 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
 
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410  
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Ha... How is the rear treating you? |
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4th Sep 2023 11:43am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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My thoughts exactly. One day if the intermediate shaft needs sorting out etc...  Haven't rebuilt an LT230 yet... |
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4th Sep 2023 11:44am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5798 
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Rear(Salisbury) I think is OK, maybe some play in the shafts. To be looked at at a later date 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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4th Sep 2023 11:48am |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Yeah those rear drive flanges do wear relatively quickly, but I like having them as the weakest point in the system. Much easier to change than a diff or half shaft.
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4th Sep 2023 11:54am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5798
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Certainly easier to swap the drive flanges. I have a feeling some of the play is diff end/half shafts. 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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4th Sep 2023 12:08pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Quite possible. The Salisbury is renowned for play...
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4th Sep 2023 12:36pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17192 
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When I rebuilt my Disco2 LT230 at 220k miles there was absolutely no trace whatsoever of the thrust washers in the centre diff, you'd never know that there had ever been any fitted!
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4th Sep 2023 1:27pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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And that there is what worries me Blackwolf...
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4th Sep 2023 2:00pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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And whilst the sun is shining you'd better make hay...
From the above to...  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The only problem is that the grinder has died (new in May) and I still have the a-frame to do... Balls... Mind you the new ball joint has not arrived yet so hopefully get a replacement as it is under a year old. |
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5th Sep 2023 2:07pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5798
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Good to see the dog escaped the over spray
 1999 Defender TD5 110
Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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5th Sep 2023 2:08pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Ha Pi does love to sunbath. His sister was chillin' out in the kitchen.
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5th Sep 2023 2:15pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Whilst servicing Miffy the other weekend I noticed that the GORE fuel filter housing was suffering from awful corrosion around the four ports
 You can imagine my immediate reaction 
So I dropped the good people at GORE a line and asked them how to prevent the corrosion progressing any further and found out that the day afterwards they were closing up shop for good As a last act before closing GORE posted off their very last fuel filter housing to me. Which you have to agree speaks volumes to their mentality/honour/ethics/etc/etc... It would have been extremely easy for GORE to sign off and leave me hanging, but they did not and I am extremely grateful to them. They did say they had never had one of these filter housings corrode like this before.
So, galvanic corrosion... Some of you will know much much more than I do about it especially those that spend time in the marine environment where equipment is almost certainly spending extended amounts of time in the highly conductive sea. There in-lies part of the reason for galvanic corrosion, the immersion of metals in a conductive solution. If metals are left in an arid environment (ie no conductive fluid) then most metals will survive in the environment for a very long time. But... add water or worse water with salts in it and electrical connections are made, ions flow and one type of metal will corrode. "Ganlvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process by which one metal will corrode in preference to another it is in contact with by an electrolyte" In the case of the fuel filter housing the metals are brass (ports), copper (washers) and aluminium (GORE housing). Add (I suspect) a good dose of council approved road salt in Wales' best H2O and you have a ready supply of electrolyte. Galvanic corrosion ensues. Although I would have expected that the anodising surface would prevent it, but obviously not. Incidentally, this is the same reason the standard fuel filter housing corrodes. It is interesting that the corrosion occurred beyond the sealing washers, maybe they are responsible for removing the anodising and starting the corrosion. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The reason the housing has corroded rather than the copper or brass is that it is more canonic than copper and brass, see below chart https://www.mfcp.com/technical-info/galvanic-corrosion Click image to enlarge In the marine environment the usual method of preventing galvanic corrosion is to fix a zinc based sacrificial "anode" to structures so it corrodes rather than your equipment. Now I have seen people fitting these zinc anodes to the chassis' of their Land Rovers and I expect it helps, but how much I do not know. The other way to prevent or reduce galvanic corrosion is to use non-conductive grease between components (such as Duralac or other) or physical barriers (such as plastic or rubber). It may be interesting to know that one of the best and most readily available non-conductive greases is in fact a lanolin based grease, like that sold by Lanoguard, along with its anti-seize properties. So coating your chassis and components in something like Lanoguard not only provides a physical barrier but a non-conductive, anti-galvanic corrosion barrier as well. Interesting eh?! So, the plan for this fuel filter housing is to use the Lanoguard mechanics grease on the threads of the ports, a Dowty washer (as a physical barrier) and to top that off a liberal spray of conventional Lanoguard once fitted. To be honest I am thinking of a (for want of a better description) shower cap over the top as well to keep the worst of the wheel arch spray off the housing. It is possibly one reason why the fuel filter stone shield was revised for the Pumas. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Also, check out the shiny brass ports... Have to love the heated white vinegar and salt cleaning method. Once again, thanks to GORE for the replacement  |
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12th Sep 2023 5:26pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6071 
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That's good customer service especially from a company closing "tomorrow", most wouldn't give a flying f.
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12th Sep 2023 6:09pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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Yeah I was nicely surprised to be honest. Such a pity they are stepping back from the LR accessories market.
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12th Sep 2023 8:49pm |
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