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22900013A



Member Since: 23 Dec 2010
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 3149

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Keswick Green
Such a pity as its a nice looking truck.
I must confess I thought they had leather gear knobs in the XS too, I don't remember my demo ones having rubber, but I wouldn't like to say for sure...
Hope all the issues get resolved quickly. 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton
1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker
1969 IIA 1-Ton
1966 IIA 88"
Post #59234 15th Feb 2011 4:44pm
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SJM



Member Since: 09 Dec 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 237

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
My '09 90XS SW has normal rubber gear knob. Neutral Simon
'11 Defender 110XS Utility SW
'07 Discovery 3 HSE
'58 Porsche 356A (not good off road)
'59 Lambretta (not good on or off road!)
Post #59235 15th Feb 2011 4:45pm
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alantd



Member Since: 14 Dec 2008
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 1513

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Tonga Green
I have the mantec RAI. I fitted it myself but they do have a gap between the curve and the body. I can't tell you how much until tomorrow night (when I get back to it) but I wouldn't worry too much about that. The plastic isn't meant to sit on the wing - it doesn't need it for support and is just shaped to bend round the wing.

Admittedly I can't recall my gap being that big but it could well be within tolerance. I'll try and take a photo tomorrow night from the same angle and post. One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition
Post #59245 15th Feb 2011 6:29pm
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18stone



Member Since: 16 Dec 2010
Location: Mid Essex
Posts: 137

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
THanks all for responses so far. The matter is still 'in negotiation'. The dealer principal can't believe the gap under the snorkel and is having it refitted by his bodyshop with a rubber pad shaped to fill the gap. At least aesthetically it will be better.

As far as the main problems are concerned work continues to get them to repeat (don't you love apparently intermittent faults!). His 35-year-LR mech is 'on the case'.

He is happy to refund in full if we choose to. He has said it drives as well (and better) than most he's driven. Lucky us, eh!?

The thing is, if we reject it and wait 4 months for another we could end up in the same position...

I really don't know what to do. The DP is and has been thoroughly reasonable since his intervention. D300 HSE 110
Post #59347 16th Feb 2011 9:54am
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
18stone wrote:


He is happy to refund in full if we choose to. He has said it drives as well (and better) than most he's driven. Lucky us, eh!?



Laughing

How long do have to reject it. I suppose it would be worth waiting until they diagnose the fault, it maybe something and nothing Neutral It could all turn out well in the end.

When I phoned Mantec for you they did say that some people put in a strip of something between the snorkel body and car panel and some seal it also to make it look neat!

Good luch with the diagnosis..........
Post #59357 16th Feb 2011 11:16am
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daviec1



Member Since: 30 Nov 2010
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 246

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Bonatti Grey
I would be looking on it like this:

I have waited a long time to get a particular model, with various additions etc.

This vehicle is not suitable and not as I ordered.

Even if the dealer does fix all the problems, it is still not a new car. It is a fixed car.

I would be wondering when the next thing to go wrong would happen (over & above "normal" Land Rover ownership issues)

Me? I would give it back, get my cash back and, most importantly, threaten to go to a different dealer unless replacement was perfect "out the box".

Just my tuppence worth.

Good luck! 2001 TD5 110 DCPU in Bonatti Grey
Post #59363 16th Feb 2011 12:47pm
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18stone



Member Since: 16 Dec 2010
Location: Mid Essex
Posts: 137

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Thanks so much again chaps. Bow down D300 HSE 110
Post #59368 16th Feb 2011 1:31pm
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
daviec1 wrote:
I would be looking on it like this:

I have waited a long time to get a particular model, with various additions etc.

This vehicle is not suitable and not as I ordered.

Even if the dealer does fix all the problems, it is still not a new car. It is a fixed car.


I see your point - but how many new cars have similar problems, but because they get picked up and fixed at PDI you would never know?

If they fix everything and do the job they should have done before delivery it may be worth accepting it on the basis that it has had a thorough sort out.

It would also save the wait for a replacement. John

http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk

2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS
Post #59383 16th Feb 2011 2:57pm
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SJM



Member Since: 09 Dec 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 237

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
I'm with JSG on this one. Plus, you seem to be getting good support from the DP Simon
'11 Defender 110XS Utility SW
'07 Discovery 3 HSE
'58 Porsche 356A (not good off road)
'59 Lambretta (not good on or off road!)
Post #59390 16th Feb 2011 3:51pm
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mrandmrsh



Member Since: 31 May 2010
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 692

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
daviec1 wrote:

Me? I would give it back, get my cash back and, most importantly, threaten to go to a different dealer unless replacement was perfect "out the box".


