 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Water outlet elbow seal 2.4 puma |
 
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414   
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LR004613….. but it could be part #3 from this:
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/l...ostat.html 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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25th Apr 2023 8:44pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999 
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I think the OP is referring to the item #5 which does have an O ring shown separately but not listed as a separate part.
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...sing_44998 #5 is listed as Coolant Outlet Pipe -LR004463. The cheapest I can see as a gen LR new part is £29.45 inc postage https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFE...ect=mobile So I would remove the O ring, measure internal diameter, external diameter and material diameter and look for a generic O ring that matches it Alternatively see if ford do the O ring separately as it’s a ford part. It will likely have the ford part number as part of the casting on the metal coolant outlet elbow. I think the ford part numbers for the metal coolant elbow are 6C10-8250AA and 6C1Q-8250-AA. |
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25th Apr 2023 9:37pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184  
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When I recently changed the exhaust camshaft and timing chain on my 2.4, I also bumped into this o-ring not being easily available as a standalone item. In the end I re-use the old one as it was in good condition so couldn’t understand why a new one was absolutely required. No leaks so far.
/Mat |
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26th Apr 2023 8:46am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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So often, O rings change their profile from round to a more squarish shape, and loose their ability to seal reliably. If caught in a pinch, I wind a couple of PTFE thread sealant tape inside the groove where the O ring sits, and that expands the O ring just enough to make a good seal again. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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27th Apr 2023 5:05am |
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| hornet Member Since: 04 Jan 2010 Location: Western Europe Posts: 361 |
W706722S300
 Last edited by hornet on 27th Apr 2023 9:47am. Edited 1 time in total |
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27th Apr 2023 7:26am |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39 
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Thanks everyone. I think the tape sounds a great plan - but I decided that as I had removed this once last summer already it was to much of a risk to have water in the oil.
The part number Ihnh listed is the correct one and I found one on a Transit parts website for £20. Here is the link if you are interested... https://tpuk.net/land-rover-defender-ford-...4-mk7.html The original seal did look ok and tape would probably work. If the part was £60 I would probably do the tape. Excellent advice from all as usual which is why this forum is great. Thanks |
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27th Apr 2023 7:34am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3414
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I find that when I use the tape trick, the O ring last longer. Probably because the O ring is already deformed, so cannot deform further
 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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27th Apr 2023 7:40am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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Nice find Hornet...  that ford part number is also shown as 1098190, and a search brings up more results on that part, albeit’s still circa £8 for an O ring !!!! |
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27th Apr 2023 11:59am |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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Agreed - nice find and thanks for sharing. Yes I agree £8 for an O ring seems a lot if the new complete bit is only £25. I should have waited and save a tenner!
Once I get the new one I will compare the old against new and add an image showing what they look like side by side so others can compare in the future and decide if a new O ring is a good idea or not. This weekend I am hoping to get my Landy re-built after a hydraulic lifter on the Cam Cradle disintegrated. Quite a big job but it has actually been a fun project. I have found all bar one tiny piece of metal fragment - which I am hoping has fallen through the oil return port into the sump. So on a separate subject - does anyone know if the oil return port on the exhaust side of the cylinder head returns straight to the sump? I fished about with a magnet in the sump area and brought out 1 piece so I am assuming it does. My only fear is that it could end up on the piston which is obviously bad. I looked with a bore scope but it was all so dark and gloomy I could not see much. Looking at Keswick90 Nigel's video here: &t=731s It doesn't look possible because the head gasket would not allow it to transfer to the top of a piston. Any thoughts on this? If it is in the sump - Is it safe in the sump? It is a bit about 2mm long x 3mm wide (if it is in one piece) BTW Keswick Nigel is a genius and he deserves some real credit for his videos. If I could buy the man a beer I would! Thanks everyone and I welcome your thoughts on the above. |
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27th Apr 2023 2:58pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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I just got home and the part has arrived. Unfortunately it does not have the seal fitted (boo!) so I wasted my time trying to be clever.
Looking closer at the part number W706722S300 - this shows up on Ebay but the vehicles listed as being suitable for do not include the 2.4 Tdci. hornet - are you sure this fits the 2.4 Tdci? https://www.ebay.com/itm/255817695469 So I can get on, I think I will use the PTFE tape as this seems the easiest fix. Any help on the above question is gratefully received. |
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27th Apr 2023 4:06pm |
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| Wethering Landy Member Since: 17 Jun 2022 Location: Suffolk Posts: 39
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Update 2
I just called a guy on Ebay who had the part listed and he said it will not fit the Defender Tdci engine. It fits TDci engines up to 2006 - not after. |
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27th Apr 2023 4:12pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1999
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That’s not good news, so the search goes on.
Ps- your issue with the engine, sounds similar to the one MatLandy had https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic86994.html |
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27th Apr 2023 4:35pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17372 
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As far as I know the oil drain passages do drop straight to the sump. It should not be possible for fragments of the lifter to get into the bore, since they are in the oily space of the engine and (of course) there is no connection between the oil spaces and the fuel/air spaces except via the breather system. The chances of metal fragments making that journey are virtually nil. That being said I would not be happy not knowing where the fragment is, and I would certainly drop the sum to try to find it. Worst case it could still do expensive damage in the sump, best case it sticks to the mag drain plug and is completely benign. The cost of a sump gasket and probably sump pan is not great compared to the cost of a destroyed engine. |
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27th Apr 2023 5:05pm |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 184
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As Iahn suggested, very similar to what happened to mine (see https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic86994.html).
Be aware, there is no magnet integrated in the sump as standard on a Puma engine, so you can only rely on an aftermarket magnetic drain plug if you have one, and the oil filter to catch unwanted bits to wander around. Mind you, the magnetic drain plug is not a bullet proof thingy as it does not catch alloy swarf anyway. And the engine is made for a good part of alloy ! In my case I followed advice from here and swapped the oil pan for a new one. And I'm glad I did. I also did 2 oil changes in a row once the engine was rebuilt (one after idling for a few mins, the other after driving for 20 mins), each time with a new oil filter, to make sure I got rid of all possible swarf in there. Also glad I did this. Good Luck to you. /Mat |
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27th Apr 2023 8:38pm |
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