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custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

Does anyone have the part numbers for the above rubber gasket and screws?

Mine are all in-tact, but both could do with replacing I used 3 in 1 today also on all the components mentioned, and only lithium grease on the master cylinder piston and as it wasn't any kind of spray that kept the cylinder rubber boot clean and un contantiwted of 3 in 1.

Seems a minor but easier clutch use improvement.

The screws seem to be a machine type screw, M5 size and around around 9mm long.
The pitch seems corse which many are not, does anyone know any more to this?

It'd be useful to have a hex head screw or different type that a spanner could be used on as the screws aren't easy access, especially the single screw that is difficult access with the brand master cylinder in the way that one is a real pain.

Failing that, I'll just have to get new as they could do with replacing really. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

27th Mar 2019 9:33pm

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Not a direct reply to the above, but after about a year of creaking that no amount of spray lube or grease gunned in via the installed port would fix I went nuclear and replaced the full pedal box.

No more creak/stick in the pedal stroke and it's so much easier to finesse the clutch now. I suspect I may have an output shaft getting near the end of it's life so I'm paying closer attention to changes, pretty happy with the vehicle again

Decided I may as well do the master cylinder as well, got new seals for around the banjo joint which subsequently leaked, didn't want to torque the clutch sensor too much (puma era) as years ago I had sheared one of them off in the process. Popped the old seals back in (10 years old, gone through multiple installs) and it was leak free again (!)

Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

27th Mar 2019 10:23pm

o4dn

Member Since: 08 Jan 2010
Location: South West
Posts: 538

2009 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White

custom90steve wrote:
Does anyone have the part numbers for the above rubber gasket and screws?

Gasket: 272819
Plate mounting: 272713
Screws: SL510032 “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique.
--
2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW
1979 Land Rover Series 3 88"

28th Mar 2019 6:34am

ARC99

Member Since: 19 Feb 2013
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 1831

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Cairns Blue

The clutch on my 2008 111 squeaked I just ignored it and turned up the radio, I did the clutch spring change and it stopped .
The problem was the little rubber/plastic bushes had worn away and it was metal against metal. It appeared to have bushed in but that was just larger end I could see there was nothing in the hole. Don't make old people mad.
We don't like being old in the first place,
so it doesn't take much to

us off.

Richard

28th Mar 2019 8:20pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

o4dn wrote:
custom90steve wrote:
Does anyone have the part numbers for the above rubber gasket and screws?

Gasket: 272819
Plate mounting: 272713
Screws: SL510032

Thank-you. Much appreciated.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

28th Mar 2019 8:37pm

Pickles

Member Since: 26 May 2013
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 3784

2013 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Keswick Green

ARC99 wrote:
The clutch on my 2008 111 squeaked I just ignored it and turned up the radio, I did the clutch spring change and it stopped .
The problem was the little rubber/plastic bushes had worn away and it was metal against metal. It appeared to have bushed in but that was just larger end I could see there was nothing in the hole.

Yes, I think those bushes are very important. I never had a squeak, but I did have a broken clutch spring which was replaced under warranty. The workshop manager noticed those "bushes" were not looking too flash, out of alignment etc, so he replaced them.
Pickles.

28th Mar 2019 9:32pm

newton-tony

Member Since: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 122

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Firenze Red

Loving this thread as the clutch pedal squeaks on my new (to me) 110 - I now have some things to try

2nd Apr 2019 5:34pm

Adam17

Member Since: 15 May 2018
Location: Within Bedfordshire
Posts: 1193

I think I unleashed half a can of WD40 on mine, still squeaks!!!!

I just turn the stereo up now.

Regards
Adam

Loving The Duchess
The Defender 110 TD5 XS

My Defender story - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic64005.html

3rd Apr 2019 11:19am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17372

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

nosnibod wrote:
I've tried everything everyone here has suggested. None of it worked.

However what did work was greasing the main pedal pivot - and no it doesn't mean taking everything apart.

If you feel down the inside of the pedal box - from inside the engine bay, you will feel the end of the shaft that the pedal rotates on. It's hollow, and seems to have grease ports inside it out to the bearing surface.

The end of that shaft is in fact threaded for a grease nipple but LR - in their wisdom - just bung some sealant in there instead.

If you prise the sealant out, put a grease nipple in, you can inject grease into the pedal pivot.

It's been covered on here before:-

http://www.defender2.net/forum/post469048.html

And here for more photos:-

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showth...utch-pedal

In the linked thread there is a long discussion about the size of the nipple (ie the thread in the end of the shaft), the general consensus being (a) that it is 6mm, and (b) that it is the same as the thread in the grease nipple holes in the propshafts. Clearly these two conclusions are mutually exclusive since the thread in the propshaft holes is 1/4" UNF and not 6mm. it is likely that you can force a 6mm nipple into a 1/4" UNF hole since a 6mm coarse thread has a 1mm pitch (conveniently therefore 25.4 tpi) and 1/4 UNF is 28tpi.

I've done some digging into the origins of the shaft, and the Puma clutch pedal pivot shaft, p/n 272712 actually first appeared with introduction pendant-mounted pedals on the SII in 1958/9 and has been the same part (and the same part number) ever since. In Series days, the hole in the end of the shaft was plugged with a hex head setscrew, p/n 255202, which has had various descriptions in the parts books over the years, the most descriptive being "Oil plug for pedal shaft". As far as I can determine, 255202 is a 1/4" UNF x 3/8" long hex setscrew. I suspect that it is only in recent times that the dreaded bean counters insisted that the screw was replaced with a blob of sealant.

I do find it amusing that long after the owner's manual stopped telling the owner to remove the retaining screw, fit a nipple, inject oil, remove the nipple, and replace the retaining screw, JLR was STILL buying shafts which were fully machined to support proper lubrication! There are at least three machining operations needed on the shaft which are completely redundant, although handy for those of use with squeaky pedals.

16th Jul 2019 10:42am

hank

Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2298

More info here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic22839-15.html > 110 XS Double Cab

16th Jul 2019 10:49am

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