 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Suspension knock |
 
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| TriniDaddy Member Since: 23 Nov 2020 Location: 10.57422, -61.28906 Posts: 27  
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SO. Was driving yesterday and started to hear a knocking sound on the rear right when going over bumps. Thought it was the wheel bearing gone again (that being the most buggy side) but upon inspection it turns out to be connected to the top side of the spring.
I'm not sure if there's a rubber ring or coating that's supposed to be there but something is definitely degrading between the spring and chassis mount point and I cannot find what it is. The only diagram on LRWorkshop is for a two spring setup which doesn't apply in this case. And the part for that is the "helper ring" RRC3352. I'm stumped. Any clues on figuring this one out?  Click image to enlarge 110 SW 2.4 IZUMI BLUE |
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23rd Feb 2024 8:59pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1079  
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Originally I don't think the defender has spring isolators so you should not find it on a parts list, but you can fit RRC/Disco isolators. This should reduce road noise supposedly.
The 110 has larger springs in the back, but you can isolators from a land cruiser that fit. |
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24th Feb 2024 6:00am |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 743  
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ANR3060
I got mine from Gwyn Lewis  |
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24th Feb 2024 6:56am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17435  
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To me from that photo that looks like the spring shedding its paint or powder coat and I'd be surprised if that is the source of your knock.
Have you checked the damper bushes, a very common source? |
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24th Feb 2024 7:03am |
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| andylee Member Since: 29 Jun 2016 Location: South East Posts: 94
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also worth checking the anti roll bar links, these cause a knock when worn out
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24th Feb 2024 9:54am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5724 
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It looks like the heat shrink type protective sleeve that they put on the end of coil springs is coming off.
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24th Feb 2024 11:08am |
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| markb110 Member Since: 22 May 2010 Location: Guildford Posts: 2643 
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One that gets overlooked, and has happened to me, the bolts holding the upper shock mount.
The nuts on the inside needed nipping up. Wasn’t obvious when looking at it from the outside. Other than that get a willing volunteer to rock the truck as you lay underneath. Also , noises travel, so don’t forget to look elsewhere. Good luck |
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24th Feb 2024 12:39pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3419  
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+ 1 although its not a heat shrink as it is split along the length. I have purchased spare in the past, but cannot find the part number again. They are used on dual rate springs to prevent metal to metal contact when the coils bottom out. Edit: it could be ANR3060 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Feb 2024 1:43pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20435
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A frame ball joint and or associated bushes is another knock issue to the rear, took me while to find that one, usually get it coasting lightly on and off power and it’d knock like a trailer tailgate locking forward and back, and the actually ball joint had excess play.
New genuine bushes, and greasable ball joint from gywn lewis and all was fine since, something else to grease as well.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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24th Feb 2024 3:17pm |
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| TriniDaddy Member Since: 23 Nov 2020 Location: 10.57422, -61.28906 Posts: 27
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So turns out it was a combination of things. The stuff coming off the spring was indeed the coating. Put some hose over it and no issues since. Then another noise came when I had my shocks replaced (incorrectly) and one snapped. Then, there was a rust spot on the bracket for the roll bar bush that caved in. Had that mended and just changed the bushes. No noise. Even the brakes stopped squeaking! I have a poly bush kit so replacing them bit by bit. Did the sway bar ends. But you were so right!!! The A frame ball joint is shot. That's the next project.
Which brings me to my question...what's the advantage of the adjustable ball joint? 110 SW 2.4 IZUMI BLUE |
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20th Jun 2024 5:57pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20435
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Main reason I went for it is just because it is grease-able, that I think is useful for the A frame ball joint.
If / when the steering ball joints need replacing in future again I’d go for grease-able, but that’s just me. I had tried Polybushes once, luckily only on the dampers and went back to genuine rubber after bad experiences. Rubber last quite well, and it’s cheaper to replace rubber than components as well. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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20th Jun 2024 6:22pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5724
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I fitted a greaseable adjustable rear A frame ball joint and all was good for a year. During this time it was greased once. Then I got a knock. A frame ball joint play. To adjust it involves removing the ball joint to do this. One month later. Knock knock. Adjusted it again. Few weeks later. Knock knock. Then I fitted a greaseable, non adjustable and I’m far happier with it and so far has stood up to a lot of abuse.
https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/a-frame...ng-gl1041/ Gwyn’s are already fitted with poly boots, and in the housing. He can also provide the two bolts. |
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20th Jun 2024 8:28pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20435
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That’s the one I went for.
$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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21st Jun 2024 1:35pm |
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