 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Another output shaft..... |
 
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1467   
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Popular opinion among those that have looked into the problem, is that there is an alignment issue between the gearbox and transfer box on the vehicles that have a short shaft life.
If this is the case, fitting a one piece shaft will cause wear in another area. Either the gearbox output or the transfer box input, rather than the connection between the original 2 piece shaft and socket. How long it takes for problems to arise in the other areas remains to be seen. The only certainty is if you've had the problem once, and do nothing to fix it, it will happen again. Good luck with whatever option you go for!  |
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19th Sep 2020 4:11pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2669  
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Thanks Dinnu & DSC, that clears it up for me.
The misalignment would also explain why many Pumas never suffer from this issue, while others do - LR's typical 'build quality' 
Well, seeing that the LOF one is out of stock, I will end up buying the Ashcroft kit as my Puma is going into the shop next week for some transfer case TLC.  --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged 
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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19th Sep 2020 5:23pm |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2669
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I need to stop, else the Mrs will be very cross with the bank balance
Click image to enlarge -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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19th Sep 2020 5:29pm |
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| Julie Member Since: 07 Oct 2017 Location: Nantes Posts: 582  
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Corrosion alone would also explain it , since we all know that some cars having corrosion issues don’t pass the MOT while others never suffer from these problems. |
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20th Sep 2020 7:29am |
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| Naks Member Since: 27 Jan 2009 Location: Stellenbosch, ZA Posts: 2669
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Ashcroft kit arrived this am, Orxy will be going into the shop on Wednesday
Click image to enlarge -- 2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear 2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9 Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ |
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28th Sep 2020 10:30am |
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| Waka56 Member Since: 08 Nov 2023 Location: Hamburg Posts: 170 
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To all the Ashcroft upgraded shaft guys, how does it look 4 to 6 years after? Making my Defender great again. (Or trying to at least xD)
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17th Apr 2024 8:15pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2259
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How’s your LOF one piece shaft performing ?
At 70k miles I’ve decided to drop the transfer box and have a good look at the adapter shaft. if it’s worn I will replace and so it will be Ashcroft, LOF or IRB decision time. Genuine shaft and cup with grease or genuine shaft and cup with a grease nipple in the cup and drilled adapter housing I’ve discounted. I’m aware of all the pros and cons of all the options, just wanted some up to date feedback on those that have fitted the one piece LOF solution, in particular how many miles they have achieved and any issues with the MT82 and / or LT230 box’s. |
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2nd Apr 2025 7:10pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 917 
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I’ve got the LOF unit in our 2.2 Puma. It hasn’t covered that many miles since the conversion, but so far there have been no issues with anything in the transmission. Charlie
1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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3rd Apr 2025 2:03am |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 931  
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I’m around a year in since doing the single piece LOF and not one complaint so far. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
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3rd Apr 2025 9:29am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2259
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I took the transfer box out today to look at the adapter shaft and I’m glad I did. It’s very worn and close to failure in my view. It looks like it’s never been greased and there was lots of the tell tail orange dust on the shaft, cup and housing.
On close inspection of the wear I would say 75% of the shaft had come out of the cup and the remaining 25 % of the cup and shaft splines have been taking the full load over a long period of time. This bears out as when I slid the transfer box off the gearbox ( using 3 x 175mm studs I made and fitted in place of the original bolts plus a transmission jack ) the adapter shaft stayed in the transfer case, not the cup on the gearbox. Therefore in my case I don’t think I have the alignment issue ( which I believe is the cause of many of the issues others have) I think it’s a combination of zero lubrication ! and the retaining ring not holding the shaft fully in the cup. Consequently I’ve gone for the LOF one piece solution , noting I would have gone for the IRB solution as I like its design, however it seems out of stock and mailing and leaving several voice messages with integrated 316, IRB developments and even sending a PM to Porny received zero response and I could wait no longer. PS if I thought I had the alignment issue I would have used the Ashcroft solution. PPS ,I found it easier to remove the cubby box and centre floor panel to gain easy access to the two electrical connectors and breather banjo on top of the Tbox , plus difflock and high low linkages. Plus top nuts and bolts on the Tbox to adapter housing. The top two nearside adapter housing bolts are also better accessed from above via the centre floor, in fact I found it impossible to get to them from below. In my case the top dowel stayed in the gearbox rather than the adapter housing as I attempted to remove the housing, this required me to remove the main gear selector housing to free the adapter housing, allowing to move forward and off the gearbox. To get the cup nut off I used my Milwaukee impact driver and long 30mm impact socket, leaving gearbox in neutral and holding the cup with a genuine BOA aluminium/ rubber strap wrench which held the cup in place with ease. |
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14th Apr 2025 4:32pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 687
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Hi Ian, I have no idea whether it's a common thing for the shaft to work it's way out of the cup, but if it has i would say that is a sign of misalignment between the centre of rotation of the cup and the center of rotation of the far end of the shaft..it's similar to the issue you get on a lathe with the workpiece working it's way out of the chuck if the tailstock cntr is off...
I fitted the lof shaft about 20 months ago and it's most probably covered 15000 miles.. no issues until very recently when I've noticed a rumble from the transmission at standstill and in motion, it disappears when I dip the clutch.. I'm intending to do my two diffs at some point and I'll likely be having a look to see if I can identify that noise... In any case it will allow me to check the shaft .. |
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14th Apr 2025 9:18pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2259
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Thanks Andy, I've seen a few reports of the shaft coming out of the cup. The retaining metal spring O ring is not very good.
Your right, misalignment could cause the shaft to come out of tthe cup, but then many things could so it's hard to tell. It is a concern that you are now getting a rumble, potentially from your transmission. I wonder if it's the clutch given the sound goes when the clutch is out / disengaged ? Mind you, that tends to be a rattle not a rumble. Does the rumble go if you disengage the clutch while vehicle is in motion? |
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15th Apr 2025 12:48pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 687
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I remember my shaft required a little tug to break it away from the cup, and that is after you remove the plastic cover and clip which is cabe tied on and again would help prevent outward movement of the shaft unless there was a force acting on it to cause rearward movement... my first guess would still be an alignment issue causing that movement...
on my rumbling issue, yes I think you loose it if you dip the clutch whilst driving, and im a bit concerned, but can't do much about it atm...another thing I was hoping I haven't done is replace the transfer box input gear in back to front, but keep hoping I haven't been that careless...ill only know for sure when I get round to having a look.. just for interest ill post a couple pictures of my shaft when I removed and replaced it..I think it was ok and would have been fine for a good few more miles..it was close to 44000 miles I think Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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15th Apr 2025 1:10pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17717 
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That looks virtually unworn, although there is some corrosion. I think that would have lasted indefinitely if cleaned and greased.
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15th Apr 2025 2:06pm |
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