 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Heated mirror from heated screen |
 
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324  
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The most common failure of door mounted electrical gubbins seems to be breaks in the wire where it flexes between door and frame, i.e. where it's constantly moved backwards and forwards. In the installation shown in those photos' the wire is fixed in place all the way through the door, so shouldn't suffer fatigue. Once inside the vehicle, a generous loop would reduce the flexing to the bare minimum, so it should be pretty resilient. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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24th Jan 2012 6:48pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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...unlike many other parts  Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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24th Jan 2012 7:36pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Don't think I can help you there - I just took positive from the spade connector at the screen itself (purple) and earth from the bulkhead. Good luck 
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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27th Jan 2012 5:09pm |
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| BigRuss Member Since: 15 May 2010 Location: Norfolk Posts: 2785 
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The purple wire is all the help I needed cheers buddy Russell
2011MY 110 XS USW Black |
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27th Jan 2012 5:16pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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God - I hope LR wire them all the same
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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27th Jan 2012 5:24pm |
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| Nugget Member Since: 25 Apr 2012 Location: Perth Posts: 8  
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Sorry to drag up an old issue.
But can anyone tell me with regards to the MUDStuff heating pads there are two ‘brown’ wires and one ‘blue’ wire. Which is positive and which is negative/earth? Or doesn’t it really matter? I would have at a guess that ‘blue’ wire would be positive and ‘brown’ wire negative/earth. There for power would flow from the center of the mirror out, thus defrosting the mirror in this direction? I also believe they have a 14amp current draw per pad or is it 14amps for two pads? Can anyone verify? Thanks guys, sorry to be so picky about all this. 2008 110 SVX Defender The Black Truck |
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22nd May 2012 8:00am |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Call or E-Mail Mudstuff?
+44 (0) 1422 881951 mud@mudstuff.co.uk *edit* Even better - here are the instructions: http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/fitting_instructions.shtml Good luck
Matt p.s. to avoid death, in UK mains AC wiring, brown is generally live and blue is neutral. This is often carried over to DC wiring with brown being positive/live and blue being negative/earth. Tell someone you love them today because life is short. But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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22nd May 2012 8:17am |
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| Nugget Member Since: 25 Apr 2012 Location: Perth Posts: 8
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Arr Matt perfect, you’re a ‘champion’. Thanks a heap for that.
I bought them from Devon a little while ago, not realizing until yesterday they are a MUDStuff produce. I sent Devon an E-mail and their reply was ‘Wire them up as per a set of driving lights’. Not really the question I was asking. Anyway, all’s good. Thanks again. Craig 2008 110 SVX Defender The Black Truck |
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22nd May 2012 10:23am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092 
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You seem to have sorted it already, but on the heated pads it wouldn't make any difference which way around they were connected.
however, if it was something that might get "earthed" (as in, touching the main vehicle chassis or bodywork) then black or blue would be -ve, red or brown would be +ve. |
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22nd May 2012 12:47pm |
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| boode Member Since: 11 Apr 2012 Location: Devon Posts: 428  
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Sorry posted in wrong thread - can it be deleted
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13th Oct 2012 12:27pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8025  
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to drag this up again
so fitting heated mirrors to work off the front heated screen - you can just take a feed off the front heated screen relay output - ie purple wire? what about to wire them in to come on off the rear Heated screen relay? does anyone know the colour for the rear heated screen output. secondly - where are the two relays located? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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14th Oct 2012 1:10pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2227 
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James, you can wire them up to run off of anything, using a new relay to avoid putting any more load on the existing relays. If you run them independently you shouldn't need a relay since they will only be a couple of amps each tops and the advantage of course is that you won't have the HWS or HRW running when you need the mirrors clearing. Ideally the best set up in my opinion, would be to run then them through a 10 minute timer relay with a non latching switch - fire and forget independent control
 although I realise fitting another switch in your Puma dash could be tricky.
HTH Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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14th Oct 2012 4:41pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101 
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as tim said theres more than another spare capacity in the front screen electrics to tap off that.
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14th Oct 2012 4:45pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8025
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Hi Mo - yep udnerstand all that but your last line says it all, i dont really want another switch on the dash!!
so where is the front screen relay? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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14th Oct 2012 6:39pm |
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