Home > In Car Electronics > The definitive Defender ICE thread |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382 |
There aren’t extra components that I’m aware of except for wiring. IIRC there is a plug specific loom for plug and play. It’s a active sub, so the amp and sub are combined in the same unit. A sub and amp separate are a passive set up. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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2nd Apr 2018 12:01pm |
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CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1861 |
Sorry for the slow reply
Maybe I was just confused by the pic on the Bay listing |
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8th Apr 2018 12:01pm |
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Tdi4 Member Since: 24 Oct 2014 Location: Houten Posts: 513 |
You can also design a custom cubbybox
No need to put it behind like LR does a defender from 1984 pretending to be a puma with a touch of Range Rover |
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8th Apr 2018 12:59pm |
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CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1861 |
So, this SWE-1200 is just bolt behind the cubby, then plug and play |
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9th Apr 2018 5:53pm |
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mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 |
The Landrover version is plug and play if specked from factory but the picture you put up is the standard alpine version which looks like it has a seperate amp and optional controllers, so you will need power, Earth and ignition live to power it and rca leads from the back of the stereo to send signal to it. All reasonably easy to do but not totally plug and play. Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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9th Apr 2018 6:00pm |
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CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1861 |
Thanks for the reply, so now I know that I need the LR version, which I am sure I will struggle to find at a reasonable cost
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9th Apr 2018 6:19pm |
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GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10382 |
@CarMan, it's a good job I didn't come down in the 300, the ICE in that would have had you spending
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9th Apr 2018 7:48pm |
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DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1410 |
Fitting the Landrover version of the Alpine sub is not straightforward. There is a wiring loom needed that doesn't come with the sub and is not generally available from a dealer.
It will be less bother to fit the aftermarket Alpine sub, amp and controller, mounting the extra bits in the cubby box. |
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9th Apr 2018 8:01pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382 |
If you want the Genuine type I'm sure it'll come at an extortionate price tag.
Might be a very long shot, but might be worth asking a breaker if there is any in at all. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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9th Apr 2018 8:12pm |
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CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1861 |
Thanks Greeni for sparing me that at least
Thanks DSC-off for the heads-up Think I can feel a chat with my local ICE specialists coming on, but they aren't shy |
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9th Apr 2018 8:16pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382 |
Out of interest, what RCA cables are others running?
Not much discussed regarding these and I'd be interested to know what others are running. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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18th Apr 2018 5:51pm |
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wyvern Member Since: 13 Dec 2009 Location: Cornwall Posts: 2109 |
Guys Ive got a genuine type sub siting in my shed taken out of our 2012 xs110 ... - any one have an idea of the price of this unit as have no idea of their worth ...no wiring loom though (I’ve also got the alpine head unit to go with it ) Poppy - TDCI (Puma) 110XS 2.2 - Camper conversion - see the build here - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic56530.html Elgar -TDCI(Puma) 110XS Dormobile - now sold Devon & Cornwall 4x4 Response - DC126 |
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18th Apr 2018 6:54pm |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20382 |
Just a few teaser shots here at the moment. . . .
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I'm 80% there with my intended system, but delayed a bit again due to servicing due and a few other repairs to pay for. In the pics you're looking at 0ga primary power feeds, plus 4ga primary power feeds. (Distribution set up, split feeds.) 12ga speaker wire. A little oversized, but I like it that's way. The cable is the best TOFC I've ever had, and very very flixible. 0ga is rated up to 350A, so way way way more than I need but is better to reduce voltage losses. Bigger is better, in this case. You cannot buy this quality of cable here in the UK. 🇬🇧 You can get OFC (Oxygen Free Copper, but, not Tinned Oxygen Free Copper.) at least from any brands I would like specific to audio. And I do indeed want quality brands.. Autoleads Proflex OFC, was good but has been discontinued in production. Definitely always avoid CCA or KCA. (Copper Clad Aluminium.) It's commonly known for causing your system significant voltage drop. This new cable I have got is TOFC by Knu Konceptz. 🇺🇸 I'm really pleased with it. It is however, very expensive as expected with high copper content and prices. More to come in due course.. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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2nd May 2018 6:20pm |
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ngins Member Since: 15 Jan 2017 Location: Down South Posts: 85 |
Hi All,
Sorry - I have gone right through this thread (although not all in one go so I may have missed something) so just checking on the consensus. I like the idea of a Focal iBus Sub under the cubby (in a box - MUD or Far Corners maybe?) as I get the extra front amp as well. I have seen a few posts stating not to put the sub under anything if you can help it - is that the consensus or is it ok? Either way, does anyone have any photos of how they have wired (routed) sub power to the battery (back to the head unit I am fine with). Is it easier to put a hole under the cubby and then come back up though the battery box, or route inside? I am always reluctant to put any more holes in things if I can help it. Will be fitting to a 2013 Puma 110.... thanks in advance and sorry if this is already posted somewhere - I am going ICE blind...... |
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3rd May 2018 4:57pm |
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