 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > fitting stainless sills, removing old bolts... |
 
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| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471   
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If they just run into nuts on the underside then just grind the heads off [with an angle grinder]. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
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7th Jul 2016 11:50am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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those are M10 i believe and go into nuts on the under side. I actually think the nuts might be in the channel of the sill too. They will definately be caked in mud and crap underneath.
Even given all that I would try and get a socket on the nut underneath and then try it from there. I did mine with a 18v rattle gun which got them out ok after some swearing. If that doesnt work id drill them out from above, or possibly grind the head off, again from above. some advice when you replace, would be to ensure you buy a bolt with no more length than is necessary as this will make it easier to remove the next time. |
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7th Jul 2016 11:55am |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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I recognise that photo! Shame the rocksliders don't look like that anymore - about to be replaced. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
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7th Jul 2016 12:01pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3743
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^ Sorry I took it from google images
Good to hear not just me that had problems with these heads...I will get them off somehow!! The new bolts that came with the kit are much shorter and generally look much better quality so hopefully re fitting will be easier... |
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7th Jul 2016 7:36pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3743
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Well what a pain in the flipping neck...
Getting the old bolts off.... I did it but it involved a drill !! I was even thinking should I re-drill the sills but didn't fancy that either.  Click image to enlarge So they are off ready for me to clean everything, rust proof and then fit the silent coat up to them and carpet I've 3 others left to do aarrrgghhh  |
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8th Jul 2016 7:40pm |
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| Chris86 Member Since: 15 Jul 2014 Location: South Yorks Posts: 787 
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Small set of mole grips was the weapon of choice when I removed my floors last....
You'll need to replace the bolts with new though afterwards- they make a right mess of the heads! Chris |
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8th Jul 2016 8:08pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1762 
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Easy outs,
Impact driver, Grinding a slot in the head. Some combination of the above usually works!! |
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8th Jul 2016 10:56pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3743
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OK so 3 hours later one side of the car is done with new bolts, washers, rust prevention and silent coat noise deadening fitted,
Rear bolts un done and cleaned ready to rust proof and refit Click image to enlarge Rear fitted, doubt the kids will even spot them 
Click image to enlarge Front ones... with original carpet back in (over silent coat) Click image to enlarge Then with rubber mat and over mat... Click image to enlarge Looks pretty smart so I'm happy although I thought would be a quick job.....  Might treat it to some new over mats next.
Just need to do the passenger side now !!! aarrgghh |
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9th Jul 2016 2:17pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629 
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After all that work is it any quieter?
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9th Jul 2016 3:20pm |
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| Stacey007 Member Since: 25 Sep 2015 Location: Cheshire Posts: 3743
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^ Hello
I've not done all the truck yet. Rear load area and over rear arches Rear second row foot well Front Drivers side under mat both front doors. I would say up to around 40 mph so far yes, a little better. Over that harder to tell as other noises such as the wind take over  The doors shut with a thud though and adding more will help with the noise I'm sure. Its Never going to be quite.
I do wonder if more under the bonnet would help also It's on my list |
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9th Jul 2016 6:38pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20283
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I've got to do my doors with Dynamat too.
The good thing with soundproofing within SS sills also is the soundproofing is a good isolator too. That helps dissimilar metal corrosion prevention. |
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9th Jul 2016 6:46pm |
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