 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Shaggydogs Running Restoration |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20468  
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9th Sep 2014 7:52pm |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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glad you got it sorted mate
fingers crossed for plenty of trouble free miles My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
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9th Sep 2014 8:19pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 
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Having spoken about it elsewhere thought I might shed some light on the mod.
The standard rear diff pan on a Salisbury axle is a bolt on steel pressing. This is different to the standard rover version which is a permanently welded on plate. The standard rover offering has a tapered filler plug which will seal as it is screwed in and then only needs nipping up. The Salisbury version however has a Parallel thread which means the thread has to do the sealing, ether relying on PTFE thread or some form of thread locker to seal. The problem with the standard parralel thread is that if your mechanic is not very familiar with them they can inadvertently wind the plug in too far and ether wind it into the casing itself meening you have to strip the axle down to recover it, or (what happened to me) it come into contact with the Diff cage and it get bitten off damaging the plate, plug and possibly the diff in the same instance. So how to rectify this I measured the thread and found the Salisbury diff pan filler plug to be 3/4"BSP, so I nipped off down to screwfix and bought a flanged plug for £0.89 Bargin! As my existing cover plate was now damaged I bought a new plate and gasket to fit.  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge The filler plug I bought was a bit long, so I chucked it up in a lathe and cut it down so that it didnt protrude beyond the end of the pressing. Note how thin the pressing actually is! care must be taken not to over tighten it and deform the plate. Click image to enlarge I then gave the whole lot a rub down and gave it a few coats of black paint so give it some protection from the winter salt. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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4th Oct 2014 10:10am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Ordered some new door hinges on Sunday and they arrived today.
In a word, they are shocking! They move more than my existing ones! What do we think? The pin is so sloppy in the hole it doesn't even stay in, the whole lot moves around and twists and clicks so is completely useless as a hinge rebuild exercise. I wont name and shame supplier yet as I am yet to bring it to there attention, but what on earth! Think I will be getting some Genuine TD5 ones. |
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9th Oct 2014 7:45pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Well, what has been going on.
Firstly lots of bits have been arriving in boxes, mostly boring bits like trim clips and bolts and odd sods but recently more exciting bits have turned up like door bottoms, repair panels and today...... Replacement hinges! Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge These are much improved over the original ones which were supplied (see above) which were returned in exchange for these nice shiny galvanised TD5 type hinges with no rattles and pins which fit the holes and don't fall out! After a unpack and quick wipe over with some cellulose thinners they have received a good coating of Etch Primer which should give a good tough base for the top coat to go onto. Click image to enlarge CSK eat your heart out 
Hopefully this thread should start picking up a bit now as parts are actually arriving and starting to happen so hopefully my updates should be more interesting  |
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13th Oct 2014 6:26pm |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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whats the difference between the td5 ones and older ones? My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
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13th Oct 2014 7:01pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Weirdly the TD5 ones are heavier duty. I think its the only thing that actually got beefed up with later defenders rather than skimped down on.
They also have a Nylon bush inside the hinge which helps stop water ingress and gives a better action on the hinge which should (fingers crossed) mean they last longer. The older versions are exactly the same as what would have been fitted to a series 2A and are a bit more agricultural. The casting is lighter and the pin is just hammered into the hinge hole which is a bit dodgy. Especially when you hammer a taper pin into a parallel hole, drilled on the  and out of line as you can see above! |
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13th Oct 2014 7:11pm |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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cheers shaggy My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
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13th Oct 2014 8:11pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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In case you looking at changing them I got them from here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Defen...35cbe05628
Good set, all the nuts and bolts and gaskets included |
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13th Oct 2014 8:51pm |
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| g-mack Member Since: 07 Jan 2014 Location: northumberland Posts: 1967
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added to the ever expanding watch list
 cheers My 109 thread
my youtube channel |
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13th Oct 2014 9:45pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Hi Guys,
Well what a day. Woke up a bit late and fuzzy headed from a party the night before and stated moving stuff (very very quietly and slowly) from the garage to various places around the house. Eventually the time came and tentatively we edged her back into the garage. Once she was (just) inside work began in earnest. Click image to enlarge The area which is receiving the most attention. The top hinge came apart quite easily which was a relief. Click image to enlarge The bottom hinge however was a right both top and bottom pocket nuts span and had to have there heads drilled off. This was a pain as when trying to drill the bolt, the drill span the bolt. In the end I had to stick a screwdriver into the gap between the hinge and bulkhead in order to hold it still enough to drill the head off.
