 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Engine, Gearbox & Transfer Box Oil Change |
 
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| Bravemeister Member Since: 28 Apr 2015 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 12   
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There is a sticky on defeder2.net for what ouls to use and what quantities
You can also go on the comma oils website, type your reg in and it will tell you exactly what you need and how much. I notice you havent included the t/f box..? Why change others and not that..? |
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16th Jul 2015 12:23pm |
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| DaveGL Member Since: 19 Dec 2014 Location: Surrey Posts: 57 
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The transfer box was done a while ago when a leak was being investigated.
Is this not the sticky thread you refer to? I ended up getting advice from advanced factors and opie oils. Thanks |
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16th Jul 2015 12:28pm |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720 
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Thanks for this post Martin, really helpful for someone who’s brand new to car DIY. So I combined your instructions for a Puma 2.4 with my newly purchased Haynes manual for TD5 and off to dig into my Puma 2.2
 Really hoping I won’t make a mess of it!
Oil and filter ordered now from Tim (Oilman) along with a torque wrench, set of extension bars, 13 and 27 sockets and set of oil drip pans. Should all arrive tomorrow so with just under 4.5k on the clock she should have her oil changed this weekend if all goes well. I have two questions, most likely extremely silly ones to all of you seasoned DIY chaps. The torque wrench I ordered starts with 28nm (I struggled to find one which would start with a lower torque for a sensible price, well sensible to me) and Martin’s recommendation for the oil drain plug is 23nm. I’m worried that if I just use my feeling for when it’s tightened properly, it will leak, considering my utter lack of experience. So am I running a risk of damaging the plug if I tighten it up using the 28nm setting? Secondly, where do you dispose of the old oil? I figured I can’t just dump it in the bin or pour it down the drain obviously. Do you just use your local recycling centre? I’m guessing they should accept it - called the council, they were ‘helpful’ as always, so just wondering what the experience here is on the forum. Last edited by jk84 on 10th Sep 2015 12:33pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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10th Sep 2015 10:09am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello jk84
Q.1 Your Minimum 28NM Torque Wrench Setting to tighten the Oil Drain Plug (13mm / JLR Spec' 23NM) will be OK. My reasoning is this is a Steel Bolt into a Steel Sump with a good thread depth. Fit a new Rubber Drain Plug Seal, which will also 'cushion' the tightening of this. +5NM is a relatively small additional amount of force to apply to this situation. I would also hazard a guess that the majority of Drain Plugs are replaced and 'nipped tight' without ever seeing a Torgue Wrench, the 'mechanic' that taught me (first car) always said don't talk about it 'feel it' when a reference to Torque setting was mentioned, in truth its good to follow these where possible, and certain bearings a shafts should be spot on. The Sump Plug is a very safe one to be 'more or less' right. If you are worried and have access to a vice, clamp your 13mm socket, (or a M13 Bolt), so that it wont move 'feel' what 28NM is like when the Torque Wrench 'clicks' and then go straight to the Drain Plug and apply slightly less force, not scientific, but it will help you judge when to stop just short of 28NM. Run Engine until Oil is warm and check for leaks (both Sump Plug and Oil Filter Cup / Housing)...tighten slightly if required. Q.2 Yes take your old Engine Oil to a recycling centre, phone first to check, but most now take this. Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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10th Sep 2015 12:30pm |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720
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Excellent, thanks much as always SKIP, really appreciated
 A bit nerve-wrecking when doing these things for the first time so every little helps  |
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10th Sep 2015 12:35pm |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3644 
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don't buy a brit part sump plug total rubbish DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,
I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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10th Sep 2015 6:02pm |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720
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Thank you sir. Actually, will leave the plug replacement for later, forgot about it. Hope it won't leak reusing the old one. Well, and if it does, will get a new one - no Brit Part
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10th Sep 2015 10:44pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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Hello jk84,
LR90XS2011 has a point...sorry to point you back to the Drain Plug. Whilst I'm not against all Britpart's OEM Drain Plugs... 
