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deaallen



Member Since: 15 Feb 2016
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 264

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
Output shaft - updated genuine or Ashcroft?
At 41k and after a remap my clutch is on its way out, so I'm looking at all the other jobs I should get done while its on the ramp.

My main worry is the output shaft. Should I go with the genuine parts kit which has "special spline grease" or should I go with Ashcrofts MT82 Output shaft kit?

- I've heard that the ashcroft kit isn't worth the extra and that this new genuine parts kit works as well if not better, but that was from one of ashcrofts rivals at a landrover show so Rolling Eyes
Post #749910 8th Jan 2019 10:19am
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John64



Member Since: 10 Sep 2018
Location: Tayport
Posts: 38

Scotland 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tonga Green
I am also interested in peoples experience with this shaft vs genuine
Post #749915 8th Jan 2019 10:32am
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WindyJ



Member Since: 18 Oct 2018
Location: France
Posts: 190

Dont think there is much of a price difference? I’ve done a lot of research as my defender came with a boxed Ashcroft kit. I’m going to fit it when I do the clutch. What I have learnt is there does not seem to be many, if any cases of the Ashcroft kit failing but there are reports of the JLR one, the latest one, doing so.
Logically both should be fine but Ashcroft uses oil rather than grease and that’s always going to do a better job imho. Only real recommendations for the JLR ones seem to be from people who sell it whereas it’s the customers praising the Ashcroft.
Post #749921 8th Jan 2019 10:53am
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deaallen



Member Since: 15 Feb 2016
Location: Basingstoke
Posts: 264

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
Post #749924 8th Jan 2019 10:57am
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WindyJ



Member Since: 18 Oct 2018
Location: France
Posts: 190

Ok, well that is a bigger difference for some reason I thought Ashcroft was the £200 mark. Luckily I didn’t sell it for £130 I was offered and thought about a while back!
On weighing up the research I did, if I had to buy, I think I’d go with the Ashcroft though even at the full price...though would um and ahh about it more.
Post #749931 8th Jan 2019 11:25am
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8053

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I would and have fitted the Ashcroft one in pref. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #749934 8th Jan 2019 11:50am
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ashtrans
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Member Since: 08 Nov 2008
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 258

United Kingdom 
A subject I have learned quite alot about in the last few years !

we are now on our 4th version of this kit, the first 3 suffering from occasional random leaks which took us a while to resolve,

I naively assumed the MT82 output shaft would be inline with the LT230 input gear or at least fairly close as the adapter casting between the MT82 and LT230 is doweled front and rear.

It turns out they are not inline and some have quite an error so the LT230 input gear is holding the rear of the shaft to the side, try and visualise what this error means to the male and female spline (the one that wears) at the front of the shaft.

the faces of the spline are rubbing up and down against eachother dry, hence the wear.

There has been lots of debate in the past as to what models and years wear, I this the model and year are irrelevant as it depends were you fall in the tolerance range, some never fail ie these have minimal error, some fail every 25K, these would be way out.

I cannot categorically say that some are out of tolerance as I dont have the engineering drawings but I would suggest many are way out.

next question is what to do about it :

its not easy to correct this error so it has to be 'managed' in some way,


a) assemble with new parts and fancy blue LR grease, better than dry, will last longer but not a long term fix as grease will solidify over time and it will wear again

b) drill and fit grease nipples, better but will need topping up from time to time and I dont think grease will flow around the length of every spline as well as oil would.

c) fit our kit, we have sold over 2000 now and yes we have had some early ones leak but on our latest design this has been resolved and I have never seen one wear out and fail.

Dave Dave
Post #749935 8th Jan 2019 11:55am
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Roy5695



Member Since: 15 Feb 2014
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 1123

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Indus Silver
I went with an updated LR one. No problems as of yet. Luke at LOF keeps all the parts you require in stock and is more than willing to answer any questions you will have. 2011 Defender DCPU 2.2 - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic30623.html

Instagram - @r22oyp

Roy
Post #749936 8th Jan 2019 11:58am
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2301

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I fitted Ashcroft when replacing the clutch and so far very happy

Yes there is a price difference but this outweighs the cost of doing it again and again if you intend to keep hold of the vehicle for at length of time > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #749941 8th Jan 2019 12:15pm
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3314

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I went with a LOF uprated clutch and Ashcroft output shaft and the result was a revelation.

