 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
 
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i dont live far away from there now 
| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410  
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Ok so an update on Miffy. The skimming of the head gasket seems to have solved the coolant overpresurising and exiting out of the expansion tank cap issue. I have done a good 1500 miles in her since the repair, mostly long drives from Anglesey to Devon and back. So long hills and fast roads. All good. fingers crossed (LR paranoia is ever present).
The whole problem seems to have its roots in the missing head to block locating peg which was for whatever reason omitted at the factory. I find it amazing that it lasted 184k miles to be honest. Total works completed to resolve this issue;
New Water pump New Hoses New Thermostat Coolant system flush and coolant Head off, pressure tested, skimmed and refitted. All is good. Next on the list is the fitting of a few new items and repairing a few old ones that I have been meaning to do for ages. Have to say I am so excited about the first one, I had been wanting this for many years. Massive thanks to Brendan and Barbara at 4x4Overlaner.com (www.4x4overlander.com) for getting the MadMan gauge and fitting kit to me before the Christmas break. There is nothing quite as good as a Christmas present to yourself   To be honest I bought a Mud dash pod for this gauge 12 months ago intending to fit it earlier this year, so it will be great to get a gauge in position rather than just a blank pod. The ultimate reason for choosing the MadMan gauge is just the sheer number of functions it has. I have toyed around all year with MadMan versus individual gauges but think this is the answer. The functions I a most looking forward to are the EGT and oil pressure.
The second is a set of bumper mounted DRL lights that I have fallen a tad in love with as they can be retro-fitted to my Mantec winch bumper (or any standard LR bumper for that matter). I have not decided yet if I am going to set these up as DRLs or as front fog lights. Regardless, the fitting system is superb and I think it will they will fit the look of the vehicle perfectly. So the Christmas break Miffy List looks like this;
Fit bumper DRL lights Replace front washer jets Check non functioning heated mirrors Fit check Temp gauge (has been hanging loose for 12 months) Check headlight loom as it melted a relay last week (standard H4 bulbs are so dim) Re-adjust Slickshift post gearbox change Replace R380 oil (oil dependant) Steering lock stops post tyre change Nipple greasing... Apparently if I am not finished by Christmas lunch there may not be any presents...  |
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23rd Dec 2017 9:53pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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These are the bumper mounted DRL lights I referred to in the above post;
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Should look great on the front end and hopefully folks will see me better as well. You can get them in silver too at a cost of £100 or so. Seller is GRP4x4 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defe...Sw-u1Zekn6 - Super guys to deal with and great comms. |
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23rd Dec 2017 10:03pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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This is the MadMan gauge and TD5 sensor kit; on festive paper too
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge It is a marvellously comprehensive kit, only negative is the lack of printed instructions included. These are available on the MadMan website and there are plenty of forum threads on the kit too. The only thing that i will not be using is the exhaust manifold adapter plate as I have pre-drilled and tapped the Allisport manifold I have fitted. Apart from that, very very excited about this... |
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23rd Dec 2017 10:11pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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A little help please people...
Here we have the sensors for the Madman gauge (TD5 kit). The transfer box, coolant and EGT are easy enough to put in order, the oil pressure kit however is proving to be a little more problematic... Click image to enlarge I get that the VDO pressure sensor goes in to one of the female holes in the T-piece. It looks as if the male-male adapter fits in to the female end of the braided extension pipe. Click image to enlarge But then which end of the pipe goes in to the hole vacated by the LR oil sensor? And surely then this would leave a male tapered thread left open on the T-piece... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Help?! |
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24th Dec 2017 4:20pm |
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| shropshiredefender Member Since: 05 Jun 2017 Location: Shropshire Posts: 834  
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Usually the male end of the T screws into the engine block where the OE pressure sensor was fitted.
