 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Minor body work repairs - Advice welcome |
 
|
|
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391   
|
Over the years I've repaired several holes on S1 panels by bonding a patch on the inside and filling, and it has worked satisfactorily. In the old days I used to use a two-part expoxy because it was all we had in those days, but the patches are as secure now as then.
If you do try this approach, feather the edges of the hole before filling it or else you will probably see the sharp edge of the hole still after filling. |
||
2nd May 2020 8:50am |
|
| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414  
|
If you are going for filler or epoxy route, which is safest, then make sure that the filler/epoxy is feathered. This means you have to dent around the holes you are covering inwards such that after sanding you get back a smooth finish. Never done this myself on an aluminium panel, but have done a lot of similar repairs on grp boats. Key is to avoid stress concentration, typical when you have sharp edges.
From the pics, and question, I am thinking you have a metallic. With metallic you can easily blend the base coat, this will blend any color difference between the new and old paint. Blending clear coat is not ideal, better clear coat the whole panel. Having said that, i have successfully blended solid colours using a blending thinner. This comes in aresol. Before spraying, wet sand 1000grit or finer around the blending zone. 1000grit scratches are easy to cut and polish out later. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
||
|
2nd May 2020 8:59am |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677 
|
Cheers guys. All advice welcome. One terms of patching from behind then filling, does it need to be an aluminium patch, of is there something better than this to use?
|
||
|
2nd May 2020 10:01am |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17391
|
I use aluminium (best of all cut from a scrap panel, so same alloy). Degrease thoroughly and roughen the surface to be bonded. Moderate heat (eg careful use of a hot air paint-stripper) will accelerate the curing of cold cure epoxy and result in a much better bond. Roughening the patch also helps key the filler.
As noted above, I feather the edges of the hole (rather than knock in the panel as suggested) so that the reverse side, where the patch is, is flat. This gives good strength and looks better from behind. |
||
|
2nd May 2020 10:24am |
|
| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782  
|
Carefully clean the areas and polish them, put a button headed stainless bolt with a nylon washer underneath then paint the head of the bolt to match with an artist brush - much less hassle!
Keith |
||
|
2nd May 2020 10:28am |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677
|
Thanks guys. Have cleaned up both areas and this is what we are left with. The window frame has a bit of corrosion so will need taking right back. The wing is OK, the 2 holes to fill then plenty of sanding, light coat of filler and paint.
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
||
|
2nd May 2020 10:54am |
|
| Chugga90 Member Since: 07 Sep 2014 Location: Bucks Posts: 208 |
Would the air intake they fitted to a wolf Land Rover be acceptable for you and would this cover the fixings?
|
||
|
2nd May 2020 11:30am |
|
| Grouse Member Since: 16 Apr 2012 Location: on the hill Posts: 521 |
Rather than going to all the trouble of sticking bits of metal on and filling and sanding etc etc - which I wouldn’t be happy with, I would rather just replace the panel.
You are going to have to paint it anyway, panels are not that expensive - they are an easy DIY fit - plus you can sell the old one afterwards - thus probably no more expensive or time consuming 2017 Range Rover L405 Vogue SE V8 Diesel #16 Land Rover 110 300 TDI |
||
|
2nd May 2020 1:06pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677
|
I know what you mean about just replacing the panel, but I’d rather put the effort in and re work what I’ve got. New panel is the fall back position!
|
||
|
2nd May 2020 1:33pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677
|
Currently filling and sanding. When it comes to paint I’m going for etch primer, 3 coats of primer and then I’ll flat back. Then finish colour (metallic Loire blue) then clear coat. I don’t flat after the metallic do I?
|
||
|
2nd May 2020 2:45pm |
|
| isacs Member Since: 28 Aug 2015 Location: Leamington spa Posts: 404
|
I took my RAI off and fitted the wolf intake
|
||
|
2nd May 2020 2:46pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677
|
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
||
|
2nd May 2020 4:42pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677
|
Made good progress today. This is before and after on the window frame. Has had 3 coats of high build primer and then a light coat of black that will act as a levelling coat.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
||
|
2nd May 2020 5:23pm |
|
| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3677
|
After.
Click image to enlarge There is a touch of orange peel, but less than the factory paint job! Needs a good buffing then probably a couple more clear coats, but for now I’m pretty chuffed. |
||
|
3rd May 2020 10:05am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
