 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Engine, Gearbox & Transfer Box Oil Change |
 
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55   
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Hello SKIP thank you for being so kind as to have taken the time to post this. The thing I find most surprising is that changing the main gearbox oil comes down from 120,000 miles to 12,000 miles with 'heavy' use. That is a factor of ten !!! Now I don't think I qualify for heavy use but I don't think that every 50,000 miles would be unreasonable for a change of gearbox oil. My maintenance schedule I have posted below. This is a work in progress and liable to change as I learn more about how these vehicles work
80,000 Km (50,000 miles) - Check adjust steering box - Check engine and transmission mounting rubbers - Renew transfer box oil - Renew front and rear diff oil - Renew manual gearbox oil 160,000 Km (100,000 miles) - Check adjust steering box - Check engine and transmission mounting rubbers - Renew transfer box oil - Renew front and rear diff oil - Renew manual gearbox oil 200,000 Km (125,000 miles) - Renew engine coolant - Renew ancillary drive belt 240,000 km (150,000 miles) - Check adjust steering box - Check engine and transmission mounting rubbers - Renew transfer box oil - Renew front and rear diff oil - Renew manual gearbox oil Every Month - Wash & pressure wash body/chassis & vacuum under seats and in battery box - Squirt nuts & bolts and suspect areas with corrosion block - Check seats and seatbelts - Check tyre pressure 28 - 38 PSI - Check tyre depth > 3 mm - Check tyres for cracks, cuts, bulges etc - Check handbrake is fully actuated on the third click - Check horn - Check all lamps - Lubricate all hinges and locks - Check coolant level - 50% water / 50% anti freeze - Check windscreen wipers and water reservoirs - Check/top up fluid in power steering reservoir. - Check/top up clutch fluid reservoir - Check/top up brake fluid reservoir - Check/top up fluid in power steering reservoir - Check bolts on heat shield / turbo flange Every 5 000km - Renew engine oil and filter - Replace key fob battery - Check/Clean battery connections and check water level - Inspect Radiator and intercooler hoses for cracks & leaks radiator obstructions and broken fans - Visually check brake servo hose, brake, fuel, clutch pipes, unions and electrical harnesses for chafing, leaks and corrosion - Check condition of drive belts - Empty water from fuel filter - Inspect ambient air sensor - Wheel bearing grease - Grease on prop shaft Every 10 000 Km - Renew engine oil and filter - Replace key fob battery - Check/Clean battery connections and check water level - Inspect Radiator and intercooler hoses for cracks & leaks radiator obstructions and broken fans - Visually check brake servo hose, brake, fuel, clutch pipes, unions and electrical harnesses for chafing, leaks and corrosion - Check condition of drive belts - Inspect brake pads for wear + calipers discs. - Wheel bearing grease - Inspect speed sensors for possible damage - Inspect ambient air sensor - Replace Fuel Filter - Replace Air Filter - Grease on prop shaft - Check and top up transfer box oil - Check and top up the front and rear axle oil and clean drain plug - Check for free play in propeller shift universal/sliding joints and lubricate sliding joints - Check for fluid leaks from power steering and suspension systems hydraulic pipes and unions for chafing and corrosion - Check for fluid leaks from Engine, Gearbox, Transfer box and axles - Check exhaust system for leaks, security and damage - Check/tighten steering box and front and rear axles suspension fixings - Check steering rod ball joint fixings and condition of ball joints and dust covers - Check shock absorbers for leakage and damage - Check/tighten front and rear axle suspension link fixings, check condition of mounting rubbers - Check security of towing bracket - Road test / unusual noises Every 20 000 Km - Replace brake fluid and bleed brakes |
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14th Sep 2015 3:01pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295  
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Hello Charlie Spitfire
Well what can I say...you should go into business offering First Class Defender Servicing... 
I agree there is potentially a wide variation on oil life expectancy, personally I think All the Transmission Oils should be changed more regularly than advised, for relatively little money (compared to a major component failure) why not reduce these... 
50,000 Miles for the Gearbox sounds OK. I did my last Defender Gearbox at 12,000 then 60,000, same for the Differentials. Each to their own but you look to have most things covered really well... 
