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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
removing transfer box
I have the gearbox and tranferbox out of the vehicle. I've taken 4 bolts and 2 nuts off and the transfer box has moved a little bit, perhaps a mm or two but seems reluctant to go any further. Is there a reason it's not moving?

Is there another fixing somewhere? Can I lever it off? Does it just neeed a load of wiggling?

Cheers!
Post #997341 24th Jun 2023 7:37am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
There are only six fasteners holding the two boxes together so, assuming you've removed the correct six of course, they should separate. Wiggling and shaking should do no harm (and if that doesn't help try wiggling and shaking the transfer box!) but avoid brute force. If the really won't come apart, remove the bottom plate from the transfer box and/or the PTO cover and try to see what is snagging.
Post #997347 24th Jun 2023 9:04am
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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
There are only six fasteners holding the two boxes together so, assuming you've removed the correct six of course, they should separate. Wiggling and shaking should do no harm (and if that doesn't help try wiggling and shaking the transfer box!) but avoid brute force. If the really won't come apart, remove the bottom plate from the transfer box and/or the PTO cover and try to see what is snagging.



All six are out, 4 bolts and two stud nuts.

It feels like its still attached at the bottom as the top of the case has opened up a mm or so.

Can't see any more nuts or bolts, but I assume there is a dowel or two in there?[/quote]
Post #997387 24th Jun 2023 4:02pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Yes, two (as I recall) locating dowels, one at the top and one at the bottom. The top one is coaxial with a fastener.
Post #997398 24th Jun 2023 5:13pm
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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
Just wondering if it would be easier to tip the whole assembly up on its end and lift the transfer upwards with the engine crane?
Post #997401 24th Jun 2023 5:50pm
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NickMc



Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1620

Northern Ireland 2006 Defender 90 Td5 HT Bonatti Grey
I think it’s about 35kg, I normally take the handbrake drum off and then the four bolts inside holding the whole assembly off in one and set it on top of the exhaust silencer out of the way with cable etc still attached. Makes it a bit more manageable to work with.

I can lift one on the floor myself easy enough, I guess it depends on how strong and nimble you are.


Are all the levers,connectors and breathers disconnected?
Post #997405 24th Jun 2023 6:27pm
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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
Quote:
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I think it’s about 35kg, I normally take the handbrake drum off and then the four bolts inside holding the whole assembly off in one and set it on top of the exhaust silencer out of the way with cable etc still attached. Makes it a bit more manageable to work with.

I can lift one on the floor myself easy enough, I guess it depends on how strong and nimble you are.


Are all the levers,connectors and breathers disconnected?


The whole gearbox and transfer box are out of the vehicle.

Something seems to be keeping it from sliding off.

It's moving, so its not sealant or anything.
Post #997413 24th Jun 2023 8:22pm
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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
Got it off!



Click image to enlarge



What do I look for to decide if to replace the intermediate shaft?
Post #997450 25th Jun 2023 9:53am
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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
Splines look OK to me. No slack. Bone dry of course, so I'll put some EP grease in there.

I know the brown dust is worn off metal but there's not much of it.

I did see that there are two splines missing on the cup, opposite each other. Normal?

Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
Post #997452 25th Jun 2023 10:37am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
That looks pretty good. I'd clean if thoroughly and reassemble with plenty of molybdenum disulphide grease (CV joint grease) and a new seal.

How many miles has that done?
Post #997457 25th Jun 2023 11:10am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3399

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Just a reminder that one of the bolts is shorter otherwise can bind the intermediate gears.
Edit - just a note for when you re assemble. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #997459 25th Jun 2023 11:26am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1971

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
That looks pretty good. I'd clean if thoroughly and reassemble with plenty of molybdenum disulphide grease (CV joint grease) and a new seal.

How many miles has that done?


Would Morris K48 molly grease be good in this application https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/k48-moly-grease.html
Post #997474 25th Jun 2023 3:29pm
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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
That looks pretty good. I'd clean if thoroughly and reassemble with plenty of molybdenum disulphide grease (CV joint grease) and a new seal.

How many miles has that done?


21k miles. not even run in.... except that the clutch slave cylinder expoded...
Post #997476 25th Jun 2023 4:07pm
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rich585



Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

United Kingdom 
Dinnu wrote:
Just a reminder that one of the bolts is shorter otherwise can bind the intermediate gears.
Edit - just a note for when you re assemble.


Thanks! I'll check that. They are all still in the housing at the moment!
Post #997477 25th Jun 2023 4:08pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Ianh wrote:
...
Would Morris K48 molly grease be good in this application https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/k48-moly-grease.html


Yes, perfect. Moly grease is ideal for things that slide rather than roll, so in this application is better than traditional lithium based grease.

There are many people who have had them fail at a lower mileage than 21k. Shocked
Post #997487 25th Jun 2023 5:28pm
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