 | Home > My Defender > Overland 110 Build from the Ground Up! |
 
|
|
|
| Venomator Member Since: 25 Aug 2014 Location: Peterborough Posts: 2087  
|
Absolutely bloody brilliant Rob, thanks for sharing the detail and awesome iMages...
That's all...   Rog...
The GREEN One... MY2016 Urban Truck Build Thread - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40548....al[/color] |
||
15th Oct 2014 12:04pm |
|
| Pickles Member Since: 26 May 2013 Location: Melbourne Posts: 3781  
|
A very good machine indeed.
Where did you source the ARB, & did you fit a front one as well? Pickles. |
||
|
15th Oct 2014 10:36pm |
|
| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69 
|
Hi Pickles
Yes I got both front and rear. I sourced them from this company in the UK and brought them back as luggage to Aus, got a few funny looks as you can imagine: http://extreme4x4.co.uk/acatalog/ANTI_ROLL_BAR_KITS.html They also do a 28mm diameter version but they only recommend that for track use! (In a Defender...haha). Both front and rear have transformed the handling I must say, but then as I said earlier on in the thread the truck is now a little more top heavy than a standard Defender. I do however remove both anti roll bars currently when I go off-roading to make sure I get the most out of my axle articulation. Cheers Rob Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland Series 1 86" |
||
|
15th Oct 2014 10:47pm |
|
| chewy7 Member Since: 19 May 2013 Location: Brisbane, Australia Posts: 34
|
What an absolutely epic build thread!!!! Well done mate!!
I'm in the same rebuild process (although no where near the same extent, on a 110 puma that rolled). So much inspiration! And many many great ideas! I wish i had the skill to fold metal and make new body panels like that! Again well done !! |
||
|
17th Oct 2014 1:32pm |
|
| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
|
Hi Rob
.... just keep it coming
absolutely top thread from day one. Thanks. SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
||
|
17th Oct 2014 2:22pm |
|
| PCA42 Member Since: 15 Jun 2014 Location: Church Stretton Posts: 468  
|
What a fantastic read! That really is one special Defender, absolutely stunning, very well done
Pete
2010 Discovery 4 GS TDV6 1972 Series III 88" 2.25P |
||
|
17th Oct 2014 5:54pm |
|
| gilarion Member Since: 05 Dec 2013 Location: Wales Posts: 5109  
|
Brilliant really enjoyed the photos
|
||
|
18th Oct 2014 12:01pm |
|
| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69
|
So earlier on I mentioned that I had, had a few teething troubles or mishaps with the truck. The following is an odd water pump issue that I encountered.
While doing a general crawl around under the vehicle before a trip out I noticed that there appeared to be a slight weep coming from one of the three long bolts of the eight that hold the water pump in place. Here is a picture of the leak, if you look really closely you can see what appears to be a crack across the casting strengthening rib on the pump itself:  Click image to enlarge Here is the crack viewed with some dye-penetrant crack detection ink: Click image to enlarge And the crack from the inside: Click image to enlarge So, I put this down to maybe a dodgy casting on the water-pump (it was a genuine Land Rover parts one mind). I bought another one a fitted it with the new gasket. The same thing happened again. The old and the new: Click image to enlarge I should point out that each time the pump was changed a new P-gasket was also fitted as a precaution. After buying another water pump and a couple of water pump gaskets from different parts suppliers here in Australia it became apparent that depending on who manufactured the gasket, they seemed to be different thicknesses. Suffice to say, the second new pump cracked as well. I was torquing the pump bolts up to the correct amount as per the workshop manual, so I was a little perplexed by what was going on. In the end I bought a new water-pump/alternator/PAS pump casting, part number ERR3736. I suspected that my old casting may have been warped (I used a straight edge across the face to verify this). I decided to assemble the water-pump with RTV gasket instead of the Land Rover supplied paper gasket. I did this because I figured the "give" in the paper gasket was being compressed when the bolts were being torqued up and the water pump casting couldn't take the stress that was being imposed on it in the strengthening lug location. Here is it all assembled with yet another new pump, this time I also replaced the three long water pump retaining bolts as well as a precaution (even though my ones were almost brand new): Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The above fix has been on now for almost 6 months and has been completely watertight, so I seem to have got it figured it out. Like I said at the beginning, this was an odd one for me; I have owned a few 300Tdi's and I have never come across this before. Rob Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland
Series 1 86" |
||
|
19th Oct 2014 4:21am |
|
| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69
|
Next was the starter motor, this was the only ancillary on the engine that I didn't replace when I was building it up from the Turner Engineering long block. The starter was "clicking" when the key was turned, so I suspected a worn out or sticky solenoid. Rather than mess about with taking the old one out and stripping it down I elected to replace the whole unit with one of these starter motors:
http://www.amp-starters.co.uk/product.asp?...re+Details Here is the new and the old: Click image to enlarge The new starter has been faultless and true the websites word, it really spins the 300Tdi over at a faster pace. and draws less amps. Overall a really nicely engineered piece of kit. I highly recommend it if your starter is getting a bit old. Rob Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland
Series 1 86" |
||
|
19th Oct 2014 5:00am |
|
| Defender_Td5 Member Since: 20 Jul 2009 Location: Devon/Australia Posts: 69
|
Recently the truck has been pressed into service helping a friend move house, who knew there was so much room in a 110 with the seats rolled forward and dog guard removed:
Click image to enlarge Hooked up to my buddy's trailer: Click image to enlarge I have also purchased a "Madman EMS1", this handy little unit connects to various sensors around the engine to monitor its state. It's not fitted yet but mine will be set up to measure: EGT Turbo Boost Pressure Engine Oil Pressure Engine Oil Temperature Coolant Temperature Radiator header tank water level Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I had to remove the under-seat air receiver tank due to fitting a 65L sill fuel tank, I have been trying to decide where to relocate the tank. I also have a WARN air compressor that I would like to fit as well. Trouble is I really can't currently decide where to place them both, here is me trying out a the rear tub as a new location. I would ideally like to make the compressor unit removable: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Got my four Lightforce 170 Lamps wired up, the centre two have spot filters on them and the outside two have flood filters on them: Click image to enlarge After a good clean (not)!: Click image to enlarge Cheers Rob Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Defender 300Tdi 110 Utility Wagon ROW Overland
Series 1 86" |
||
|
19th Oct 2014 7:31am |
|
| D922MAT Member Since: 19 Sep 2013 Location: uk Posts: 61 
|
Hi
I am building my td5 110 crewcab from the grand up. I have puchased a tdci rear tub an i noticed on your build you have fitted the the correct brackets on two the crossmember were the exhaust hanger sits to fit the later tdci seats. my question how did you get these to fit. Did you cut the cross member or did you use a tap an die set. Im just trying to work out the best way round to fit these on two the chassie. If you could help me on this it would be graet. Many thanks Matthew |
||
|
28th Oct 2014 1:41pm |
|
| Maml Member Since: 28 Jun 2014 Location: KZN Posts: 20 
|
Wow!
Can't read this whole thread without making a comment - truly awesome stuff! Well done & thank you for sharing! |
||
|
12th Nov 2014 12:37pm |
|
| Ellisboy Member Since: 13 Oct 2013 Location: Deep South Posts: 539 
|
Excellent thread, and thanks for the starter motor link! I need to get a new one soon.
|
||
|
12th Nov 2014 1:00pm |
|
| Robin Gale Member Since: 08 Apr 2011 Location: Southend, Essex Posts: 3 |
What an amazing read, on a rainy sunday afternoon.
I can only wish i had the time, money, space and most importantly the 'know how' to do something similar. My 110 is now 12 years old and is showing signs of ageing and really would benefit of a re build. Im really please to see an other defender in Aus, when I visited last rear it was a true rare sight to see one. All the best. Robin |
||
|
16th Nov 2014 12:43pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