Then the OE sensor screws into the T leaving it in the same relative position for the wiring. Could the new sensor be remotely mounted on the end of the flexible and the male - male adapter is actually a red herring? Pure supposition and logic rather than practical experience |
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24th Dec 2017 4:59pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Hi Shropshiredefender. I think you might be right about the red herring. Flipping irritating not having a fitting guide for this. I like the idea of the T-piece being close to the block to keep things close to the original setup for wiring purposes.
Looking about over forums, folks have a T-piece with three female ports which makes much more sense to me... Click image to enlarge Actually back in the land of Salop for Christmas. Lovely county... |
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24th Dec 2017 10:42pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Well I have not done any of the above yet, having too much fun and quality time over Christmas  
Speaking of Santa. Miffy was lucky enough to get a few items this year; A pari of X-Eng X-Trouser door latches and a pair of Nakatanenga second row window grills to help keep the pup cool during summer. Very happy with these
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge NB: the 3rd LR Santa gift... A jet hose Wife says wash LR more often...  |
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26th Dec 2017 4:50pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Nakatanenga Defender second row door security window vents.
These are beautifully made. I did not know that they also have an integral fly mesh on the inside of the louvred vents, but what a lovely addition. These literally just slot in to the felt runners that the window rides up and down within. The bottom of the vent is a U-shaped channel that the window slides in to. When the vent and window are wound all the way up these are solid and secure. The best way of inserting them is to wind the window all the way down. Insert a bottom corner (both parts of the U-channel) in to the felt groove and then feed the diagonally opposite top corner in to its felt channel. Rotate the vent panel until horizontal. Wind up the window making sure the glass slots in to the U-channel and you are done. Repeat for the other door. It is worth saying that should you need to the windows do still move upon and down and it is possible for the vent to remain in place whilst the window is down. Also, these do fit with Heko wind deflectors as well
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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26th Dec 2017 5:22pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Second job of the day was to replace the front doos strikers with the X-Eng X-trouser replacements. Have to confess I have been waiting for a while to get some of these, so well done Santa...
Do not be mistaken in thinking that these strikers are a carbon copy of the LR original items, they are not. There are a few subtle differences that make these much better. The first is the lack of the plastic centre of the strikers bar. This is the part that always wears badly or dents, pinches or even shatters. The second is that the whilst the overall dimensions are broadly the same the centre bar of the X-Eng version is 3-4mm shorter than the LR item. It then goes that the rest of the metal body of the striker is also similarly shortened. As they say, pictures tell a thousand words; Fitting holes lined up for direct comparison. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Grooves, pinches and steps in the plastic ring of the old catches (white is factory original and clear is OEM) Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Fitting; So for this you will need a Torx 30 star bit and ratchet or other driver. This is essentially a straight swap, although there are a few things to consider;
Secondly, due to LR build tolerances you may find that you require an extra thin white spacer (MWC3148) as I did on the nearside front door. Thirdly, the thick white/clear spacer is hollow and usually orientated so that the hollow surface is mated to the metal base of the LR striker, this will need to be reversed as the X-Eng striker is slightly smaller. Get all your tools and parts on the seat ready and within easy reach.
Simply undo the bottom bolt. Slacken off the top bolt and extract the thin white spacers. With your other hand remove the LR striker, bolt and thick spacer. You will now see the threaded holes of the captive nuts behind the B-pillar. Assemble on the top bolt the X-Eng striker and thick spacer and line up with the top bolts hole, screw in a good number of turns. Insert the bottom bolt and screw in to the captive nut. Retrieve hand from B-pillar... 