 SKIP
https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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14th Sep 2015 5:11pm |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 237  
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Hi ya - thanks for comments
My Def is almost on 18,000 miles so due for engine oil change which is being done every 6000 miles Was contemplating doing the Diffs and transfer box at 18,000 miles and going to use Fuchs Titan Race Syn 5 as recommended by Opie, Not sure whether to do the gearbox - is 18,000 miles to soon to change the oil - if I do going to use Castrol Syntrans again as recommended by Opie - they advised Fuchs Titan was to slippy and would not slow the synchros down enough for smooth gear change I don't trust LR dealerships to check oils etc as my wifes Evoque during last two services was over filled by quite a bit, my Def last service was under filled by 3/4 litre, so If do the diff, gearbox transfer box this way I know the oil levels are all right Am I wasting time and money at 18000 miles or wait a bit longer - only drive dirt tracks (foresty) and A / B roads no towing but do use a heavy foot (average 22mpg since new) Thanks |
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14th Sep 2015 5:35pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hello Iktank
It depends... I'm more old school on 'Mechanicals', trained as an Engineer then Industrial Designer, and remember not so long ago that almost any new Machine came with the advice to change the Oil(s) initially at a very early stage, then stay on the recommended service intervals. My BMW RS1100 Engine Oil change is every 6,000 miles 9,700 kms, but it went in for its first change as the dealer requested 'anywhere between 1,000 and 1,500 miles'....then again at 6...12...18 etc The thinking is all new vehicles 'bed in' and loosen up, and the worn metal composition within the Oils is relatively high early on, and so best remove this. The current advice is that this 'old school' approach is now not necessary...in effect don't bother, Engines, Mechanicals and Oils are much better. But I have never drained any Oil form any part and thought, you know that looks OK maybe I should have left it a bit longer... 
I know there is some evidence that over servicing...changing the Oil, more frequently than the manufactures OCI (Oil Change Interval) can lead to problems because new Oil has a 'boil-off' phase as initially it has a higher volatility during the first 2,000 miles 3000 kms after an oil change. The volatility reduces and the Oil stabilises, resulting in less 'contamination' of the engine and associated parts. So as with everything, judge what you want to do, I do an early change, then stay at roughly 50% of the recommended Land Rover distances. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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14th Sep 2015 6:51pm |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720 
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Thought I would share my recent engine oil change experience as it was a bit different from MartinK's instructions for the 2.4 Pumas.
Mine is a MY2015 2.2 Puma and I am entirely new to any car DIY, so the below should help any newbies with the more recent models and save some time. Materials needed: - 7l of engine oil Ford M2C-934B - http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-1300-ford-wss-...e-oil.aspx (I went with the Fuchs Titan GT1 and very happy with the result, my fuel economy improved quite a bit; order one big bottle, e.g. 4l and few small ones, e.g. 1l) - The 2.2 from VIN No. DA444247 have the canister filter LR058104 (Not the plastic dome with a 27mm hex on the bottom; for which I got the filter initially...) - Oil drain plug (with built in O-ring) L1013938 (No need to look for new o-rings, it's built in within the new plug) Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Tools needed: - Torque wrench that can be set to 23nm (for the drain plug and also ) - 13mm hex socket (for the drain plug) - Plastic scraper (to remove old drain plug o-ring, most likely will stay stuck to the oil sump pan) - Oil filter removal wrench (for the canister filter; i.e. you won't need the 27mm socket for the plastic dome type) - 250mm 10-inch 3/8-inch extension bar drive (the filter is recessed so will be easier to get to when removing) - 2 oil drain pans (I got two 6 liter ones) - Funnel (to pour in the new oil; sounds obvious, but I banged my head against the wall as I could fine none at home and neither had a plastic bottle that would help) - Paper towels to wipe the surfaces clean - Dust sheets to protect the floor, newspapers to mop any spills, bin bags for all the waste. Btw, this is the oil removal wrench I got, and it worked well:
Process: Identical to MartinK's, just few alternations. Instead of pointing them out, all the steps below. - Warm up the engine for few minutes - Open the oil lid in the engine area to let the pressure out - Slowly unscrew the oil sump plug (using 13mm hex socket) and move the oil drain pan a bit further out as the oil will come out under pressure and will not pour out directly below the sump pan - As the sump empties itself, you will need to move the oil drain pan closer to the sump pan - Once the sump empties itself, remove the old o-ring and wipe the sump clean - Remove the filter canister (oil filter removal wrench) and let the oil drain first before removing entirely - Wipe clean the filter housing once the filter is removed - Fill in the new filter with some oil and smear the o-ring with new oil too - Attach the new filter to the engine housing, no wrench needed, these spin on canisters are supposed to be fixed just by hands - Fix the new oil oil drain plug to the sump - Pour in around 6l of new oil using a funnel, the dipstick will be close to min mark - Start the engine and let run for couple minutes - Stop the engine and let it settle - Check the dipstick and slowly add more oil while checking every time you pour in some more until you are close to the max mark - Clean up your mess and you're done. Since I'm useless, it took me hour and a half, but I am aiming for MartinK's half an hour 
And I almost forgot to mention that I have only managed thanks to SKIP's constant support via email, PMs, phone  A true gentleman, thanks a million! |
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28th Sep 2015 4:56pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7987  
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Did you get an answer to this one or does anyone know? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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12th Nov 2015 10:30pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7987
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i did see another post on here suggesting 3mm below the level filler was the correct height but not had that verified.
