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lb73



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: North Wales
Posts: 293

Wales 
Defender M57 engine cooling issue
Hoping a few knowledgeable souls here might be able to give me a few ideas on high running temps I’m experiencing on my bmw m57 engined defender.
I converted it over back in 2021 using the standard TD5 rad supplied in the conversion kit, and it also utilised the original Lucas temp gauge and sender. Cooling was fine for the majority of trips but I always aimed to buy an upgraded rad. Then earlier this year the temperature would go into the red even on a short journey. Hence I then changed the thermostat ( the old one looked as it it had stuck shut) , also changed the water pump and fitted a new Lucas temp sender for piece of mind. Plus I also got my local garage to do a pressure test just to check for any head gasket issues but that was fine.
Anyway from that point on the engine has always run hotter - the original 300tdi temp gauge now sits at between halfway and the red, making me reluctant to use it especially on longer journeys.
I’ve now fitted an alisport performance radiator in the hope of improving things but it’s no better. It takes longer to get warm, but once it is up to temperature it will steadily increase especially if the engine is worked going down the local bypass for example. Just wondering what other options to check such as airlocks in the coolant, maybe try another thermostat or new quality temp gauge, or is it head gasket related.
Any pointers would be great. 1999 300TDI 110 CSW BMW 3.0
1972 VW Beetle 1200
2002 Dax Rush 3.9 V8
2012 Audi A3 tdi
2020 Renault Kangoo electric
Post #1053513 30th Nov 2024 11:18pm
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Retroanaconda



Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2651

Scotland 
First step would be to actually establish what temperature it is running at - the Tdi gauge will not give you any useful information.

Either fit a reputable aftermarket gauge with a dual numbers on (VDO make good ones) or use diagnostics to read live temperatures off the ECU.
Post #1053536 1st Dec 2024 9:10am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5720

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
As above.

You need to KNOW what temperature really is.
Post #1053545 1st Dec 2024 10:29am
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lb73



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: North Wales
Posts: 293

Wales 
Thanks both, will upgrade the gauge/sender this week and see what the temperature readings are. 1999 300TDI 110 CSW BMW 3.0
1972 VW Beetle 1200
2002 Dax Rush 3.9 V8
2012 Audi A3 tdi
2020 Renault Kangoo electric
Post #1053561 1st Dec 2024 11:46am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2235

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
The M57 likes to run bit hotter than a 300. Mine generally runs at 92-94°C read from the engine sensor on the canbus, so if that's what you're running at, that's fine.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #1053579 1st Dec 2024 3:13pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8043

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Ok, so.it ran fine until thermostat stuck. You changed stat and now it still runs hotter than you wish.

Remove the new stat and chuck it in a pan and check opening temp and how much it opens.

I expect the new stat is not performing correctly

I have found a massive variation in m57 stat opening temps and how mich they open, even from same supplier.. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1053603 1st Dec 2024 8:54pm
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lb73



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: North Wales
Posts: 293

Wales 
Thanks for the replies both, aiming to pick up a new gauge from demon tweeks tomorrow. Will also check the thermostat as advised - the replacement was a Gates version from House of Torque, any other makes I should get or avoid? 1999 300TDI 110 CSW BMW 3.0
1972 VW Beetle 1200
2002 Dax Rush 3.9 V8
2012 Audi A3 tdi
2020 Renault Kangoo electric
Post #1053608 1st Dec 2024 10:19pm
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tommobot



Member Since: 15 May 2018
Location: Stratford Upon Avon
Posts: 23

United Kingdom 
I've found if it sit in high gears with the M57 with low revs the temps rise, as shown on the on ODB data.

Unless the engine speed is high enough, I find a blip down into 6/7th gear for a second or two will get the water moving around suitably again.


To be fair the ODB engine temp is taken right off the water coming out of the block, at the rear I belive, wheras my temp gauge is post rad so perhaps may not be a major issue as I don't see the phyiscal temp gauge re-act too much so the radiator must be coping, but the ODB data temp rising and rising is very unconfortable.

I've asked a similar question on the M57 facebook group, and it seems to be hit and miss, but lots of people do seem to have an issue with this.

