 | Home > Td5 > TD5 engine removal... |
 
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just wondering what I'll come up against. Haven't found a great deal of stuff of the web so please share any good links!
| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2229   
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The engine out is by far the most comfortable way to change the clutch and you'll have enough room to check and do everything comfortably.
I have Tdis but the principals are the same. Disconnect fuel, coolant, intercooler and electrical connections. Remove fan and fan cowl. Remove radiator and intercooler. Undo engine mounts. Unbolt bell housing. Hoist out. Allow a whole weekend if it's your first time. Hiring a hoist will give you a measure of mobility to get the engine clear of the engine bay. I've hired one on the last two occasions but next time I think I'll buy one. HTH Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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19th Feb 2016 7:27am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17387 
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It is quite possible to do it with a static hoist and by rolling the vehicle.
Obviously you'll need to be sensible with your backyard scaffold (definitely not ok in a work environment!) since you don't want an RSJ with a TD5 landing on your noggin. A lever hoist (I assume you mean the Pullift type) is not the most ideal but will do the job provided that it is of sufficient capacity. Good luck! |
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19th Feb 2016 9:40am |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2647 
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I've done it both ways.
Used to use a fixed hoist on a roof beam and then roll the vehicle out from underneath. This works fine, so long as you have the space and the ground is flat so you can push the car back. I did then buy an engine crane though, which I have also used successfully. Bit more versatile tool but there's not much in it in terms of ease I would say when it comes to taking an engine out. On rougher ground it is easier to move a vehicle with its big wheels than an engine crane with little castors. |
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19th Feb 2016 12:32pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006 
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Personally I'd go gearbox out for a clutch change. Far easier than pulling the motor out but that's just me....
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19th Feb 2016 8:47pm |
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| srod Member Since: 20 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 190 |
Cheers all for the shared experience.
I attempted to build a scaffold structure today. I can't get the height or sturdiness that I need with the gear I have, so an engine crane might be the easiest option. But will see what comes up - glad to hear it's doable. Last edited by srod on 19th Feb 2016 8:54pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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19th Feb 2016 8:51pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006
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To be honest in the time you've taken to build scaffolding or gone to get a crane the box would be out on the floor. I do them in two lumps so split the transfer box from the gearbox and can comfortably do a clutch change in 4 hours....
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19th Feb 2016 8:53pm |
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| srod Member Since: 20 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 190 |
I'm still open to either method!
How do you lower/support the boxes? Crane or jack?- Or are you saying by splitting the transfer and gear boxes it makes them man-handleable? |
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19th Feb 2016 8:59pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006
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Yes it does. I generally do them on my own but I'm a big lump and it is easier with two people.
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19th Feb 2016 9:05pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006
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Lift each lump out by hand
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19th Feb 2016 9:05pm |
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| srod Member Since: 20 Mar 2015 Location: Argyll Posts: 190 |
Are you doing this on a lift? I'll be lying on driveway...!
I'll have a think about that method, might jack down each box rather than lifting it though. What additonal problems could separating the two boxes create? |
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19th Feb 2016 9:18pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006
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Normally do them lying in 8" of coal and water to be honest. No additional problems to be had. There are two shorter bolts that go into the front face of the transfer box. These must go back into the same location as if you put a long one into the front it locks the intermediate gear up. There is a coolant line running around the back of the head that has tabs bolted onto the two top bellhousing bolts. Take the bolts out and bend the tabs on the line up out of the way with a pair of pliers.
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19th Feb 2016 9:22pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006
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And I normally remove the handbrake drum, backplate complete with shoes (only 4 bolts takes seconds) and the damper weight from the transfer box to make it more manageable.
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19th Feb 2016 9:24pm |
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| Riccarton Member Since: 10 Aug 2015 Location: Gods' Own Country Posts: 280 
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The human body makes one of the most compliant gearbox support cushions known to man
However, IMHO don't try it with your head at the bell housing end  |
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19th Feb 2016 9:33pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
or make one these
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=...fb24d34266 |
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19th Feb 2016 9:40pm |
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