to counter that, the puma in today had 3.6L of gbox oil in it instead of the 2.2L! Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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3rd Dec 2015 8:52pm |
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| lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 209 
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Very useful post but a word of warning...........I thought I was ready for the oil spurting out when I removed the plug but
not as ready as I thought. The 'Gusher' proceeded to cover my hands, head (black and white minstrel comes to mind) and driveway as it shot past my dish. what fun....
It's hard to wriggle out of the way when you're lying on your back.......ha, ha The torque settings were useful, cheers. We live and learn. Anyone know how to get oil off a concrete driveway? |
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13th Feb 2016 10:50am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7987
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any engine cleaner will do it or steam washer Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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13th Feb 2016 7:48pm |
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| lonewolf Member Since: 23 Oct 2013 Location: North East England Posts: 209
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Cheers jst, I used a cheapo bottle of cola and a scrubbing brush, not a bad result really, only a slight mark left
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14th Feb 2016 6:55pm |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 237
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AAARRRGGGHHHH - thats for the cuts to my knuckles
Do my engine oil every 6000 miles and had been meaning since 18000miles to drop all the other oils, now on 21000 and changed them all today 
- Front diff oil, slightly low - filled with Fuchs Titan Race Syn 5 75w-90 - Rear diff oil, level was ok - filled with Fuchs Titan Race Syn 5 75w-90 - Transfer box, only drained 1.9 ltrs out, refilled with 2.3ltrs Fuchs Titan Race Syn 5 75w-90 - Gearbox oil, drained out 2.4ltr so 2.4ltr went back in as per the book, refilled with Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75w-90, GL4 Really do not want to do the gearbox again in hurry, no ramps just shimmied under the vehicle really glad I had 1ltr pump to put new oil back in 1st to 2nd gear change had gone bit notchy lately and has now been greatly improved with the new oil I am also getting a whine on overrun decelerating from 70mph, have to wait till Monday to see if this has gone Also change my motorbike engine oil Def time for a beer and feet up  |
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23rd Apr 2016 4:11pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Just done Diff, Engine and gearbox on a 2.4L puma - transfer next week when the oil arrives.
Engine only delivered 5L when I drained it - it's a lot quieter now, suspect less void for sound to rattle around in
So here's me digging up my 1/2" torx bits to find a T50 but when I get under both plugs take 8mm hex - first time I've had to use an Allen key on the machine ! Diffs are a piece of p  s, gearbox is awkward, had to use a bottle jack and a rod on the key to get the fill plug started. Engine oil came out a lot faster than expected, right towards my face actually, dodge and clean required
I decided to do the lot as it's a new machine to me - who knows what service wasn't done in the past ... Thanks to the OP and the forum for the tips |
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27th Apr 2016 5:10am |
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| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1314 
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Big thanks to the OP and other contributions.
The hints and tips made changing all my oils hassle free. My MY12 also has 8mm hex drain & fill plugs on the gearbox. I found the easiest way to remove and replace the transfer box fill plug was to use a 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor in the plug and then a long 3/8" drive extension to get past the handbrake drum. The slightly narrower diameter of the 3/8" extension made it easier to undo the plug. I did the gearbox using a pressurised filler that I got cheap off fleebay. It uses an air line at low pressure, so no manual pumping. To make sure I got the correct 2.2 litres, I put 3 litres in the filler, primed the filler pipe, then measured out 2.2 litres. After this I marked the oil level on the side of the pressure vessel and poured the measured 2.2 litres back into the tank. Put the hooked end in the gearbox filler hole and let the oil flow until the level on the vessel reached my mark. I then added a touch more just to be sure I was slightly over 2.2 litres. Once again, big thanks for the info. |
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11th Jun 2016 1:46pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4194 
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I've done all my oils now with thread for reference
Things of note? Mann oil filters don't fit properly, to big a ore in the centre for my liking. Used a genuine Ford one in the end. My gearbox had a T50 torx fill plug, badly mangled by someone else, but an 8mm hex for the drain. Transfer case fill plug was tricky to get out, as above I used 1/2" to 3/8" adapter then a long 3/8 extension. It's still a bit awkward but not too bad. For filling axles and gearboxes I used a 1litre Draper manual oil pump. Slow going but no mess. |
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16th Jul 2016 6:49pm |
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