 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Needles (presumably from a bearing) in engine oil !!!! |
 
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184   
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... and hollow camshafts as well.
/Mat |
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26th Mar 2023 5:45pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999 
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Looks like you have it all under control, but thought I would post this link as it covers a lot of what you are doing, inc cam chain replacement, so might come in handy. https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic62281.html?highlight=head
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26th Mar 2023 6:17pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1402 
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The latest method of integrated manufacture fits the lobes on the cam, in the cam carrier.
No chance of changing just a camshaft or a bearing. &t=88s |
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26th Mar 2023 9:45pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17373 
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It's hard to understand the benefit in some of the "progress".
I suppose we should be thankful that the camshafts are removable on the Puma. |
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27th Mar 2023 6:09am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184
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Thanks Ianh, indeed, some good pointers in there. I have also been watching the full episodes of Nigel's 2.4 rebuild : https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLRAGQuX...3Hv0xRJ7TR which are very instructive and a must watch for anyone attempting a strip down / rebuild. /Mat |
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27th Mar 2023 8:26am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184
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UPDATE #4
And so the rebuilt has begun. New exhaust camshaft in, old cam carrier bolted on top of cylinder head with a reasonable amount of Loctite SI 5980 to prevent leaks, new camshaft sprockets, new timing chain, tensioner and guides. Timing was a breeze to set, new rocker arm with new bolts, happy to see everything turning and all valves being activated as expected when manually turning the crankshaft 
Some drops of new engine oil here and there to give everything a good start in life. New timing cover with again a reasonable amount of sealant, new crankshaft front seal. Alternator bracket, alternator and accessory belt bracket went back in. Some tips and tools, that some may find useful (or not) when attempting a similar job: 1 - I used BGS 9010 timing tool set kit, it comes with clear instructions, it has the sprocket locking pins and the flywheel locking pin, and the mandatory timing cover alignment tool. I did not use the tools for high pressure pump, and hopefully will never have to. However the crankshaft seal removal/install tool was only used for removing the old one as the latest version of the seal (LR077704) requires a new tool (JLR-303-1619) which costs 4 times the seal itself and that I also had to acquire 
2 - I did not remove the alternator, alternator bracket, and A/C compressor. I unbolted everything and repositioned all of it by the side in a way that is not interfering. Contrary to what the WS Manual says to remove and unplug everything. Saves from loosing A/C fluid etc. 3 - I did not remove the coolant pump. Again the WS Manual asks you to do so. That is just another thing to go wrong and leak when reassembling later on. The only reason for this is to access one of the 20 bolts securing the timing cover to the engine. This particular bolt is just behind the coolant pump pulley. But there is enough space to unscrew it almost 90% with a spanner, then cut it with and angle grinder. This is an M6 x 16mm, so when reassembling I used a similar bolt that I had shorten to say M6 x 10mm so it can be installed carefully- from the side without the need to remove the coolant pump. Setting the timing:  Click image to enlarge New rocker arm bridge: Click image to enlarge The blue timing cover alignment tool: Click image to enlarge The bolt hidden behind the coolant pump pulley: Click image to enlarge Starting to look like an engine again (almost): Click image to enlarge To be continued next weekend. Need to wrap up for the day as I'm running the Paris Marathon on Sunday, and need a bit of a rest before. That promise to be interesting as well with potential uncollected trash remaining in certain streets 
/Mat |
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1st Apr 2023 4:24pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184
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UPDATE #5 - FINAL and HAPPY END
Engine rebuild is now complete. New sump is installed. I could have reused the old one though as it went off easily with no damage. Cleaned the injector seats with BGS 9324 kit (nylon brush type of kit, not the cutter type one) for good measure. Very happy with the result. Then it was a matter of putting back the plastic valve cover with a new seal, injectors with new copper washers and new stretch bolts, reconnecting the fuel lines, making sure all looms, connectors, cable ties etc. were back in the same place as before (using pictures I took in anticipation - very helpful). Filled up with coolant, fresh oil, then turned the ignition key ... and it started with no drama after a few turns. I let it idling for a few minutes, then dropped the oil to inspect. Still some metallic particles can be seen so I'm not happy as yet. Another new oil filter went in, some new fresh oil as well, and this time I went for a 20 min drive, just to rev the engine a bit, get it to temp, and dropped the oil a second time. Oil is clean now! I'm happy. A new filter (the 3rd one) and again new fresh oil went in. One last 20 min drive to get it to temp, performed a high pressure pump reset and pilot correction learning. All Good. Drove the 110 with the family yesterday to visit my in laws for easter, that is about 70 km zero interest and boring drive. Not this time though, this time I had a big smile on my face all way long 
As a final picture, the underground parking where all this was done. The owners of the neighbouring cars did not ask questions, and I made sure I cleaned all stains on the ground as well
Thanks to all that provided guidance in here, you saved a 110 
Much appreciated. /Mat Click image to enlarge |
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10th Apr 2023 8:41am |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1402
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Well done for getting it all back together and running, and for being brave enough to get in there and do it.