I like to think I would think the same but when the time came and it is here I would actually just want it sorting as I would want my car ASAP rather than avoid the 4 month wait.

In reality if the dealer did their job properly and spotted the odd noise and sorted it before you had it then you would be none the wiser. Now, if they sort it, should there be any kind of reoccurrence you can say "we've been here before - get it done right this time".

The snorkel didn't look too odd to me to be honest - given the huge production tolerences in the Defender build I wouldn't expect it to be tight up to the wing as there will be plenty that would not fit if this was the case - the gap is almost the same as the gap between the wing and the bonnet.

The light guards are annoying - will fitting folding ones mean extra holes or will they use the same ones? I might go for compensation and leave the ones there that are there.

Hopefully they will sort it out and you will have it back soon.

Craig
Post #59395 16th Feb 2011 4:15pm
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G4sweep



Member Since: 24 Sep 2010
Location: Paderborn
Posts: 182

Germany 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Didn't think the RAI looked that bad, I have one fitted and have just been out to check how far off wing mine is and it's considerably more than your one. With regard the light guards is there a hinge at the bottom of them? I have screwed hinges at the bottom of mine but screws at the top, did think to get some of the twist lock clips from work off the wolfs!

And as Craig says above I'd stick with the vehicle get them to sort problems and ask for a bit of compo like money off servicing over next couple of years etc!!

Sweep Sweep
2.2 110 XS SW


----------------------------
Gone;
08 D3 XS
BN55 WPV G4 4.4V8 D3.
O7 G4 Mongolian Recce 110 USW
Post #59397 16th Feb 2011 4:42pm
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TC



Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 715

United Kingdom 
Did they tell you what the cluncking was Ade?
Post #59806 18th Feb 2011 10:25am
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18stone



Member Since: 16 Dec 2010
Location: Mid Essex
Posts: 137

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Right, it's back. The rear prop vibration clunking etc is still there but for some reason it only occurs in neutral when rolling up to stationary. If you flick it out of third to roll up to a standstill it's as if the spinning prop goes a little loose until it stops spinning. If you then put it in second to draw up to a stop it instantly goes. The DP acknowledges the problem and that LR haven't found a fix yet but he couldn't get it to repeat for himself. I did within 25 minutes of driving it home yesterday. If he was nearer I'd have taken it straight to him to demonstrate it. It does also only seem to occur having cruised at say 60 for a while then slowed into traffic, for example.

The snorkel fix is tidy and effective- a foam/rubber pad contoured to fill the gap pictured originally.

Other than that it's a dream to drive. I guess I'll just have to change my driving style to mitigate the problem.

I will however demonstrate the problem to my inde to see what he says. D300 HSE 110
Post #59814 18th Feb 2011 10:42am
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2409

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Wow. There might be a chance the UJ`s or yokes are wacked or not properly fitted at 30º out-of-phase. If you decide to keep it I would ask to check the rear diff, propshafts, Tbox and Gbox input and output shafts and for sure the clutch friction plate. Bottom line: it is not normal on a brand new car, even it is a Defender. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #59831 18th Feb 2011 12:02pm
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Ads90



Member Since: 16 Jun 2008
Location: Cots-on-the-Wolds
Posts: 809

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
18stone wrote:
Right, it's back. The rear prop vibration clunking etc is still there but for some reason it only occurs in neutral when rolling up to stationary. If you flick it out of third to roll up to a standstill it's as if the spinning prop goes a little loose until it stops spinning. If you then put it in second to draw up to a stop it instantly goes. The DP acknowledges the problem and that LR haven't found a fix yet but he couldn't get it to repeat for himself. I did within 25 minutes of driving it home yesterday. If he was nearer I'd have taken it straight to him to demonstrate it. It does also only seem to occur having cruised at say 60 for a while then slowed into traffic, for example.


Hi - I had a similar noise/cluck when I bought mine (2nd hand, with about 5K miles on it), which occurred only after journeys over say, 30 miles... It happened when cruising to a stop, or near stop. There was some suggestion that it was high-spots on the hand-brake linings catching the drum (when warm). I thought I'd wait until first service to have it looked at, but by then the problem had completely gone away, never to return. This may back up the theory of brake linings, I guess I'll never know!
Of course your issue may be different, but thought I'd throw that in...

On my previous Defender, I had factory fit front light guards. They were hinged at the bottom, but screwed at the top with two brass (IIRC) screws into threaded rivets, easy to remove and drop the guard. Are you sure these are not what you have? Apologies if not.
Post #59882 18th Feb 2011 5:15pm
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