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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20563

United Kingdom 
Upgrade your speakers would be a good start. Laughing KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #177818 21st Oct 2012 8:51pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20563

United Kingdom 
Mine:

Click image to enlarge

For bass. Twisted Evil KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #177819 21st Oct 2012 8:52pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2651

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
would like to keep the cubby box the same but 'upgrade speakers is vague' if anyone has like a full system they have put in i.e. focal tweeters, alpine this or that...
Post #177821 21st Oct 2012 8:56pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20563

United Kingdom 
Upgrade in speakers is pretty specific actually it means what it say's. When you mention a "system" a sound "system" is made up of individual components such as upgrading speakers ... adding a subwoofer and amp. Changing the tweeters and so on. Everyone's set up is more or less individual and unique and built to their brand choice / their preferred requirements. Some like Bass some pure quality and so on. Mind you the Defender will always be a slight compromise with that with engine noise but none the less worthwhile. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #177828 21st Oct 2012 9:03pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2651

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
i did look into the twisted complete systems they do now, but the prices they are asking for the kit you get are rather on the high side was just wondering what other people had and found worked well..
Post #177839 21st Oct 2012 9:14pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20563

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What brand(s) of kit were they using do you know? For me Kenwood for the whole lot and Kicker for sub and amp. Focal seems a popular choice also. But as mentioned preference is more the thing than performance. I don't like or trust Alpine equipment but one man's meet is another man's poison. Each to their own. KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #177861 21st Oct 2012 10:16pm
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Honker



Member Since: 26 Jun 2011
Location: St Albans
Posts: 353

 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Corris Grey
custom90steve wrote:
Mine:

Click image to enlarge

For bass. Twisted Evil


Cool, a defender with a flux capacitor Very Happy

Stu

Pssst ...You appear to have a face hugging Alien thing living in your cubby box......
Post #177862 21st Oct 2012 10:22pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
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Honker wrote:

Cool, a defender with a flux capacitor Very Happy

You'd think so wouldn't you. Rolling with laughter KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #177864 21st Oct 2012 10:28pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2651

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
custom90steve wrote:
What brand(s) of kit were they using do you know? For me Kenwood for the whole lot and Kicker for sub and amp. Focal seems a popular choice also. But as mentioned preference is more the thing than performance. I don't like or trust Alpine equipment but one man's meet is another man's poison. Each to their own.


hertz, ranging from £799 - £2495 for a speaker kit without head unit.
Post #177866 21st Oct 2012 10:39pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2651

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Just been into the local car audio shop, i asked for a moderate sound system that will be a big improvement over the current, quoted £1200 for kit + then the labour to install which i will do myself anyway...

i think ill build my own kit,

could anybody recommend me a good amp to run with this? http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/cp212-w0v3-car-au...tems-93283

they recomended audison speakers, but the dash top tweeters are about £120 each, i don't think i need that performance but the land rover unit is lacking.
Post #179202 26th Oct 2012 4:21pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20563

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Way over priced! Ummm, for an Amp to match what you are looking at I would stick to the same brand as the sub for the amp. This way you keep good quality and they are better matched. The most crucial thing is that the RMS output of the amp is the same or within 5% (or close) difference of the subs RMS handling capability. My amp is 500w RMS and sub 450 RMS power so a little out but I went with this because A. I know I won't be turning it up stupid volume and B. My sub say's it can handle slightly more power than it's certified at. So in summary basically you want no more than +/- 50w RMS difference between the Amp and Sub and ideally they should actually match. For good quality kit and components all in you certainly shouldn't be spending more than £800 for the lot if you do it yourself unless of course you want very high power.. Hope this helps...

Thumbs Up KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #179219 26th Oct 2012 5:13pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2651

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
yeah, that was the price that i was budgeting for... will wait and see going to try somewhere else tomorrow too
Post #179220 26th Oct 2012 5:29pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20563

United Kingdom 
Did you want to do it yourself or are you looking for someone to do it for you? KEEP CALM AND Drill ON
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Post #179269 26th Oct 2012 7:05pm
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Likeomg



Member Since: 29 Jun 2012
Location: Lake District / Newcastle
Posts: 2651

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I can get it wired in by my dad and one of his friends, just need to buy the right kit to wire in...
Post #179287 26th Oct 2012 7:37pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6772

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
custom90steve wrote:
Way over priced! Ummm, for an Amp to match what you are looking at I would stick to the same brand as the sub for the amp. This way you keep good quality and they are better matched. The most crucial thing is that the RMS output of the amp is the same or within 5% (or close) difference of the subs RMS handling capability. My amp is 500w RMS and sub 450 RMS power so a little out but I went with this because A. I know I won't be turning it up stupid volume and B. My sub say's it can handle slightly more power than it's certified at. So in summary basically you want no more than +/- 50w RMS difference between the Amp and Sub and ideally they should actually match. For good quality kit and components all in you certainly shouldn't be spending more than £800 for the lot if you do it yourself unless of course you want very high power.. Hope this helps...

Thumbs Up


Surely you would be better getting a higher power amp and turning the gains right down so your using less power from the amp and distorting the sound less? Also a line driver can add power before your amp depending the voltage output of your headunit make your amps life easier. When buying amps look at the distortion level as you want the lowest you can afford (I always found) and the best quality speakers you can afford too. It has been a few years since I was into ice and a lot has changed from when Rockford fosgate used to be king as apparently they aren't very good anymore
Post #179333 26th Oct 2012 9:47pm
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