The story has been a very interesting one, I hadn't heard of the issue before. I'm especially impressed with the last picture of your 'workshop', proving skill and ability has nothing to do with a shiny workshop.  |
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10th Apr 2023 9:38am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1782 
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+1 for a job well done in an underground car park in Paris.
After swearing profusely for an hour and a half changing the VCV today much to the entertainment and language building opportunity for the locals playing boule next door I tip my hat to you sir! Keith |
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10th Apr 2023 6:23pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39 
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Hi MatLandy
This article is very interesting as it has just happened to me. Can I ask if you found anything in the sump when you removed it and if you think this was worthwhile as this is the only thing I haven't done yet. I have everything striped down and ready to re-assemble and am just debating if the sump is necessary or not. I have all the bits except a tiny bit of the cradle casting. So there is a bit or 2 floating around somewhere. Interestingly mine was No 3 on the exhaust side as well. Thanks |
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27th Apr 2023 8:10pm |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1076  
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Brain surgery in an underground car park - amazing.
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28th Apr 2023 11:35am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184
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As it was suggested in your own separate thread by several knowledgeable people already, just drop the sump, it’s the only way to be sure I’m afraid. There was not much at the bottom of mine to be honest as most was caught either by the aftermarket magnetic drain plug I had and the oil filter. However, when the sump was out, I unbolted the plastic oil pick-up as there is a a grid inside it which also had caught some bits. In the end, very glad I did. I don’t think it is worth cutting corners. You can start reassembling the top anyway while you wait for a new sump to arrive, as this can be done at the very end of the rebuilt. Can ask if your camshaft was as damaged as mine? And what about your timing chain and guides? /Mat |
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28th Apr 2023 12:16pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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Thanks Mat for this. The conformation I needed.
Yes the cam was affected. In fact it was destroyed pretty much - See the attached images. Isn't it interesting that we have the same lifter fail - and I believe the guy in Australia did as well (and he replaced his whole engine). Here is what I think happened to mine: 1. The cam chain snapped last summer which I replaced 2. Although the Puma engine is meant to be a non- interference engine, I believe that there was some and this potentially fractured the cam cradle but it was not visible 3 After about 15k miles on the new chain, the cam cradle gave way 4 This broke loose together with the hydraulic lifter 5 This wedged itself under a cam lobe and wrenched it off the cam It was making a mother and father of knocking noises as I drove it home and made a very very loud high pitched scream as the cam lobe was being ripped off the actual cam. This shows the smashed cradle Click image to enlarge And here is the damaged cam Click image to enlarge and this is where I am at now.. Click image to enlarge Am all set to re-assemble, drop the sump and hopefully she will fire up like new! |
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28th Apr 2023 12:34pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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I think that if anyone has a chain snap on their engine, the hydrolic lifters and cradle should be replaced as a matter of course.
It might not be related of course but I believe it is. |
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28th Apr 2023 12:38pm |
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