump recommended for the LT? They usually need a constant 75psi and high flow to feed the high pressure pump
Post #895603 2nd Apr 2021 5:13pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 231

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
I've chosen that pump for several reasons the first being the LT requires 170LPH at 72psi to the HP pump, The DW200 produces 90 psi at 170LPH and is good for over 200LPH at 72 psi.

The DW is also an in tank (I prefer this over a suction, due to complications with lift etc) and is a very good fit for the OE sender unit. I could not find another that was such a good fit all round. I'm not sure what pump others are using as I didn’t find much info on this topic. I am very happy to look at alternatives if there are pumps better suited.

The only issue I do have is that I'm running fuel line sized to run a future blower, however this pump is unlikely to be suitable if I do go down this route in the future.

Thanks for the advice on the seam sealing.
Post #895653 2nd Apr 2021 8:52pm
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
I could be wrong but I think the minimum spec was the DW300 pump? Aeromotive do a nice Phantom in tank kit but its designed for a steel tank really but may work with the plastic tank. You may also have to think about a auxiliary tank on a 90 as the range is very restricted when running in anger. It will be interesting to see what the fuel economy is like with the LT as GM claim high 20s for midsized pickups!
Post #895742 3rd Apr 2021 11:38am
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G4V JW



Member Since: 24 Sep 2018
Location: Northants
Posts: 190

United Kingdom 
My god Shocked great read Thumbs Up Instagram; @gavin_walding
Post #895746 3rd Apr 2021 12:22pm
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Co1



Member Since: 19 Aug 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 3683

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Loire Blue
Linds Hanson wrote:
I could be wrong but I think the minimum spec was the DW300 pump? Aeromotive do a nice Phantom in tank kit but its designed for a steel tank really but may work with the plastic tank. You may also have to think about a auxiliary tank on a 90 as the range is very restricted when running in anger. It will be interesting to see what the fuel economy is like with the LT as GM claim high 20s for midsized pickups!


Hi 20’s?!! If that’s the case where do I sign up!
Post #895748 3rd Apr 2021 12:33pm
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
Yes the old generation LS engines were already more fuel efficient than any RV8 admittedly not a major achievement! But the LT Gen 5 engines benefit from direct injection and variable valve timing making them not only more powerful but also more efficient. The only downside is they require regular intake port/valve cleaning to prevent coke buildup a problem shared with every direct injection petrol engine until recently.
Post #895755 3rd Apr 2021 1:10pm
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jonny



Member Since: 10 Mar 2013
Location: North Wilts
Posts: 159

I believe the later LS and the LT engines also have 'active fuel management' - when you are at light throttle / cruise they will shut down cylinders (no spark / injection) and effectively half the active displacement and reduce the fuel consumption.
Post #895756 3rd Apr 2021 1:18pm
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mrfirepro



Member Since: 06 Nov 2020
Location: kent
Posts: 231

United Kingdom 1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
very good discussion points and great input Thumbs Up

Fuel Pump - I did consider the DW300 but iirc it was around 280LPH at 72psi. I'm not going to install the tub until last thing so hopefully I'll identify if there are any fuel issues before access will be a problem.

LT1 crate engine - for maximum efficiency direct injection and coils per cylinder but sadly no Cylinder deactivation Crying or Very sad , the following is from the manual....

"Cylinder Deactivation - Not Used With Chevrolet Performance Engine Control Kit This engine is used in the Generation 6 Camaro. In production, to provide maximum fuel economy under light load driving conditions, the engine control module (ECM) will command the cylinder deactivation system on to deactivate engine cylinders 1, 7, 6, and 4, switching to a V4 mode. The engine will operate on 8 cylinders, or V8 mode, during engine starting, engine idling, and medium to heavy throttle applications. This system requires many inputs (weight of vehicle, tire size, fnal drive ratio, etc.) to work properly. These parameters are unknown when selling the Chevrolet Performance engine controller kit. Due to these unknown parameters as well as the need to tune the motor mounts and exhaust system for operation in both V8 and V4 modes. The Chevrolet Performance engine control kit disables this feature. The engine has not been changed, so cylinder deactivation hardware is still present."

Fuel Tanks - it's great this topic has come up Thumbs Up and one of my many concerns with solutions to find with a potential 100ish mile range. I'm not expecting more than 10mpg but again its been difficult finding real world figures.

I'm nowhere with this and would welcome advice, I was looking to add the plastic auxiliary tank in the O/S wheel arch but that’s not possible (or at least I don’t think so) as a clash with the rear seat bracket. My next thought was to add a second tank (which I would fabricate) and connect it to the bottom of the existing tank (with plastic welded spigot added to the bottom of the tank) but was going to look at this later when I've located the tank for the air suspension and can assess where there is going to be room. Any solution I look at has some serious issues to overcome.

Any other ideas??
Post #895826 4th Apr 2021 7:26am
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Linds Hanson



Member Since: 16 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 486

United Kingdom 
Ive fitted the plastic under arch tank and they are a pain to fully seal the lower balance pipe to the original plastic tank. The original tank has no perfectly flat sections to seal onto. About the only free space you could gain would be to lose the drivers under seat locker and move the electrics to the other side battery compartment. There is plenty of wiring length as the loom comes over from the LH side anyway. It would have to be a balance fill from the main tank unless you had a transfer pump arrangement.
Post #895869 4th Apr 2021 11:48am
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Defendermatt



Member Since: 15 Sep 2016
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 313

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 Other SW Bonatti Grey
I am getting about 12mpg with my v8 which equates to 180/200miles a tank. Standard puma 90 plastic tank. 1989 90 4.3 V8
2012 L405 OF
2014 D4 HSE Lux (SOLD)
2015 90 HT (SOLD)
@d9o.mf
Post #895960 5th Apr 2021 7:33am
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