Couldn't be happier.
Post #749947 8th Jan 2019 12:43pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17448

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
ashtrans wrote:
A subject I have learned quite alot about in the last few years !

[...]

I naively assumed the MT82 output shaft would be inline with the LT230 input gear or at least fairly close as the adapter casting between the MT82 and LT230 is doweled front and rear.

It turns out they are not inline and some have quite an error so the LT230 input gear is holding the rear of the shaft to the side, try and visualise what this error means to the male and female spline (the one that wears) at the front of the shaft.

[...]

Dave


Dave, a very interesting post! I have thought for years (and been expressing my view on this forum for years) that a misalignment exists on some vehicles, causing accelerated fretting and wear. In reality there is no other explanation why some shafts last 6k miles and others 250k+ miles. The only credible explanation is a tolerance problem and in effect some shafts "waggle" when running.

I think that another cause of premature failure is the spring ring not retaining the shaft in place properly. Some, undoubtedly, are not assembled properly, but I have also wondered if a waggling shaft can work its way out overcoming the (rather feeble) retaining ring.

You conclusions are therefore very welcome confirmation of what I have always believed.

It also suggests that the root cause if you suffer from shaft failures is the combination of gearbox, transfer box, and/or adaptor casing that you have rather than the shaft itself, and also suggests that if you suffer accelerated wear with your first shaft any subsequent shaft is also likely to wear (although your kit will at least mean that the shaft is lubricated properly). Similarly if you are lucky enough to have a good combination of boxes, you will probably be safe for very high mileages and any replacement shaft will also last a long time.

I wonder if it is the MT82, the LT230, or the adaptor casing that has the bigger tolerance problem, or if it is a case of accumulated maxima.

I last changed my clutch at 150k miles and at that time my original ex-factory joint was bone dry but a perfect fit (a better fit in fact that the brand new parts I had bought from LR just in case). At the same time I changed the transfer box for a low-mileage second-hand one out of a write-off due to the whining noise my original box was making, and refitted the original shaft but greased the joint very thoroughly.

I have now done a further 80k miles or so and the clutch again needs changing, so it will be interesting to see how the shaft has fared since the last change.

My gut says that the part most likely to be made on the cheap is the adaptor housing. It would be interesting to have some way to do a dimensional survey of a reasonable sample of these.
Post #749952 8th Jan 2019 12:51pm
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ashtrans
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Member Since: 08 Nov 2008
Location: Harpenden
Posts: 258

United Kingdom 
hank wrote:
I fitted Ashcroft when replacing the clutch and so far very happy

Yes there is a price difference but this outweighs the cost of doing it again and again if you intend to keep hold of the vehicle for at length of time


not only the cost of doing it again but it may fail at a bad time, ie all loaded up with your family about to set off on summer holiday, hard to put a price on this. Dave
Post #749957 8th Jan 2019 12:56pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 361

ashtrans wrote:
A subject I have learned quite alot about in the last few years !

[...]

c) fit our kit, we have sold over 2000 now and yes we have had some early ones leak but on our latest design this has been resolved and I have never seen one wear out and fail.

Dave


Thanks for the clarification, that finally explains the mistake! But at the same time it also means that gluing the connection would be extremely bad in the case of higher tolerances of the shafts!
Post #749958 8th Jan 2019 12:57pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17448

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Ashtrans wrote:
not only the cost of doing it again but it may fail at a bad time, ie all loaded up with your family about to set off on summer holiday, hard to put a price on this.


I agree completely.

I am even more concerned that it may fail at a lethal time. It is not hard to think of scenarios when a complete unexpected loss of drive vastly increases your chance of an horrific and premature death.

It saddens me that LR has never taken this problem seriously. There again, even the problem of front hubs breaking off the axle wasn't really taken especially seriously.
Post #749959 8th Jan 2019 1:01pm
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7906

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
As well as the above useful replies, try searching "output shaft" there are several very good lengthy thread on this Puma weakness. I'm on my third in 60k miles, if this one goes in the few years I will go Ashcroft. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #749963 8th Jan 2019 1:16pm
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