excossack wrote:

and the other thing to sort is the rear door stay mechanism - I am open to suggestions on this.

LandRoverAnorak wrote:

How are you fixing the newer wheel carrier, John. It looks like the holes are just through the door skin?

There is a reinforcing plate at the rear


Click image to enlarge

I was thinking of an additional plate across the back as well 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

Dinnu wrote:

Nice work.

excossack wrote:

and the other thing to sort is the rear door stay mechanism - I am open to suggestions on this.

What do you have on the new door?

At the bottom my old door cards I had dry wall screws. They go through the steel without the need for drilling.

This is what I have


Click image to enlarge 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock

geobloke wrote:

Good effort John I have four doors painted up for Miffy. Do fancy doing those as well

excossack wrote:

This is what I have


Click image to enlarge

excossack wrote:

There is a reinforcing plate at the rear


Click image to enlarge

I was thinking of an additional plate across the back as well

In the end, I went for a chassis mounted wheel carrier - got a good price on a used one on here. Prior to that coming up I was considering something else to strengthen the door/carry the load of the wheel, as it has certainly destroyed the old door.

I had always planned to use a chequer plate rear door lining - the old card one was U/S - so my thinking was:

Fit the carrier to the door with longer bolts;
Put a nut and large washer onto this bolt against the inside of the door skin;
Then, fit a "spacer" to take up the gap between the outer skin and the chequer plate inner cover (I had in mind some structural nylon or delrin thick walled tube, cut to length x 6);
Mount the chequer plate (with the carrier bolts protruding);
Then put another nut onto the bolt and tighten that up against the chequer plate/spacer.
Once you've got the required length of the carrier bolt, you could cut it down and use a 'cap nut' - so avoiding a nut/thread catching clothes, bags etc being loaded in the back.

Probably overkill, but my idea was that this would be a 'sandwich' kind of mount, with the load of the wheel being taken in part by more of the door's strengthening ribs, via the chequer plate.

That explanation's probably not worked too well...  Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...

Dinnu wrote:

excossack wrote:

This is what I have


Click image to enlarge

Sorry no ideas here other than perhaps go to one of the aftermarket gas struts.

donmacn wrote:

I can say that the Nakatanenga upper gas strut is a nice piece of kit. I'm happy with it after maybe 2 years.

On the other question about drilling holes/using screws to hold things in place, can I put in a vote for using rivnuts. This is what I did when I built up my rear door - and once you start using them, you see other uses all over the place. If you're drilling a hole in a galvanised door for a screw, you might as well drill a slightly bigger one for a rivnut. You can get stainless ones, and I've used M4 or M5 in the doors.

I think I've used a company called rivetwise a few times, and a hand-grip setting tool isn't too expensive.

excossack wrote:

geobloke wrote:

Good effort John I have four doors painted up for Miffy. Do fancy doing those as well

Cheers. It was over a couple of nights after work. I can pop down and lend a hand if you want.

That's very kind fella What I need to do first is find some shelter before I start this job. Plus I need a few other bits before I begin too