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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 289

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver
LED NAS/95mm Rear light plinth datum/locating points
Can anybody supply accurate locating/datum points for fitting LED NAS/95mm rear lighting plinths?

Are they supposed to line up with the Econoseal connector body holes, or the current screw holes (the ones with a small square black plastic butterfly clip) or with the curves on the body capping? Confused
How did LR do it originally and is there a better way that is cosmetically better?
How do you deal with the protruding rivets?

I’m fitting a complete rear set, tail/stop, indicator, fog and reverse, and confused with the indicators and tail/stop on my 110 Utility 2.2 Puma. Big Cry Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion
Post #837354 15th Jun 2020 4:47pm
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Scoobeenut



Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: West London
Posts: 310

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
If I remember correctly when fitting mine the screw holes in the replacement plinths just line up with the existing mounting holes in the bodywork.
Post #837357 15th Jun 2020 4:58pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2223

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
Easy fit type have a smaller base of the same footprint as the originals but take the larger NAS type lamp.
Google should return some results.
HTH
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #837364 15th Jun 2020 5:51pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
It does depend, to a certain extent, on who's plinths you've got as there are a few variations. However, in general terms, the rear indicators are a straight swap but the stop/tail lights don't quite line up with the body. They overhang the barrel roll curve of the bodyside by a couple of mm. If you can't live with that then the only solution is to open up the hole in the body to move the lights inboard slightly.

Fixing holes are another tricky one. Typically, aftermarket plinths don't have holes in that correspond with the existing light fixing points. The way around this is to push one of the existing lights through each plinth from the rear and use something suitably long and pointy to mark where to drill it.

The alternative to this is, as Mo suggested, to use a particular style of stepped plinth available from a company called Bolt on Bits, which is essentially a converter from the original light fixings to the NAS versions. I use these plinths on the front as they neatly fit inside the plastic headlight finisher panels without the need to cut anything. I'm not so keen on them on the rear though, as they're a bit incongruous to my eyes.

To get around the protruding rivet issue, line the rear of the plinths with some 2mm thick self-adhesive neoprene. Can be bought as a tape or in sheets. That gives it just enough thickness to a absorb the rivet head.

There's a few more details on my build thread here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/post702216.html#702216 Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #837420 15th Jun 2020 9:36pm
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Scoobeenut



Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: West London
Posts: 310

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
These are the plinths I used fro MUD Stuff https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/electr...linth.html
Post #837450 16th Jun 2020 6:51am
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ARC99



Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue
A couple of months ago I considered either swapping the existing lamps for NAS style of replacing the bulbs with LED's.
After the advise on here that the tail/break lights may overhang depending on the year of manufacture I purchased several makes of plinth, including the MUD , most stated OEM, not one lined up with the screw holes and the hole in the body without over hanging the outer edge of the body.

I couldn't get hold of the foam rubber pad that goes behind the plinth that tries to prevent water getting between the plinth and the body. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to Censored us off.

Richard
Post #837460 16th Jun 2020 8:06am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
I just made my own gaskets from foam tape:


Click image to enlarge
 Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #837462 16th Jun 2020 8:14am
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Scoobeenut



Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: West London
Posts: 310

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black
My MUD plinths came with the foam gaskets.
Post #837465 16th Jun 2020 8:42am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6604

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
To make life really easy, use the SVX plinth LR009773


Click image to enlarge


Pre-drilled with loads of holes to make fitting at the top and bottom to the existing holes easy peasy, and at the top the lamp will sit inside the body curve.

About £13+VAT for an OE one, they come with foam on the back.

Only compatible with LED lamps as they have a smaller cable/connector hole in than the fog/reverse
(aka "NAS") type plinth (AMR3850).

At the bottom you can use a standard fog/reverse plinth AMR3850. Get ones without the moulded in screws - about £3 for an OE item.

You will however have to make your own gasket for these.

Wrap a few turns of insulating tape around the body of one of the old 73mm lamps until it is a snug fit through the hole in the centre of the plinth. Then use the original screw holes in the lens as a jig to drill holes through the plinth between the lamp screw bosses (holes want to be at the red dots below).


Click image to enlarge


Also remove the locating "pip" from the back if it is there.

This method is the official MOD way of doing the 95mm lamp upgrade on Wolfs Wink


Click image to enlarge


They will then screw to the original indicator mounting holes.

For my 95mm conversion I used SVX plinths at the top with LED stop/tail lamps, and NAS plinths at the bottom with filament indicators.


Click image to enlarge


The top lamp on a LR009773 plinth sides inside the body Cool  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #837483 16th Jun 2020 9:46am
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LandymanStefan



Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I’ve just done mine.

Used genuine plinths with the gasket, was easy peasy. The stop and tail on the right had a tiny over lap around the natural roll of the body shoulder so I just needle filed the hole a mm or 2.



Click image to enlarge
Post #837512 16th Jun 2020 12:45pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Is there a preferred/recommended manufacturer of the larger NAS size lights using LEDs? I was looking for a completed coloured set for the rear, like what Wipac do with their smaller size units. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #837608 16th Jun 2020 6:44pm
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The Zee



Member Since: 26 May 2019
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 289

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Indus Silver
I wanted a complete set, but assembled my own from Perei/LITE wire (new name for Perei) and ordered the whole lot from Dun-Bri Group

Got individual clear/white/SVX style lights with “fly leads” (Tail/Stop x2, Indicator x2, Reverse x2, Fog x1)
number plate light (OEM Look)
lots of econoseal connectors, male, female in both 2 and 3 pin
a couple of the plinths, (which I now know may need to be added to)
self adhesive gaskets,
and a Labcraft Scenelight
all delivered nextday (on a Saturday for no extra) Cool

Dun-Bri were very good, although there is some assembly required, and I do need a LED flasher relay.

I can post part numbers for the set if wanted?



Click image to enlarge

Sorry for the image quality, not my normal standard Sad Zaid-M
www.DefencePhotos.com
2014 Defender 110 Utility, 2.2 Puma, Indus Silver
Not just transport more like a religion
Post #837618 16th Jun 2020 7:28pm
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LandymanStefan



Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I bought the 95mm perei/lite-wire lights and the econoseal male plugs from dun-bri as above.

Bought the econoseal crimp tool on eBay

I can’t remember where I bought the genuine abc and plinths from
Post #837632 16th Jun 2020 8:09pm
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Hufflepuff



Member Since: 25 Oct 2014
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 727

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Tonga Green
Interesting, I've not come across Dun-Bri before.

Their website seems to be on the blink at the moment and won't allow me to look at the individual parts, but I see them at:

https://www.dun-bri.com/catalogue/results.aspx?search=95mm

Pity they don't do a box set with them all in, but I guess this way you can pick'n'mix the parts. Thank you for the suggestion. 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW
Post #837656 16th Jun 2020 8:52pm
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LandymanStefan



Member Since: 30 Aug 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 881

England 2001 Defender 90 Td5 SW Epsom Green
I think it’s because land rovers aren’t their primary use. They’re on ambulances and the back of lorry trailers.
Post #837657 16th Jun 2020 8:57pm
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