 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Diff Clunk! |
 
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6308   
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hi mate,
have you checked the ...(?) errr can't think what its called but I believe there is a rubber bush type joint on the rear axle that is intended to prevent the axle casing from rotating back and forth. if this is shot you'll get a knocking when pulling away ?  
I believe its referred to as the ball joint? |
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2nd Jan 2025 2:23pm |
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| gcc130 Member Since: 05 Jun 2015 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 749 |
He does say he’s replaced the ball joint.
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2nd Jan 2025 2:37pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 186  
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I've had similar symptoms on my 2008 110 Puma, as reported here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic91475.html
I changed the diff for an Ashcroft ATB myself and adjusted the backlash conscientiously, as posted in another thread here https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic91738.html which improved things considerably. /Mat |
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2nd Jan 2025 2:54pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6308
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oops - yes.  |
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2nd Jan 2025 3:03pm |
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| Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6308
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forgive me for suggesting this - I know you've said at the back, but could it be the adapter shaft?
simply based on half shafts and ball joints having not improved matters? |
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2nd Jan 2025 3:06pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20480 
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Prop UJ failure, likely nearest the Diff, or the above.
It’s hard to tell if a single bearing cup has gone, the roller bearings in one can just go to dust really. Best to tell by taking one end of the prop off, whilst in situ, it can be difficult to find. On mine, it was the UJ nearest the rear diff, so furthest to the rear. In the process it can also wear the diff pinion oil seal elliptical, and cause a leak at the diff nose too. As well as, wearing the A frame ball joint, rear halfshafts, splines and DM’s. Another tell tale is, with the rear at least, is if the handbrake is on, is there excess movement in the vehicle? I.e. Put handbrake on, push the vehicle around from behind if it moves more than you’d expect its play in a UJ. It’ll also clunk, clank, when taking up or coming off drive or lightly on off power coasting in lower gears and is worse when at low speeds, especially under 15mph, and is better at higher speeds. Just suggestions here, but this one took me a while to find, I had the diff leak repaired, then it came back, so that told me it was something near, so when it was done they either knew the UJ was gone but put it back anyway and said nothing, or more likely it wasn’t noticed. Just one bearing gone is enough. You never know, so worth mentioning. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 2nd Jan 2025 7:27pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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2nd Jan 2025 5:28pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 755 
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Agree.... Prop UJ could be the culprit
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2nd Jan 2025 6:58pm |
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| Kevzeboy Member Since: 19 Jul 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 87 
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New. Replaced both on rear prop with HD GKN ones in August.
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2nd Jan 2025 7:48pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20480
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Have you had a look at the diff internals? You’d need a borescope to to that though properly, but there could be a bolt that is loose, but nothing adrift or a chipped tooth.
If there is a loose fixing there, it could be in place but loose and cause excess play. That could be why you find no debris or metal. I take it the damper bushes and things like that are fine. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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2nd Jan 2025 8:11pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5741 
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Check it isn’t the drive flange on the diff. It was on my Tdci.
If not. Pop the rear differential out, it’s very easy to do. Get it on a bench and see what you think to the play in it. It is very easy to adjust, and is good practice if you decide to upgrade later. They are simple things, and doesn’t take much time |
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2nd Jan 2025 8:59pm |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 900 
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I used to have a rear axle clunk on my 90. I changed the half shafts, drive flanges, prop UJs, suspension bushes. I checked the play in the diff and it was perfectly acceptable. However, the diff made a clunk and I have no idea why . . .
I swapped out the diff for a Winchester Gears unit with an ATB; no clunk since. Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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3rd Jan 2025 8:30am |
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| Glen-I Member Since: 21 Oct 2023 Location: Berkshire Posts: 36
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I had a knock when taking up drive initially and then the same again when reversing.
Having replaced the half shafts for one piece units the noise was still there. I found the diff pinion flange was actually moving slightly. When I slackened the bolt, the flange had no resistance on the shaft. Removed the flange, applied Loctite 660 to the splines, refitted the flange and torqued up. Never heard the noise again! This is my 2014 which had 31k on the clock when I purchased it. |
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3rd Jan 2025 9:12am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20480
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I was just about the mention the diff pinion bolt maybe a touch loose until I read the above, that’s a possibility.
That would then cause excess wear as well, a small bit of movement in the drivetrain gets amplified by other areas up or down the line. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 3rd Jan 2025 6:09pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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3rd Jan 2025 10:12am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17473 
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Crossed wires here, I think. There is a welding issue with TDCi front axles, well documented here on the forum, but this has nothing to do with the rear diff. There are no welded parts in the rear diff, and I cannot find any mention of any issue regarding the rear diff on the website.
The rear diff in a 110 is (or at least should be) a four-gear P38 "short nose" diff. It is a very rudimentary diff and not complex, but the short length of the pinion shaft can result in (relatively) rapid pinion bearing wear. Adjusting the backlash in these diffs (and the Rover type diffs as found inter alia in the front axle) is very simple and requires little skill, however you will either need to use guesswork (aka "common sense") or obtain a dial gauge with suitable mount, and some means of measuring the diff carrier bearing preload. If you need to replace the pinion bearings the job becomes more complicated and the special tools required increase since you will ideally need to measure the pinion "height" (i.e., how far the pinion protrudes into the pinion housing), which is adjusted by selective shimming, and the pinion bearing preload, also adjusted by selective shimming. There is nothing particularly difficult about this but it does require some precision measuring instruments and a certain understanding of the principles involved. On a vehicle which has seen as little use as yours it is unlikely that there is any problem with the pinion bearings and it is probable that all you would need to do is to adjust the backlash between the pinion and crownwheel. |
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3rd Jan 2025 4:45pm |
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