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rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

removing transfer box

I have the gearbox and tranferbox out of the vehicle. I've taken 4 bolts and 2 nuts off and the transfer box has moved a little bit, perhaps a mm or two but seems reluctant to go any further. Is there a reason it's not moving?

Is there another fixing somewhere? Can I lever it off? Does it just neeed a load of wiggling?

Cheers!

24th Jun 2023 7:37am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

There are only six fasteners holding the two boxes together so, assuming you've removed the correct six of course, they should separate. Wiggling and shaking should do no harm (and if that doesn't help try wiggling and shaking the transfer box!) but avoid brute force. If the really won't come apart, remove the bottom plate from the transfer box and/or the PTO cover and try to see what is snagging.

24th Jun 2023 9:04am

rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

blackwolf wrote:
There are only six fasteners holding the two boxes together so, assuming you've removed the correct six of course, they should separate. Wiggling and shaking should do no harm (and if that doesn't help try wiggling and shaking the transfer box!) but avoid brute force. If the really won't come apart, remove the bottom plate from the transfer box and/or the PTO cover and try to see what is snagging.

All six are out, 4 bolts and two stud nuts.

It feels like its still attached at the bottom as the top of the case has opened up a mm or so.

Can't see any more nuts or bolts, but I assume there is a dowel or two in there?[/quote]

24th Jun 2023 4:02pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

Yes, two (as I recall) locating dowels, one at the top and one at the bottom. The top one is coaxial with a fastener.

24th Jun 2023 5:13pm

rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

Just wondering if it would be easier to tip the whole assembly up on its end and lift the transfer upwards with the engine crane?

24th Jun 2023 5:50pm

NickMc

Member Since: 01 Oct 2014
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 1620

I think it’s about 35kg, I normally take the handbrake drum off and then the four bolts inside holding the whole assembly off in one and set it on top of the exhaust silencer out of the way with cable etc still attached. Makes it a bit more manageable to work with.

I can lift one on the floor myself easy enough, I guess it depends on how strong and nimble you are.

Are all the levers,connectors and breathers disconnected?

24th Jun 2023 6:27pm

rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

Quote:
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I think it’s about 35kg, I normally take the handbrake drum off and then the four bolts inside holding the whole assembly off in one and set it on top of the exhaust silencer out of the way with cable etc still attached. Makes it a bit more manageable to work with.

I can lift one on the floor myself easy enough, I guess it depends on how strong and nimble you are.

Are all the levers,connectors and breathers disconnected?

The whole gearbox and transfer box are out of the vehicle.

Something seems to be keeping it from sliding off.

It's moving, so its not sealant or anything.

24th Jun 2023 8:22pm

rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

Got it off!

Click image to enlarge

What do I look for to decide if to replace the intermediate shaft?

25th Jun 2023 9:53am

rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

Splines look OK to me. No slack. Bone dry of course, so I'll put some EP grease in there.

I know the brown dust is worn off metal but there's not much of it.

I did see that there are two splines missing on the cup, opposite each other. Normal?

Click image to enlarge

25th Jun 2023 10:37am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

That looks pretty good. I'd clean if thoroughly and reassemble with plenty of molybdenum disulphide grease (CV joint grease) and a new seal.

How many miles has that done?

25th Jun 2023 11:10am

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3399

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

Just a reminder that one of the bolts is shorter otherwise can bind the intermediate gears.
Edit - just a note for when you re assemble. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

25th Jun 2023 11:26am

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1971

blackwolf wrote:
That looks pretty good. I'd clean if thoroughly and reassemble with plenty of molybdenum disulphide grease (CV joint grease) and a new seal.

How many miles has that done?

Would Morris K48 molly grease be good in this application https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/k48-moly-grease.html

25th Jun 2023 3:29pm

rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

blackwolf wrote:
That looks pretty good. I'd clean if thoroughly and reassemble with plenty of molybdenum disulphide grease (CV joint grease) and a new seal.

How many miles has that done?

21k miles. not even run in.... except that the clutch slave cylinder expoded...

25th Jun 2023 4:07pm

rich585

Member Since: 30 Sep 2020
Location: dorset UK
Posts: 18

Dinnu wrote:
Just a reminder that one of the bolts is shorter otherwise can bind the intermediate gears.
Edit - just a note for when you re assemble.

Thanks! I'll check that. They are all still in the housing at the moment!

25th Jun 2023 4:08pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17312

Ianh wrote:
...
Would Morris K48 molly grease be good in this application https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/k48-moly-grease.html

Yes, perfect. Moly grease is ideal for things that slide rather than roll, so in this application is better than traditional lithium based grease.

There are many people who have had them fail at a lower mileage than 21k.

25th Jun 2023 5:28pm

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