 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Puma Gearstick rattle / vibration cure guide (with photos) |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20455  
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After reading the advice on here about how to cure the Gearstick rattle (in particular 5th. & 6th) I decided to make a little photo guide for others benefit from that have had the same issue.
I've had the Gearstick vibration noise for a long time and never got around to curing it until yesterday. 
1) start removing the gaiter off of the stick by pushing it down:  Click image to enlarge 2) And further until it's off of the stick, note the clips you can see each side that lock over the white part: Click image to enlarge 3) Gently pull these clips back each side both at the same time and the stick should pop out: Click image to enlarge 4) Lift Gearstick up and remove: Click image to enlarge 5) Now you can see the weights (metal) that rattle when in higher gears. Click image to enlarge 6) Now superglue the weights to the body of the stick like so: Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge 7) Note you can see the glue along each edge of each weight, repeat this in all areas: Click image to enlarge 8 ) In my case I left the stick with the glue on for an hour as per its instructions to fully cure: Click image to enlarge Once the hour had passed I refitted then left overnight but it would be cured anyway all the same. Refitting of the stick is just the reverse of above but the gaiter is a bit tricky to get back on and over the stick but not too bad. I did this mod yesterday and tested it today and rattle is gone in 5th and 6th. 
The glue I used isn't specifically required for this job but if you don't already have any I used this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUPERGLUE-SUPER-...5645643c37 Cheap, but it's extremely strong.  I've used it on other items like my EL wire with excellent results.
Apologies in advance for the photo quality, it was a full day and used phone.
Steve No Guts, No Glory. ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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7th Mar 2014 4:56pm |
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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2760
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perfect! cheers steve Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwardsโฆ Daily is a 110 V8. |
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7th Mar 2014 5:00pm |
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| WelshGas Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Vale of Glamorgan Posts: 935  
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It would seem on your gear stick connection there was no grease. On mine it was covered in silicon grease, maybe the dealer as it was an ex-demo and I only got the buzz after a couple of hours continuous running, , so glue would not have worked. I used some small plastic cable ties to secure the weights. Same effect , gear stick buzz gone and it has been 3 years now.
 LANDYWATCH
Neighbourhood Watch for Land Rover Owners http://www.landywatch.co.uk/smf2/index.php |
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7th Mar 2014 5:47pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20455
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There was some grease there, the photos just don't show it properly. No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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7th Mar 2014 5:49pm |
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| GUM97 Member Since: 05 Feb 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3555 
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Nice guide Steve, as usual!
An engine to TDi for!
"Land Rover- Proudly turning drivers into mechanics since 1948" |
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7th Mar 2014 6:30pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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Should be stickied
Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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7th Mar 2014 7:03pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20455
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Looks like Martin has done.
No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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7th Mar 2014 7:32pm |
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| landys1 Member Since: 04 Dec 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 134
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Nice one, that's exactly how I did it (but you explained it much better AND photos
 ). Amazing how such a simple fix improves the driving experience.... 1959 Series 2 Ragtop
1989 SWB Stationwagon 1998 300Tdi Hard Top and 2012 2.2 Puma Hardtop (at work) 2011 Puma 90 2.4 XS |
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7th Mar 2014 7:57pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20455
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Indeed, it may have been you that mentioned how to do it and what to do. Have to give credit where credit is due to those who have mentioned it before.
I just locked the fact that it's a common issue and people myself included often wanted to know what to do. No Guts, No Glory. ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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7th Mar 2014 8:07pm |
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| landys1 Member Since: 04 Dec 2013 Location: Cheshire Posts: 134
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1959 Series 2 Ragtop
1989 SWB Stationwagon 1998 300Tdi Hard Top and 2012 2.2 Puma Hardtop (at work) 2011 Puma 90 2.4 XS |
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8th Mar 2014 8:39am |
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| carrotbay Member Since: 18 Aug 2013 Location: Northants, UK Posts: 700 
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This is what I like about this forum .. Great advice .. 5 min job making a much nicer drive
2008 Defender 110 XS SW - M57N2 / 6HP28X |
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24th Mar 2014 8:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20455
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At least it means if you carry passengers they don't think your driving a bone shaker.
 No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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24th Mar 2014 9:55pm |
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| Nobby Member Since: 09 Aug 2012 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 444  
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Well done and thank you
added to my list to do. _______________________________
Puma Defender 90 |
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24th Mar 2014 10:18pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20455
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Well worth it to do. No Guts, No Glory.
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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24th Mar 2014 10:28pm |
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