 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Roof Spot lights and A bar spots |
 
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| fekete Member Since: 24 Dec 2008 Location: Here on the other end of the computer Posts: 3626   
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Nice one Paul where do's the battery one go to number 86 then ? NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY
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19th Jan 2011 7:25pm |
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| Paul_1978 Member Since: 08 Nov 2009 Location: South Yorkshire Posts: 384  
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You can run one in from the battery + terminal, or find a spare in the fuse box.
Remember to fuse as close as you can to the + connection. If you want them controlled off the switch, at the relay, wire connections No 30 & No 86 together, rest as per diagram. Want me to come and do it for you?  |
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19th Jan 2011 7:31pm |
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| fekete Member Since: 24 Dec 2008 Location: Here on the other end of the computer Posts: 3626
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 it would save you a lot of time trying to explain it to me .......i think i've got it now thanks ill try it and let you know.....i will be back when i need advice with the roof spots as there is 4 and i need 2 relays wiring together  NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY |
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19th Jan 2011 7:38pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038 
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WHen wiring a relay you have 4 points
a ground for the relay (triggers) a positive for the relay (triggers) The excites the circuit and links the +ve in and out of the relay one...just like a big switch The feed requires very little current around 1amp You then have: A feed in (main load) A feed out (main load) This is for ease the the power from the battery to the light broken by the relay. Carrying a current up to the relay's max (ignoring wire lengths etc etc) Whether you switch the ground on and off or the live on and off, makes no difference - as we are switch the low current side of the relay. Nothing is live any more or less of the time! All you are doing is connecting either side of the trigger - stopping the power at a switch or stopping at a relay doesnt matter - in fact i would suggest stopping at a relay is better than the switch. As for uses - anything with a +ve feed i fuse - so in all my circuits the 1amp feed will be used at 1 amp and the load will be fused appropriately to the load so say 15amps etc Mike |
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19th Jan 2011 11:24pm |
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| mse Member Since: 06 Apr 2008 Location: UK Posts: 5038
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Its dead easy - you will be fine 
4 relays and a switch Power to the switch - power from the switch to the relay (x2 if only using one switch) at each relay Power from battery to relay Earth to relay Power from relay to lights Word of advice...wire you spotlights in equal pairs to the relay eg: external together, central together. That way they will be legal as spotlights and light equal. Its also easier to Identify a the failure (especially when you have 6 like i do on the disco) Mike |
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19th Jan 2011 11:28pm |
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| fekete Member Since: 24 Dec 2008 Location: Here on the other end of the computer Posts: 3626
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Cheers Mike i'm full of confidence after all your help and the diagram's of you and Paul
 NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY |
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20th Jan 2011 9:01am |
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| kingofthesparks Member Since: 06 Jan 2011 Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants Posts: 987 
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Any reason you could not use a larger (amp rating) relay and run 4 spots from one relay?
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20th Jan 2011 2:08pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Don't see why not as long as everything is suitably rated/fused.
However you would lose 'flexibility' i.e. all 4 on or off Having them wired in pairs you can try different light combinations and find out what is best for the conditions you are driving in. Top lights I recommend NOT wiring through the main beam switch. OK that is illegal for UK road use. However if/when the main light switch melts/fails you have an independent set of lights to drive by. It can be rather useful if your main light switch fails as you go around hairpin bends. A useful back up
Brendan |
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20th Jan 2011 2:26pm |
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| kingofthesparks Member Since: 06 Jan 2011 Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants Posts: 987
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want to fit worklight on rear but want switch in dash, whats best way to route cable, assume that above roof lining is best, has anyone done this if so can it be fished or do i need to remove, also where is best to get a live feed to switch for triggering relay,
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27th Jan 2011 3:30pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Why a relay for a work light?
Why not use a LED light, much reduced current draw so no relay required. LED lights vary from about 1-10 watts in comparison to standard 55 watt work light. Yes LED lights cost more then cheapest worklight at about £10. LED start around £40+ and can get to extremely silly money If got roof rack fitted take wiring along roofrack, down snorkel through bulkhead into dash. HTH Brendan |
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27th Jan 2011 3:54pm |
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| alantd Member Since: 14 Dec 2008 Location: Northamptonshire Posts: 1513 
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@leeds: got any good LED worklights you could recommend? I want to get one but I assume there are good 'uns and bad 'uns One that started out as a 2.4 TDCi 110 XS
+ New Defender 110 First Edition |
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27th Jan 2011 4:10pm |
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| PaulMc Member Since: 17 Jan 2009 Location: Kent Posts: 502 
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I drew that that diagram and if you look at it, you'll see that the switch IS switching the earth side of the relay. If YUG000540LNF is wired in any other way, the illumination and tell-tale LEDs don't work. Although, with a simple internal modification, YUG000540LNF can be turned into a 'traditional' live-switching switch, details here - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic552-15.html
How would you wire it then?
. Paul. 1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop 1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS' |
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27th Jan 2011 5:02pm |
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| JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412 
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Bear in mind that LED lights give you a much narrower spread of beam than a halogen lamp. John http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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27th Jan 2011 5:11pm |
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| kingofthesparks Member Since: 06 Jan 2011 Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants Posts: 987
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thats why i want a traditional one, has anyone run cables above headlining and how easy was it
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27th Jan 2011 5:47pm |
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