 | Home > Technical > Webasto Airtop 2000s |
 
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| VeeTee Member Since: 06 Mar 2011 Location: Somewhere Posts: 1512  
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I have one installed in under the (front) passenger seat. Works perfect, controlled by a Timer Thermostat Control unit.
&feature=share&list=UUtuVkrOm07GRugoBZ0pgyew Indeed it is easy to use any kind of control unit to start the heater: Just put 12V on pin 7 of the webasto pin connection  Click image to enlarge This is the timer control: Click image to enlarge Th black wire (pin 6 from the timer wiring harness) puts 12V on pin 7 on the connector A on the heater I have some installation manuals available on my website: http://www.zee-rover.nl/download/ http://www.zee-rover.nl/downloads/7-DayDig...lation.pdf http://www.zee-rover.nl/downloads/Airtop2000Install.pdf Hope this helps, happy heating  Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold) 1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold) 1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold) 1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold) 2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold) 2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold) MySite |
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8th Oct 2012 10:06pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8029  
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Hi Simon, yes am getting too soft!
VeeTee - thank you, Pin 7 rather than 3 looks to be the one. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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9th Oct 2012 6:36am |
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| TJ101 Member Since: 30 May 2007 Location: Taunton Somerset Posts: 3750  
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James
Sure that is the unit we have in the rally van ? ? Come and see it working California F1, 75th 110 "Kermit", 50th Ann V8, 90 V8 Hybrid, 55 Series 1 Main Brian James Trailer Dealer for South West UK |
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9th Oct 2012 7:35am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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Jst,
the pin layout i mention is of the webasto remote unit, the on/of signal goes indeed to pin 7 on the heater as illustrated by VeeTee. |
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9th Oct 2012 8:23am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8029
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thank you guys
now just some time to fit it! Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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9th Oct 2012 10:03am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8029
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had a spare few hours this morning - not enough to finish it though, unit is in (under rear seats behind drivers seat) all plumbed and wired up less the actual mounting of the std switch.
bl**y H*ll they are hot! very impressed, very quick to produce alot of heat! not got as far as trying to connect in the telestart yet (its a T70) will work through that one later. thank you for all the pointers. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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10th Oct 2012 3:55pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8029
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if i put a straight 12v feed to pin 7 on the airtop and it fires up how does it know what temp to try and get to or will it just run at max until the 12v is removed? Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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10th Oct 2012 4:03pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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you'll enjoy it even more when temps really drop Started up mine in the last days and was surprised again how hot they actually are. Remember that when using the remote you'll burn on "minimum" (with rheostat connected that is), which makes it all more civilized. Never had to use more than 1/4 settings in normal operation. Guess a defender is on the small side for their power. Just throwing in another point. On this minimum setting you might be tempted to increase output and reduce the heating time. Be aware that these units do not like short burn cycles, the minimum is perfect to heat up the interior for the standard 45min the remote will keep the burner running. And also, If you wire the main power over a switch. Dont switch off the unit using this switch. It needs to go through a cleanburn/cooling sequence to avoid premature clogging of the burn chamber. Switching off using the remote or the rheostat, so pin 7, only takes away the "go burn" signal and starts the shut-down sequence. Edit: your question you have posted in the mean time. The rheostat defines a reference value. The unit compares this to the ambient air temp (and also hot air temp, but lets keep this out of this as this is more safety related = not to overheat the hot air and damage the housing/electronics) and based on this defines a burn rate. Big difference = high, low difference = low or even go into cycling mode As you dont have the rheostat connected there is no reference value and the burner will go full blast. Now you can still control temperature using a thermostat which puts the 12v on pin 7, you will heat up very fast and then tell the unit to shut off as the thermostat will interrupt the feed to pin 7. Temps will drop (you will notice this) and the thermostat will start up the unit. Again the unit will for short time heat at full blast till thermostat switches off. This is not the right way for several reasons, short cycle times once the initial cabin heat up has happened, no benefit from variable ventilator speed and a big cabin temp difference as the sensors need time to react so you will cycle from too cold to too hot all the time. By putting the rheostat on a comfortable setting the unit will control the process much better and step up / down the burn rate and ventilator speed. This way the temp will be more stable and the heater will have a much easier/longer life. But this comfort setting is variable with outside/inside temps and volume. So it needs time to get the setting right. The only improvement you can make is putting the ambient temp sensor in a better location, there where you are sitting/want to have the right temp. 2cents |
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10th Oct 2012 4:09pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8029
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excellent thank you.
What i was looking to do was keep the rheostat connected to pin 7 as std and then connect the remote to pin 7 as well. ie rheostat off, and use remote to turn burner on, but as you say it will go full chat and max heat which is not good. if i then turn the rheostat on whilst its still working off the remote i guess it will see two 12v signals - ie 24v at Pin 7 = not good. ideally i wish to be able to just run it from the remote when it is off on the rheostat but get it to run at a min setting. then take control of it with the rheostat when in the vehicle without over volting. would welcome another 2cents worth!? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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10th Oct 2012 8:27pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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First of all a remark
This is not the case. Volts don't add up. You can supply the 12V to pin 7 over different "switches" (switch, clock, thermostat, remote) at the same time. As long as one of them is "high" the webasto will keep working. So if you switch on the webasto using the remote and in the mean time your clock also switches on you wont be able to turn it off using the remote. One remark though. Make sure all your "switches" are switching the 12v from the same source (in case you have twin batteries eg) or you might create issues between the batteries/sources. secondly
This is not what i am saying. If the rheostat is connected to the loom and in the off position you will burn on minimum setting. (you were mentioning the rheostat was not connected, which makes the webasto burn on maximum rate all the time, see previous post) If you look at the rheostat you will see it has 4 wires, this is because in the housing you find a rheostat and a switch, all controlled by the same knob you are turning. 2 wires go to the switch which put 12v on pin 7 and 2 wires "create a variable value" from minimum burn rate to maximum burn rate. That is why you can do what you want: control the on/off by multiple "switches" You will however burn at minimum setting with all "switches" other than the rheostat. (which is ok in reality) 2 more cents |
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11th Oct 2012 9:54am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8029
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^^^ all that sounds great and an easy fix, thank you for taking the time to explain it. that is what i will be doing. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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11th Oct 2012 9:08pm |
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| walfy Member Since: 29 Aug 2007 Location: Frome Posts: 2658
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Rather than start a new thread.
I've now sourced a brand new unopened airtop kit with a huge amount of genuine ducting, well enough to plumb my heater into the next car as well  . And it was at such a price he almost paid me to have
I'm looking at mounting an airtop under the second row seats now in my 110. How far forward did you fit your unit? Is the end of the unit flush with the front of the seat or set back? Or is it determined by the way the seat folds up and the space required for that? 110 D250 SE HT 110 USW SOLD RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD |
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18th Aug 2014 6:00pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443  
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With my Eberspacher it was the burner air intake and exhaust that determined the position. Saying that with a 90' outlet blowing the hot air towards the back of the cubby box/back of the front passenger seat from a position of around 2" back from the edge of the 2nd row seat box I can't fault its position.
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18th Aug 2014 7:19pm |
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| walfy Member Since: 29 Aug 2007 Location: Frome Posts: 2658
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Thanks, Will have to have a play around with the position then.
110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD |
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18th Aug 2014 7:31pm |
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