geobloke wrote:

Well that worked out for the best... and Phew...

custom90steve wrote:

3m Blue tape would be ideal for that paint job when the time comes to neatly isolate the side panel.
Gives a superb clean edge, but comes off safely without bubbling or pulling up when painted.
Light plastic masking film to cover everything else, you can use paper mask but involves a lot of extra masking to keep it in place.

That’s what I use anyway, everyone has different ideas and products but like you say weather outdoor is critical but isn’t ideal for contamination without a cleanly paint booth but for a small area should sort that out.
You can get matching rivets for those also, I did have a few left over you could have but unfortunately I have no idea as to where they are currently or much hope in finding them but the dia and head matches the factory’s rivets.
Just be extra sure not to enlarge the holes when drilling the river centre out and protect the surrounding paint in case the drill bit snapped or anything slipped, or drill bit decides to go for a wander quite literally.

I tend to go for acid etch primer, then an epoxy primer that acts as a sealer, then the base then clear.
Might be able to get away with etch primer only there.

Be careful that the paint matches first too, I’ve found in 90% of the time the match is bang on but some places get it slightly to light or dark.

Thanks Steve. I seem to recall a post or two when you have repainted parts of the guttering. I think I am right in that recollection.

I already have the rivets thankfully as I have only recently fitted replacement c-pillar triangular panels.

What I have always wondered and have no idea about, happy to admit that, is how do you blend new paint with old paint...?! I could really do with watching someone do it first Anyway I have time because this has to be done outside and that cannot happen until Easter at the earliest.

blackwolf wrote:

Can I ask the source of your sealed relay box please? It looks rather good.