The main point is to defiantly replace the Drain Plug or actually to be more precise the rubber seal I don't think Land Rover sell the seals separately, some independents do, but the whole thing is <£10 from memory. You cant replace this later, as you say, without draining all the oil....which should never be put back into the vehicle...however clean an 'operation' you may try to execute, (any grit is really bad). When you remove the drain plug you disturb the rubber washer and they are designed to be tightened up once from a near perfect round condition to a compressed seal, this will sit in a new position if reused and may leak. The most expensive aspect of doing DIY is your time, followed by the oil in this case, my advice is change the drain plug (bolt and washer). Some vehicles use copper washers as seals and whilst they can be reused (by tightening them up a bit tighter) the advice there is also to replace, these are a few pence only, so really no excuse not to other than a lazy mechanic!. DIY Oil Change...pleased you started this ? SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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11th Sep 2015 8:40am |
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| tonyhedge Member Since: 07 Jul 2015 Location: Worcestershire Posts: 101 
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jk84 asked "Secondly, where do you dispose of the old oil?"
Hi. Wherever I have lived, the local council recycling centre has had a big tank for taking waste oil, and are usually really helpful. That's not a dent, it's a rivet. That's not a dent, it's a rivet. That's not ... oh! That is a dent! 2014 90 XS SW 1997 Discovery 300TdiS (retired to stud) 1966 Series IIA 88" (now my son's) 2001 Astra - I need something to go and buy the parts when the others are off the road! |
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11th Sep 2015 8:52am |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720
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@ SKIP – very pleased indeed
 It became a journey, but I can see the light now. I will get a new plug and seal as recommended! Individually available OEM part though seems to be a needle in a haystack – it looks to be only sold within a service pack (which I don’t need as I got the filter now). On its own I have only found the aftermarket Britpart one (http://www.paddockspares.com/1013938-oil-drain-plug-and-rubber-seal.html) and then the copper washer which according to web is for pre 2006 trucks (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-213961A). I’m trying to get hold of my local dealer’s parts department and maybe will be able to buy couple pieces from them, will need them in the future anyway. Or last resort will be giving Dan at Duckworth a call. Otherwise, I’ll go for the aftermarket Britpart one this time and then will get OEM service pack for the next 6k oil change, i.e. filter along with the plug and washers.
@ tonyhedge – thanks for that! Will refill the empty bottles from the new oil with the used one, luckily got a big one and couple 1 litre ones so should be easy to keep any spare new oil separate. And then take it down to the recycling centre trying to be as nice as possible so they’ll take it |
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11th Sep 2015 11:02am |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720
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My local dealer seems to have these in stock, only couple quid a piece, so I may still be able to do the oil change tomorrow as planned
In the end have found the OEM part on ebay too, not sure if it includes the washer though. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DEFENDER-2007-to...4cf30b90de |
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11th Sep 2015 2:19pm |
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| Charlie Spitfire Member Since: 16 May 2015 Location: Chartres Posts: 55  
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First of all thank you very much for an excellent thread. I have just ordered my oils and I feel suitably well informed to tackle this task myself. My local dealer charges 800 euros (600 sterling) to change the fluids. So I have probably saved enough to buy some LED headlamps for the winter !!! I have one question though. Gearbox oil. Is there any need to change this at 100,000 km when the manual says change it at 200,000 km?
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12th Sep 2015 12:18pm |
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| Iktank Member Since: 08 Nov 2014 Location: Porthcawl Posts: 237  
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Advice please
I know what the service book says but what is a realistic service regime for dropping the oils to the - Diffs - Gearbox - Transfer box I have been changing the engine oil every 6,000 Thanks |
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13th Sep 2015 3:40pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295
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When to change the Oils...
Minimum when Land Rover say, ref Workshop Manual / Maintenance Check Sheet... 
Best Practice when it needs it...
This will depend on how your vehicle is used, and if pushed hard, or used in tough environments then everything will need more attention. This is what the Maintenance Check Sheet for a 2.4tdci says Service intervals between A and B 12,000 Miles (all distances given in Miles) 
Click image to enlarge SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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14th Sep 2015 8:51am |
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