I'm planning to look at fitting a electric water pump added into the system, to shove the coolant around at a decent rate. As the issue is only (for me in 7th and 8th gears) I would probably add a output from the gearbox controller to activate the EWP only when in 7th and 8th, and potentially having a master override somehow.. (if thats even possible Neutral )
Post #1053630 2nd Dec 2024 10:22am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8043

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
Ewp is 2nd stage.

I have 12 new stats here all.marked 88deg. Worst didn't didn't start opening until 95deg, and worse opener only opened 6mm. Other went over double that.ended up with my own custom made stat.

Once stat is sorted the flow rate may need looking at. I am 6 speed. 60mph is 1800rpm. Coolant needs to move faster. Ewp, smaller water pump pulley, aux pump in heater side are options to consider. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1053687 2nd Dec 2024 9:27pm
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tommobot



Member Since: 15 May 2018
Location: Stratford Upon Avon
Posts: 23

United Kingdom 
Regarding the EWP, I'd heard of the Craig Davies EWP, but not really any others;

This is from a thread on PH, which a guy is retrofitting a audi engine into a boxter but seems a decent product:

Seems a decent and effective solution!

Electric water pump from Stewart Components has arrived:


Click image to enlarge


This one in 32mm input/output so it will go straight into the lower rad hose with a bracket off the sump to carry it. Idea here is that it will function as a boost pump for low RPM use as well as an after run pump to keep the coolant circulating after engine off. Usefully this is exactly what these pumps are designed for!

They're quite a clever bit of kit too using a brushless motor in a high bypass design, so they don't create very much restriction at all when turned off or out flowed by the mechanical pump. Unlike most electric water pumps they're desgined to run in tandem with a mechanical pump and of course that means they fail safe too, I already know they work well as we ran a very similar version on some 24 hour cars a few years back with great results.

A very nice American chap showing function:



Post #1053709 3rd Dec 2024 8:18am
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BuckBlu110



Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 714

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue
A couple of thoughts on this as I had cooling issues before I fitted the Alisport rad to my 301d1 which seems to be behaving now.
Any way it might be worth noting that the m57 in the l322 (301d1) has a auxiliary water pump fitted as standard and having a quick read of the workshop manual, it says that the electric air con fan is used in conjunction with the viscous fan for cooling.
I’d be interested to see how many of you guys are running air con too and whether it makes a difference. Granted those with later engines will likely have an electric fan instead of a viscous fan but the principle of two fans remains the same.
I’ve also found a coolant flush and correct 50/50 mix seemed to make a difference of a couple of degrees with mine also.
Post #1053716 3rd Dec 2024 10:10am
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90 Dreamer



Member Since: 13 Jul 2019
Location: Oop North
Posts: 2161

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Corris Grey
50/50 mix is oft repeated on the internet BUT in practice is simply wrong as you need to check the manufacturer's instructions for the specific anti-freeze concentrate your are using...... majority are 'best' at circa 33% concentrate to water

pure water is a far better 'coolant' than anti-freeze and higher concentrations simply increase temp issues unless your in an Artic type environment which is why these so called "waterless" coolants are nothing more than a gimmick
Post #1053723 3rd Dec 2024 11:05am
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BuckBlu110



Member Since: 19 Apr 2014
Location: in the pub
Posts: 714

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel CSW Buckingham Blue
50/50 is what the workshop manual says, and the same for the coolant I’m using Thumbs Up
I believe bmw recommendation the later, alloy bock engines, the same 50/50 mix but that may be their own branded coolant.
As you say, the coolant manufacturer will know what’s best for their coolant.
Post #1053724 3rd Dec 2024 11:28am
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lb73



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: North Wales
Posts: 293

Wales 
Following on from my original post, a VDO temp gauge and sender has now replaced the o/e items. I’ve also removed the Gates thermostat on the engine tested it in some boiling water (admittedly temp wasn’t tested) and witness zero opening of the stat. Hence I then bought another - this time a Vernet. Tried the boiling water test again before fitting to the engine and again had no movement . Surprised to see two stats in a row that don’t work or I’m I testing it wrong



Click image to enlarge
 1999 300TDI 110 CSW BMW 3.0
1972 VW Beetle 1200
2002 Dax Rush 3.9 V8
2012 Audi A3 tdi
2020 Renault Kangoo electric
Post #1054005 6th Dec 2024 6:19pm
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