 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > caterhams LAST problem! |
 
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300   
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May well have been. Could have been the switch sticking?
Anyway....100+ miles this am and all is good 
Seized piston and then a blown O ring.....perhaps I don't know.? Whether it's related or not would be interested to know what the link is between the abs and ecm - what does it do etc? |
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12th Jan 2015 7:42am |
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but happy.
??| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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Pulling to one side was only v obvious after leak.
As you say you'd expect the brake to b red hot which it wasn’t...that said the droning sound typical of binding hand brake has also gone? Munch90 - fetish perhaps....certainly the wife would likely agree. Last edited by Caterham on 12th Jan 2015 11:29am. Edited 1 time in total |
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12th Jan 2015 8:12am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471  
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A change of topic title is a damned good idea! Doing so may prevent the reeling in of newbies under false pretenses and thus stop them catching the same virus that causes the kind of paranoid and endless quests for non existent faults and resulting clueless conjecture and blind tinkering as demonstrated in dozens of threads by poor old Wayne.
Now, can a splash of mud on the rear door card cause my indicators to turn into amber coloured Easter Bunnies? Steve. Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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12th Jan 2015 10:29am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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Should I check for bunnies or the rear door card first?  |
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12th Jan 2015 12:19pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 
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Don't know but I would get a fox on order first Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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12th Jan 2015 1:19pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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Clearly a fox is needed as my 100+ miles home weren't 'perfect '
 first 90 miles were 
I think I need to speak to Steve but I'm worried he'll be fed up and suggest I go get a crate of easter Eggs? |
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12th Jan 2015 6:52pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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Steve,
you mentioned about the hi/lo not being fully engaged the other week while I was messing with handbrake drum and props and it was at that time as it popped out of hi into neutral. did 90 miles yesterday on return home and was perfect, c 50+ miles on the motorway and perfect doing about 50 - 55 mph. then almost home and due to traffic I came to a stand still. as it started moving again I pulled off in 2nd as I often do but rather than a smooth pulling away 'klonk'!. similar to what you suggested with the hi/lo not being fully engaged and not being able to do a smooth gear change no matter how hard you try? so if this is down to the hi/lo not sure how I can engage anymore than it already was? if it's not the hi/lo then what else might cause that, a sticking handbrake? checked hand brake when home and it's was just mildly warm (no more than gearbox so I don't think its that? please don't suggest adding cream eggs to the fuel tank which should float and keep the fuel mixture from separating 
oh and again this morning it's clattering? |
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13th Jan 2015 7:55am |
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471
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Round and round it goes, where it ends nobody knows
If the transmission brake drum was warm and not red hot then it's not binding. I think you said you had tinkered with the transfer box linkage so I'm not sure what state of affairs that is in now but you could try selecting low range, drive it for a few yards then select high. Ever heard of the A frame ball-joint, there's something else for you to wonder and worry about Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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13th Jan 2015 8:06am |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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round and round.....that reminds me my 'handle' used to be Zebedee back in the 80's
not going to worry about the A frame ball joint until I've done some research into what part of it I need to worry about.
in terms of the messing I did with the transfer box all I did was lengthen the linkage rod by a few mill. I might try extending by a few more and then 'wind' it back the other way to see if this helps or not. back to the A frame was that mere a joke or are you suggesting I check out the bushes to see if that's where the 'clatter / knocking' is coming from. As you mentioned with the hi/lo and not getting a smooth gear change ... to my mind its as though there's no play in the clutch just a harsh on / off type effect and no give? |
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13th Jan 2015 8:21am |
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| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6769 
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SELL THE DEFENDER !!! If you do sell I'm sure your life expectancy will be much longer
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13th Jan 2015 6:04pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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There was a time when I would have fully agreed however I actually don't get very frustrated with it anymore.
It's mostly great. Not wanting to be seen to be moaning and to avoid any one moaning about Me generating ANOTHER thread I wonder if someone can explain the strategy I noted coming home today while slowing down the idle speed was c900 rpm (looks like 1000 on dial) and when you one to a study still the idle drops to c800 rpm (looks like 750 on dial)? |
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13th Jan 2015 6:18pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
The idle speed remains high until you stop to ensure you have enough eleky coming from the alternator and enough vacuum to keep the brakes on,remains high momentarily when fully stopped then drops to normal.Reverse happens when you switch the air con, lights, heater,etc. on,idle drops for a second before picking the revs up. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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13th Jan 2015 9:25pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Yeah, Defenders have "character",which usually means the opposite of reliability,lol. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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13th Jan 2015 9:30pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6300
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Jimbob7 - very interesting.
Thanks.
...and yes.  |
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13th Jan 2015 9:39pm |
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