Insert thin white spacers. Move whole unit in to the upper position close to the door seal. I find this the best place to begin aligning the striker with the catch. You will find that the actual position is slightly down and rearwards of this initial high and forwards position. Take your time doing this bit and get it right. Get down on you knees so the striker is at eye level and looking at it through the cracked open door check that it aligns with the door catch. The bottom of the strikers cylinder should sit just above the lip at the bottom of the catch. Tighten the striker bolts and test the door closing. Re-adjust until the door closes snug (but not too tight) against the door seal. It will have a nice thud when right. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Snagging a non-shutting door No two LRs are the same, no two doors on a LR are the same... Assuming the above has been followed potential snags would be; Door doesn't close and bangs - This is either due to the striker not being at all or that due to the X-Eng strikers bar being shorter the door catch is colliding with the underside of the pressed metal arm that forms the striker body. Solution - fit another thin white spacer to push the whole striker out by 1mm. Door closes but only latches on the anti-burst catch - The striker is too far back from the door seal. Solution - adjust forwards. Door closes all the way but grinds towards the end - The rear flat bar of the striker is impacting on the catch. You will see a dent in the striker metal. Solution - slacken off bolts and rotate the rear of the striker down a tad without moving the front end. These are all based on a 2003 TD5 Defender. |
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26th Dec 2017 7:21pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Ok so had a good number of hours this afternoon on Miffy. Managed to tick off one or two things off the above list;
MadMan sensors mostly fitted... |
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27th Dec 2017 7:01pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Adjusting steering stops to fit 285/75/16 tyres. It is the usual story that you go up a size of tyre and now at full lock the rub against the radius arms.
I thought I would show you a little trick to make this process a little easier for the DIYer. It also has the benefit that the engine does not have to be running either and you do not scrub your tread. Assuming that you do not have a fully kitted garage with every tool under the sun on hand and the steering stop nuts and bolts are free for adjustment.
Jack up opposite wheel until just clear of the ground. Key in ignition to release steering lock but do not start the engine. Turn wheel full lock. You will notice that the sheet under the wheel allows the wheel on the ground to glide over the ground easily. Continue with the established method of adjusting the steering lock. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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27th Dec 2017 8:39pm |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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I wish my naka vents had the mesh, it must be a new addition as I bought mine a few years back
 Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
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27th Dec 2017 8:53pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Well I feel well special now
It is a good addition I think. I am really surprised how little wind noise there is when they are installed. Dog likes the fresh air too |
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9th Jan 2018 8:16pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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I bought this kit back in December as I think DRLs are a great safety feature that all vehicles should have. Both for being seen and to see, especially in bright low winter sunshine. The kit comprises a 70mm DRL (or fog), fixing kit, wiring for DRL system and a hole saw. The fitting kit is a neat solution and comprises two CNC'd aluminium rings, foam sealing ring and four bolts. The fit is snug and perfectly manufactured to sandwich the light unit. Obviously x2 of everything. The kit comes with a hole saw to fit the lamps and whilst I am always wary of "complimentary" tools, it worked a treat. The hardest part of this install was making sure the two lights were positioned well in the bumper and in my case leaving enough space to fit a second pair at a later date should I want it. Quite like the idea of a pair of fog lamps and a pair of DRL lamps as well. Took a good hour measuring and double, triple checking that the holes would be drilled in the right place. Centre punch the two positions on the bumper. Pilot drill the centre holes to be used as the guide hole for the hole saw. The tricks to using a hole saw is firstly lubrication, use a high torque slow speed drill and thirdly drilling swarf holes. The latter reduces the tendency for the hole saw to chatter and speeds up the cut. Firstly use the hole saw to score the metal, then use a smaller drill to drill out four holes just inside the perimeter of the score line. Swarf will be diverted in to the holes as the hole saw rotates. Lubricate often. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge And then lubricate some more... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge You can see the swarf in the drill holes, worth the extra effort in my opinion... Works well in wood too. Click image to enlarge Perfect, but oily and a little sharp. Break out the files... Click image to enlarge All done. Now for the mounting holes. Using the lamp, mark out the four holes, centre punch and drill out. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The fit inside the bumper; Click image to enlarge And both fitted; Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Next is the wiring which is included in the kit... A job for tomorrow |
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9th Jan 2018 9:32pm |
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