Click image to enlarge Succsess! Click image to enlarge Oh deer. What a mess. I looks like it has been welded before with a weld on patch, but instead of cutting out the rot and letting in new, it has just been welded on top allowing the rust to fester further and create the rot spot I have now! Stay tuned tomorrow for more updates! |
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26th Oct 2014 8:00pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Got a bit more carried away after dinner
Click image to enlarge Dashboard comes apart fairly easily with screws. Take the top row out, the sides and then the dash binnical and wiggle it forward and rotate down and it should (note should  ) come out.
Click image to enlarge The hinge blocks were removed as they were very very warn. As Mr Foley said when I went up to see him " I've never seen one that bad" Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Behind the hinge was not any where as bad as I had feared. The only worry was the amount of aluminium corrosion on the windscreen surround. More updates tomorrow! Bed time.. |
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27th Oct 2014 12:23am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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LUUUNCH TIME!
Progress is knocking on very well. Click image to enlarge To access the bolts which hold the windscreen on (all 3 of them) I had to remove the side of the dash binnical. This houses the control levers for the heater direction and temperature levers. Much to my annoyance I found the previous person in there has broken my dash plastic bit. I'm not sure how to fix this but hopefully by the time i come to reassemble it I will have found a solution. Click image to enlarge This revealed a much nicer surprise than the other side. The top bolt however needed drilling out as it was completely seized into the block but this was done surprisingly easily. Click image to enlarge Next off came the spare wheel and then the bonnet to give better access for the grinder to get in when the inevitable comes 
Click image to enlarge In order to get the windscreen frame out, you need to remove the headlining. This was planned anyway as the roof and rear sides have to be lifted too. The trim comes out in a sort of fashion, Un-pop all the clips and bin them, then carefully un-tuck it from both sides of the roof gutter then wiggle it out. Keep an eye out for cables running to the interior lights and ultrasonic sensors. Much to my annoyance I discovered a thin layer of mould forming on one roof panel so will have to get the sealant out again 
Click image to enlarge The front windscreen is bolted on with a large (almost woodworking) screw in the corner (which is nearly totally useless!!) and then some bolts which bolt through onto a plate with a nut welded to it. The Bowler style holes are access holes so you can stick your fingers in and hold it steady while you unbolt, and then ultimately bolt up again. Now, enough writing back to work Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197
Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Oct 2014 1:27pm |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347
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Work slowed a bit in the afternoon.
This was due to helping my girlfriend who needed a hand with a sculpture which wasn't quite going to plan and running out of steam a bit. Click image to enlarge After a lot of jiggling, removing of bolts and wiggling and swearing under your breath and lifting the roof is now free from its mounts. If anyone was wandering, a 110 roof is very heavy. And surprisingly grippy as it grabs on everything from a half thread to a bit of rubber or even just goo. Only issue i can find so far is that the seal that holds the windscreen to the roof has been made from adamantium as it will not release. Does anyone have any tips to get it off? At this point I was getting tired and I was running out of helpers so the roof was chocked and should be lifted off tomorrow. Note the word should
Work then turned its attention to the bonnet. Click image to enlarge The sound deadening seems to do a good job, though it has seen better days. The wet patches are from water leaks which have filtered down through the holes around the poorly fitted bonnet spare mount. Click image to enlarge And here is the culprit! No reinforcement plates, no reinforcement sections and a lot of silicone sealant. Click image to enlarge Spot the difference! I had previously measured up and made a new reinforcing plate to accept where the mount had been previously misfitted. The replacement is 3mm thick hot rolled steel so plenty strong enough to support the additional weight and spread it around the steel ribbing. The L section steel ribs are also ready to be fitted to help further spread the load of the wheel. It then rapidly got dark so everything got locked up secure and a pint of beer was poured. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter |
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27th Oct 2014 6:37pm |
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