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NormanD



Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: Bristol
Posts: 287
England 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Porny, whens the next batch due? NormanD WE191

2015 110 XS Utility
2014 VW Caravelle 180 Executive
Post #1052195 19th Nov 2024 3:23pm
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Tim300TDIMorts



Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chandlers Ford
Posts: 108
United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Epsom Green
Hi guys. I fitted mine this afternoon but it seems that the hot water isnt getting through as the part is warm to touch but the pipes the other side aren’t. Almost like there’s an air lock. Any ideas?
Post #1052217 19th Nov 2024 6:03pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2247
United Kingdom 
Re: IRB valve
Andy T wrote:
Zed wrote:
My IRB heater control valve arrived last week. Sadly I haven’t had a chance to fit but it truly is a thing of beauty. It deserves to be hung in the Louvre not hidden under my bonnet!
Cheers Ian.


Agree far too beautiful to fit Laughing
However mine is in place and working beautifully, thank you Ian 'Porny' Bow down


So do you have better control of the heat level via the control on the dash. Or is it like the Original LR one , i.e more or less on full heat or no heat with nothing much in between.
Post #1052226 19th Nov 2024 7:00pm
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Tim300TDIMorts



Member Since: 04 Jan 2017
Location: Chandlers Ford
Posts: 108
United Kingdom 1997 Defender 90 300 Tdi SW Epsom Green
Tim300TDIMorts wrote:
Hi guys. I fitted mine this afternoon but it seems that the hot water isnt getting through as the part is warm to touch but the pipes the other side aren’t. Almost like there’s an air lock. Any ideas?


Sorted it. I hadn’t fixed the cable in place. Ha
Post #1052231 19th Nov 2024 7:37pm
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Dio



Member Since: 21 Nov 2024
Location: Nicosia
Posts: 2
Cyprus 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
materoforion wrote:

Click image to enlarge
Hey! Jus wanted to credit @newhue for the great idea. I have 110 Puma and I was on my 3rd Heater valve and I've had enough.

Googled and found this thread and tried it out. I can confirm that this heater valvel works, the cabling I still have to work on but the interim solution works (in reverse order).

Just tested this setup for 50kms, will try to update longevity of this setup.

For anyone interested, here's some links from the items I used.

Heater valve - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/253917762669

I've puchased OEM like valves, and here's the link to that valve - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/402906245688


Hit me up if there's any questions.

Click image to enlarge


Dear materoforion,
It is my first time in the group after not solving the heater valve problem.
how is your heater valve going so far?
Could you make a video of your modification?
The Intergrated 316 valve is stanning but far too expensive and not in stock yet
Thank you
Post #1052395 21st Nov 2024 11:58am
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 202
Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
There are two issues with the stock heater valve. They can develop leaks and they don't fully seal the passages either when fully open and/or fully closed. Leaks are an obvious issue. Not fully closing is only apparent in either very warm or very cold weather.

I have bought aftermarket valves, genuine valves and genuine valves from FIAT and others. The aftermarket valves are the worst but none of them actually seal completely.

I have also purchased the AC heater valve pictured above. It is originally off a Ford. I have bought both aftermarket and OEM. They also don't completely seal at either extreme.

Does it matter? At -30 or +30 it sure as %$# does.

What I'm experimenting with right now is using a brass, 4-way, L-gate, ball valve. They seal so well you can apply a strong vacuum and there are still no leaks. The big plus is that the valves are cheap. I bought two for $40/£20 off amazon.

It is all unalloyed joy? Of course not. The secure seal also means that the lever is stiff to move so you can't use the stock, plastic control. I'm fitting a vernier bowden cable from an aircraft supplier. I'll post photos as I go along...

Last edited by jbcollier on 22nd Nov 2024 1:07am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1052420 21st Nov 2024 3:22pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 202
Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
Valve as purchased:


Click image to enlarge

Modified:


Click image to enlarge

Last edited by jbcollier on 21st Nov 2024 6:41pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1052421 21st Nov 2024 3:26pm
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Dio



Member Since: 21 Nov 2024
Location: Nicosia
Posts: 2
Cyprus 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Santorini Black
Good job, please keep us posted and for the cable as well
Post #1052423 21st Nov 2024 3:44pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 202
Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White

Click image to enlarge

I finished the valve and have it installed without the cable. Works good. This is a valve with 5/8" fittings. I have ordered one with 3/4" fittings as I think that will fit the hoses better. No leaks, mind, just want it to be fit and forget with the stock clamps. I had to fit adjustable clamps to two of the fittings.
Post #1052471 22nd Nov 2024 1:21am
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LR90XS2011



Member Since: 05 Apr 2011
Location: bickenhill
Posts: 3664
United Kingdom 2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
just check your antifreeze and metals compatability with the brass DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS,

I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy
Post #1052474 22nd Nov 2024 7:30am
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Zed



Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: In the woods
Posts: 3355
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
I think some London black cabs use a brass hcv. WARNING.
This post may contain sarcasm.
Post #1052480 22nd Nov 2024 8:40am
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 202
Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
I've got it all in and it works just fine. May not fit a separate control cable. Going to explore fitting a spiral return spring first.

It's not an easy conversion as you do a fair bit of silver-soldering. If I was doing it again, I just buy the high-zoot, fabricated valve. Was interesting exploring and testing all the options.
Post #1053067 27th Nov 2024 1:02am
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Owen_91



Member Since: 11 Jun 2024
Location: Southampton
Posts: 3
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Alaska White
Bump again for this thread - the integrated316 website is showing delivery expected March 2025 (now?). Are these still on track?
Post #1062879 14th Mar 2025 1:13pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17711
United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
In case it is of interest to anyone, last week my heater valve failed, the second in 18 years, in exactly the same way as the original one did several years ago, namely it became impossible to turn the hot water flow off (the lever moves freely but something inside the valve has broken). Nothing leaked, it just wasn't possible to turn the heat off.

I have had a second-hand genuine valve in the spares box since the last failure which I fitted, but to replace the spare I ordered up one of the cheap Chinesium ones from Ebay for about £28. It arrived very quickly and seems to be every bit as good in terms of quality as the original (whichI acknowledge is not setting the bar very high since the originals are frankly embarrassing). It works perfectly when subjected to the "blow" test.

Time will tell if it durable but since it was roughly one quarter the price of an original piece of plastic junk if it lasts even half the time it is still a winner. Fitting it took all of 5 minutes, involved negligible loss of coolant, and required no innovative engineering.
Post #1062894 14th Mar 2025 3:33pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2247
United Kingdom 
A question to those that have fitted ian’s ( porny on here) IRB / Integrated 316 heater valves ( made for him by design and development engineering I believe).

Do you have better control of the heat level via the control on the dash ? Or is it like the Original LR one , i.e more or less on full heat or no heat with nothing much in between ?
Post #1062896 14th Mar 2025 3:47pm
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