 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Central locking conundrum |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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Hello folks,
A few days ago the rear left hand passenger door on my 110 started to refuse to unlock properly. Yesterday, I doused the lock with duck oil to no avail, so took the door apart expecting to find that the mechanism was binding somewhere. That didn't seem to be the problem either though - it's basically only two rods and two plastic bell cranks and everything seemed to work as it should. When I activated the central locking I could see the motor trying to move the mechanism, but it looked as if it didn't have enough oomph (excuse the technical term) to throw it fully. I convinced myself that the motor was shot and so took it out, but afterwards noticed two strange things: firstly, when activating the lock mechanism directly with pliers it was still quite stiff and secondly, the base of the door lock button where it linked to the first operating rod was flexing like mad when pressed down, almost to the point of not working properly unless done quickly and with some force. So, my question is this: does it seem likely that the motor is worn and no longer strong enough or is the lock mechanism still too stiff? I've never played with either before so have no reference to what they should be like when working properly. Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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20th Jan 2014 9:24pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Ah, ok thanks. I might try taking the lock mechanism out and soaking it in degreaser to see if I can free it up (and put the motor back in again
 ). Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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20th Jan 2014 9:35pm |
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| THF Member Since: 18 Jul 2012 Location: Sunny N Hants or Pompey Posts: 83 
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I have exactly the same problem. Only started to happen over the last week with the cold weather. The locking button just doesn't seem to travel that final bit to unlock the door. I'll give it a good douse in WD40 and see what that brings.
Will follow with interest and report back any findings. Glad to hear I'm not alone!!  |
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20th Jan 2014 10:07pm |
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| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2770
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same here, mine locks but doesn't unlock Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
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20th Jan 2014 10:08pm |
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| Harris110 Member Since: 31 Dec 2011 Location: Wormley Posts: 14
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same.. Its not how fast you go, it's how little you slow down!
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20th Jan 2014 11:27pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
WD is (caRp) a freeing/release agent not a lubricant and it's only mediocre at freeing seized parts.You need proper lock grease, silicon/white lithium or dry graphite lock grease. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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21st Jan 2014 12:18am |
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| Swollock Member Since: 16 Mar 2013 Location: Wellingborough Northants Posts: 262 
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Ditto on the WD40, its a water repellent not a lubricant and I have had it damage plastic parts by making them dry and brittle. I would used AC50 which works a treat. 2008 Defender 110 XS CSW
Volvo S60 T8 Triumph 1200 Rally Explorer G0UBX |
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21st Jan 2014 5:35am |
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| Little Tom Member Since: 20 Aug 2013 Location: Lancashire Posts: 134 
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Same problem here, rear drivers side passenger door, all other locks work fine. It has on occasion worked, most of the time its like it reaches half way but gives up, it even sounds like its moans a bit. I had a nother look at it yesterday and went with the WD40 option as I've run out of ACF50 and it didnt seem to help. Michael was just telling me a story about a friend of his who slept with a land rover, lonely nights in the desert..
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21st Jan 2014 8:36am |
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| charliebaja Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 211 
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I have the reverse effect here as in the door locks go down but you can still open the door from the outside latch.
Do you think that this is the motor as well? |
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25th Jan 2014 4:08pm |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327  
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I've just had the same issue with my rear doors.
I removed the door card and water/sound proofing. Then lubricated the 2 plastic spinny things that connect the rods together. One is below the lock pin (black), the other above the central locking actuator (white), it's perfect again now. Wierd thing was, once I put the door back together again and tested it, the other side started playing up so I had to do that one too. The actuators are fairly powerful, however, due to the angles it's pushing the spinny thing (not sure the correct term for it) it doesn't take too much friction to stop it being able to turn it. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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25th Jan 2014 5:05pm |
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| charliebaja Member Since: 05 Aug 2013 Location: Surrey Posts: 211
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The issue i have is that the locks go down however the door still opens!!
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25th Jan 2014 6:49pm |
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| x-isle Member Since: 26 May 2011 Location: Midlands Posts: 1327
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When you say the lock pin (the interior pin) goes down, do you mean that it goes down, but not enough, so if you the manual press it down further it locks ok?
If so, to check if it's the actual locking mechanism that's not working, have you tried disconnecting the rod from the lock? Easy to do, it's just a black clip that gets moved out the way then the rod comes out. Once it's free from the lock, try locking in the door to see if it now goes down far enough and if it has less friction, of course the door won't lock because it's not connected anymore. I still suspect that the actuator is getting stopped by friction on one or both of those plastic spinny things. The bit you explain is exactly what I was getting, it would lock, but not actually moving enough enough to lock it. I drenched both of my spinny things in GT85 and now there's zero friction on them. Craig Rogers 2007 Puma 110 XS 2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux www.craigrogers.photography |
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25th Jan 2014 9:01pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Well, a bit of spare time and a dry afternoon (finally) allowed me to fix my central locking today.
It turns out that the problem really was just lack of lubrication. After soaking it in duck oil a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the mechanism was much freer when I tried it today. So I refitted the central locking motor and soaked the rest of the linkage in GT85 and it all worked first time 
I then soaked the visible bits of the rest of the locks with GT85 too, for good measure, and cured a reluctance to close first time in one of the other doors! The moral of this tale is to try the simple things first before dismantling half the door to take out a motor that wasn't faulty Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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2nd Feb 2014 4:03pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Although GT85 is better in every respect (and nearly half the price)than WD it's still not a proper lock lube and will dry out or get washed away in a short time especially on the very exposed door handle's on Defenders, same goes for acf50 a good as it is, you need a proper lock grease.
 Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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3rd Feb 2014 11:00pm |
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