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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
Defender A Post Leak
Hi folks, I've got a 2003 90 TD5 XS.
All of a sudden after having the Landy 4 months I've got a leak from the top of the drivers side A post.
It's right in the corner, looked it up in the water ingress manual and says to repair using dum dum sealant.

The question:
Is dum dum still the best stuff to use or is there a new product on the market that's better?
And can anyone recommend a silicon sealant as I have also found a crack in the guttering that needs fixing during my investigations.

Thanks in advance
Will Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #104722 5th Dec 2011 2:18pm
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coln18



Member Since: 01 Nov 2011
Location: Loch Lomond
Posts: 45

Scotland 
you will think this is a wind up, but ive been told this is good stuff for sealing joints and cracks, not used it yet myself but since ive got the same leak as you i will be giving it a try once i get a nice dry day.

CAPTAIN TOLLEY'S CREEPING CRACK CURE SEALANT

COL
Post #104723 5th Dec 2011 2:22pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
Haha it does sound like a rather suspect product Laughing
I'll look it up and see where I can get some from.
Does yours leak from the corner down the window and the post itself to ultimately drip on your foot? Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #104724 5th Dec 2011 2:24pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
JUst looked at the specs and this caught my eye

6 TEMPERATURE FOR USAGE
Do not use on cold surfaces where the temperature is less than 5°C, or on hot surfaces above 27°C. Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #104725 5th Dec 2011 2:27pm
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alfajock



Member Since: 12 Jan 2011
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 227

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 V8 Petrol CSW Bonatti Grey
coln18 wrote:

CAPTAIN TOLLEY'S CREEPING CRACK CURE SEALANT


Fantastic stuff. Did my crack no end of good. The neighbours seemed a bit surprised to see me crawling around on all fours on the roof of my 110 applying it, mind.

Seriously, great stuff for hairline cracks as it runs like water and will creep in by capillary action and seal up. Downside is that you have to be prepared for the residue to also run out for the same reason and therefore you may well have to apply it several times to allow it to build up. Also good for sealing window frames, sunroof seals and alpine lights ie all the usual suspects.

And yes to Dum Dum in the top corner, and also the gap behind the door seal between the windsreen frame and the top of the bulkhead. Fully Restored 89 110 CSW V8

CLS 350 CDI for the sensible stuff
Post #104731 5th Dec 2011 3:13pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
Right, that's very good to know!! Thanks!!

I've literally just dried of what I think is the offending crack, and duct taped it comprehensively
If this solves the problem I will know that's where to apply the CTCCS (Captain Tolley's creeping crack cure sealant)
There is already some dum dum in place in the top corner on closer inspection. Should I remove and replace with new? (tape over it was coming off so has also been replaced with duct tape)

Will Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #104743 5th Dec 2011 3:42pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5700

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
You must of heard about creaking crack before Waldo!

Well used in boating, check the vent flap seals as well.

And stop Censored about, and get it muddy.


Andy
Post #104833 5th Dec 2011 7:53pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
The vent seals are sound, nothing coming in there.
I can actually see it running down from the corner when I'm in it ha.

Don't worry, I've finally organised to do something this Sunday Smile

Will Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #104876 5th Dec 2011 9:37pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
dumdum is the best product as it never sets hard.

key thing here is to find the leak, I suffered from a wet foot, shoulder in my td5 for a while.

check the small joins at the top of the windscreen, the top of the a posts, the gutters and the curved gutter on the roof that goes around the back door. that's where my leak was, fixed with dumdum and forgot about it
Post #104887 5th Dec 2011 9:51pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
Okay folks, it appears it's not right in the corner of the A post this leak Big Cry

I have to park my car on a slight hill. About 5-15 degrees backward roll and 5-15 degrees pitch to the right when it's stationary.
I get in the car shut the door and no leak.
Reverse onto the flat of my drive where the nose of the car is probably down a degree or two and hey presto on comes the water.
Appears as if the water is building up somewhere as if in a reservoir and then being released.
I do have a sunroof but that's watertight (had the inner black trim thing off and a good look. Any ideas where the water could be coming in from?
Haven't tried parking the other way round yet.

