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NormanD



Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: Bristol
Posts: 286
England 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Porny, whens the next batch due? NormanD WE191

2015 110 XS Utility
2014 VW Caravelle 180 Executive
Post #1052195 19th Nov 2024 2:23pm
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Tim300TDIMorts



Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chandlers Ford
Posts: 106
United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Epsom Green
Hi guys. I fitted mine this afternoon but it seems that the hot water isnt getting through as the part is warm to touch but the pipes the other side aren’t. Almost like there’s an air lock. Any ideas?
Post #1052217 19th Nov 2024 5:03pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1997
United Kingdom 
Re: IRB valve
Andy T wrote:
Zed wrote:
My IRB heater control valve arrived last week. Sadly I haven’t had a chance to fit but it truly is a thing of beauty. It deserves to be hung in the Louvre not hidden under my bonnet!
Cheers Ian.


Agree far too beautiful to fit Laughing
However mine is in place and working beautifully, thank you Ian 'Porny' Bow down


So do you have better control of the heat level via the control on the dash. Or is it like the Original LR one , i.e more or less on full heat or no heat with nothing much in between.
Post #1052226 19th Nov 2024 6:00pm
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Tim300TDIMorts



Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chandlers Ford
Posts: 106
United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Epsom Green
Tim300TDIMorts wrote:
Hi guys. I fitted mine this afternoon but it seems that the hot water isnt getting through as the part is warm to touch but the pipes the other side aren’t. Almost like there’s an air lock. Any ideas?


Sorted it. I hadn’t fixed the cable in place. Ha
Post #1052231 19th Nov 2024 6:37pm
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Dio



Member Since: 21 Nov 2024
Location: Nicosia
Posts: 2
Cyprus 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
materoforion wrote:

Click image to enlarge
Hey! Jus wanted to credit @newhue for the great idea. I have 110 Puma and I was on my 3rd Heater valve and I've had enough.

Googled and found this thread and tried it out. I can confirm that this heater valvel works, the cabling I still have to work on but the interim solution works (in reverse order).

Just tested this setup for 50kms, will try to update longevity of this setup.

For anyone interested, here's some links from the items I used.

Heater valve - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/253917762669

I've puchased OEM like valves, and here's the link to that valve - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/402906245688


Hit me up if there's any questions.

Click image to enlarge


Dear materoforion,
It is my first time in the group after not solving the heater valve problem.
how is your heater valve going so far?
Could you make a video of your modification?
The Intergrated 316 valve is stanning but far too expensive and not in stock yet
Thank you
Post #1052395 21st Nov 2024 10:58am
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 81
Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
There are two issues with the stock heater valve. They can develop leaks and they don't fully seal the passages either when fully open and/or fully closed. Leaks are an obvious issue. Not fully closing is only apparent in either very warm or very cold weather.

I have bought aftermarket valves, genuine valves and genuine valves from FIAT and others. The aftermarket valves are the worst but none of them actually seal completely.

I have also purchased the AC heater valve pictured above. It is originally off a Ford. I have bought both aftermarket and OEM. They also don't completely seal at either extreme.

Does it matter? At -30 or +30 it sure as %$# does.

What I'm experimenting with right now is using a brass, 4-way, L-gate, ball valve. They seal so well you can apply a strong vacuum and there are still no leaks. The big plus is that the valves are cheap. I bought two for $40/£20 off amazon.

It is all unalloyed joy? Of course not. The secure seal also means that the lever is stiff to move so you can't use the stock, plastic control. I'm fitting a vernier bowden cable from an aircraft supplier. I'll post photos as I go along...

Last edited by jbcollier on 22nd Nov 2024 12:07am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1052420 21st Nov 2024 2:22pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 81
Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Valve as purchased:


Click image to enlarge

Modified:


Click image to enlarge

Last edited by jbcollier on 21st Nov 2024 5:41pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1052421 21st Nov 2024 2:26pm
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Dio



Member Since: 21 Nov 2024
Location: Nicosia
Posts: 2
Cyprus 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
Good job, please keep us posted and for the cable as well
Post #1052423 21st Nov 2024 2:44pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 81
Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

Click image to enlarge

I finished the valve and have it installed without the cable. Works good. This is a valve with 5/8" fittings. I have ordered one with 3/4" fittings as I think that will fit the hoses better. No leaks, mind, just want it to be fit and forget with the stock clamps. I had to fit adjustable clamps to two of the fittings.
Post #1052471 22nd Nov 2024 12:21am
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3641
United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
just check your antifreeze and metals compatability with the brass DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #1052474 22nd Nov 2024 6:30am
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3275
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I think some London black cabs use a brass hcv. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #1052480 22nd Nov 2024 7:40am
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