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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2031
United Kingdom 
Thanks Fernando, I think our wires got crossed. I think the Ducato one is the same as the OEM one, which seems to fail, I was looking at the metal one as a possible alternative, but with associated mods to pipes etc.

In the end I’ve gone for the oem one but via the Citroen part number. There are a few out there from China via eBay etc. But I found some on autodoc by an Italian company called Impergom , autodoc list the Maker as Imperium. Just search on the Citroen part number. £22.45 plus £8.5 delivery. So I purchased two, so just under £27 each. I will post on quality when I receive and update on how it performs once fitted.
Post #795658 28th Sep 2019 6:32pm
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Pinky



Member Since: 09 Jun 2016
Location: England
Posts: 208
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Baltic Blue
Here is a video of swapping it out if anyone is interested


Post #795803 29th Sep 2019 2:20pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1211
United Kingdom 
I like the coolant dipstick in the video, I wonder if it is home made or available? 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #795848 29th Sep 2019 6:08pm
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Pinky



Member Since: 09 Jun 2016
Location: England
Posts: 208
England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Baltic Blue
Home made, very easy from a piece of sheet metal.
Post #795857 29th Sep 2019 6:31pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2031
United Kingdom 
That’s a very comprehensive video Pinky. Thanks for posting it.

Now need to source some pipe clamps ! I was hoping that as the pipes look higher than the coolant tank top level I would not need to clamp them off, but seems I must to avoid a lot off coolant loss.

As for the coolant dipstick, Great little gadget , would save using my index finger which seems the perfect length. The video said home made so I guess I will fabricate one just like it.
Post #795859 29th Sep 2019 6:44pm
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seriesonenut



Member Since: 19 Nov 2014
Location: Essex
Posts: 1211
United Kingdom 
Pinky wrote:
Home made, very easy from a piece of sheet metal.


Thanks I will give it a go. Sorry i did not pick up the home made mention in the video, had to watch with the volume down......still better entertainment than strictly come dancing which Im suffering at the moment Rolling with laughter 2010 XS USW
1957 Series One 88 diesel
1958 Series One 88 4x2
Post #795872 29th Sep 2019 7:01pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554
Fernando wrote:
The valve is that of Fiat Ducato!



yes
Post #795878 29th Sep 2019 7:07pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2031
United Kingdom 
Just purchased the clamps. Sealey vso301 , a set of 4 clamps at £8.45 inc postage from FFX tools. At that price I purchased 2 sets so I had 4 of the largest clamps. The smaller ones will be good for brake pipes. The clamps look well made and look like they will spread the pressure on the pipes so not to damage them. Plus being screw clamps they are compact and you can fine adjust clamp pressure easily.
Valves arrive monday so next weekend will change valve over.
The video posted looks comprehensive, but if I find I come across something different in change over I will post on that with some pictures.
Post #796833 5th Oct 2019 6:26pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2031
United Kingdom 
As an update, when changing my EGR I had to remove the heater control valve to gain access to the EGR coolant pipes , bolts, nuts and studs. If the engine is cold and you have the valve switched to cold there is minimum coolant loss, a small cup will catch it. So really don’t need to clamp the coolant hoses when changing out the heater valve in my experience.
Also for topping up get a litre of genuine Orange coloured concentrated coolant from a dealer. It’s not that expensive and you are assured on compatibility with current coolant. Also use de-ionised water to dilute. Cheap from supermarkets as used by people in irons to stop them furring up.
Post #866040 8th Nov 2020 11:30am
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Re: Alternative heater bypass control valve
Ianh wrote:
I’m wondering if this valve would also be a viable alternative to the current Oem one. Noting it would need hose adaption but seems to have a cable controlled valve mechanism so easier to integrate into current setup.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16mm-5-8-Heater...2279138616

Points to note, all connections are 16mm so would need a 16mm to 18mm hose adapter for one heater hose. But these are only circa £3 on line .its metal not plastic but has a wide operating temperature range. It’s used in taxis, classic and self buil car applications. Unsure of quality.



Anyone fitted this? --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #988120 6th Apr 2023 11:54am
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 361
In principle there is nothing against it, but you have to ask for the diameter of the adjustment so that the original Bowden cable has the same path.
Post #988140 6th Apr 2023 3:13pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
^ excuse my ignorance, but would you mind explaining this like you would to a 5-yr old? Rolling with laughter --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #988144 6th Apr 2023 3:47pm
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hornet



Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Western Europe
Posts: 361
Of course. The original adjustment is determined by the path of the rotary knob translated via the Bowden-cable. If the dimensions of the alternative control valve are not correct, it either remains open or (if too short) cannot be turned to the end. This means that the "adjustment travel" must be identical. HTH!
Post #988168 6th Apr 2023 7:19pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2645
South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
^
these are the specs, how does one determine the adjustment travel?

Specification Metric Imperial & Other
Hose Size ∅ 16mm ∅ 5/8"
Post Size ∅ 4.5mm ∅ 0.18"
Min Temperature -40 °C -40 °F
Max Temperature 110 °C 230 °F
Pressure Limit 3 BAR (Gauge) 43.5 PSI (Gauge)
Construction Zinc Plated Steel
Cable Required Bowden Cable with Looped End
Cable Movement 30mm
Operation Pull to Bypass
Part Number 149-CDB-560 --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ
Post #988190 7th Apr 2023 7:35am
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piechipsandpeas



Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: Albany, Western Australia
Posts: 215
Australia 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
Hey Naks

Regarding the adjustment travel. I have measured my original LR control valve and got the following dimensions from end of cable outer sheath to start of the ferrule that attached the cable to the valve:
Cold position (fully closed) = 38mm
Hot position (fully open) = 11mm
Total adjustment travel = 27mm

(the blue and green cable ties are there to stop the end of the cable outer from flexing which can prevent the valve from fully closing, resulting in always having hot air blowing out of the vents).

Andy

Fully closed position
Click image to enlarge

Fully open position

Click image to enlarge
Post #988213 7th Apr 2023 1:05pm
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