Regards
Will Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #105005 6th Dec 2011 12:44pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Go back to the manual and work your way through it for this area. i.e. seal your sunroof properly from the outside this is a must as with all the windows and in your case the alpine windows especially, seal the roof join seam if the paint has cracked, check the front gutter corners are not cracked, seal the A pillars tops anyway. The reservoir you talk about could be the water collecting in the headlining which it does!.

I use Dum Dum and/or Sealing Compound from Frosts.co.uk and Creeping Crack Cure for hairline cracks Thumbs Up

It's just a good idea to get a local window fitter in to seal your windows for around £90 and you can do the rest e.g. cappings, bulkhead hinges, etc etc as per the water ingress manual Thumbs Up
Post #105006 6th Dec 2011 1:02pm
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alfajock



Member Since: 12 Jan 2011
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 227

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 V8 Petrol CSW Bonatti Grey
It sounds like it could be collecting in the inner flange of the roof, the flat bit that the body-sides and pillars bolt to, and then running merrily forward along that and down from the front edge of it when the nose dips (or you brake). It's a well known problem, and the usual suspects are leaking alpine lights and / or the joints in the roof itself where the water can seep in then run down the side of the roof into the flange.

I spent literally years thinking my impromptu showers were down to the sunroof before I figured this one out. Liberal applications of (you've guessed it - Captain Tolleys) to the alpine window seals and the roof joint between the flat and angled sections, and problem solved.

Good luck! Fully Restored 89 110 CSW V8

CLS 350 CDI for the sensible stuff
Post #105007 6th Dec 2011 1:07pm
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twopoint6khz



Member Since: 18 Aug 2011
Location: North Lakes
Posts: 654

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Had exactly the problem you describe in my old 90, it turned out to be leaking right at the rear of the vehicle on the roof join, just above the curved section of guttering that runs over the rear door. The top roof panel is crimped over the side panel and riveted, and it was getting in there somewhere on the folded section. It was then leaking into the internal sill and running right down the car, giving the passenger a little shower when you pressed the brake Laughing

Fixed it with liberal application of bathroom sealant in the end, mainly because it's clear and I didn't want black dum-dum all over my white roof. However I'm aware that's not a long-term fix. Fortunately I have now sold the car Whistle
Post #105026 6th Dec 2011 1:53pm
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Grockle



Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Peak District National Park
Posts: 2266

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
try adjusting the striker so the door shuts on the seal tighter,sorted ours Thumbs Up 2.4 90 XS
1968 1/32 scale Britains 109 Pick up.
Post #105069 6th Dec 2011 4:35pm
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Waldo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2010
Location: Bit South of Manchester
Posts: 240

United Kingdom 
Hi again guys thanks for the rapid replies
I've had a bit of a poke around behind the headlining around the alpine windows on the leaky side. I found some moisture in the inner gutter or flange as alfajock suggested.
Then headed through to see a mechanic buddy of mine about some greenlaning this sunday, turns out he had a defender in the workshop with the headlining removed so I can see where the water could be running which is useful Bow down

So What I'm going to do Is:
For a start remove the headlining front and rear tomorrow lunchtime.
I'll see if the leak is obvious and seal it if it is.
If not I'll shove Larry in the garage or put a big plastic sheet over him for the night after drying the inside out.
Then I'll hose the hell out of it on Thursday and see if I can spot the leak and fix it.
Dum dum is the obvious one for large holes.
The CTCCS is still probably the idea for hairline cracks

More questions:
Best sealant to go over the sunroof seal on the exterior?
As for "other cracks I find" I've been recommended "final systems flexible seal sealant" by my mechanic buddy - it's what he uses in the workshop and he says it's decentor do other people know of a better product.
The Landy is Black by the way so Black sealant isn't an issue Very Happy

Hopefully I'll order all of this stuff tonight so by Thursday it should all be fixed.

Thanks
Will Defender 90 XS TD5 (03 Reg)
Post #105086 6th Dec 2011 5:20pm
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