 | Home > My Defender > Puma to LT1/8L90 Restomod |
 
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| marsie Member Since: 17 Nov 2011 Location: sheffieldish Posts: 532   
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Is the exhaust really mounted that close to the axle
 2000 90 TD5,galv chassis, d2 axles ,Bas remap , alisport intercooler , d2 transfer box , side windows-more to come-much more!! *GONE*
2004 110 TD5 Double cab. *GONE* 2010 110 2.4 XS station wagon |
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28th Feb 2023 7:25pm |
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| Shroppy Member Since: 25 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 866  
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Have you got any more photos of the exhaust? Like marsie, I wonder why the exhaust is mounted so close to an axle which can articulate?... 1985 127 V8 Build Thread
Series 2 109" Series 1 80" |
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28th Feb 2023 7:28pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230 
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To be balanced, the project does have air suspension so has various ride heights. I suspect that has been forgotten during fabrication. I'm not sure what the ride height is in that photo whether it’s at driving height or the lowest height.
I'll drop some more photos of the exhaust as soon as I can. |
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4th Mar 2023 12:11pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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I'd like to dedicate this update to the Dakota Cluster I've been playing about with this over the last few weeks and today have finished the testing.
I'd just like to say I have no affiliation with Dakota, because I'm soo impressed with the unit and how well it is suited to the Defender. My initial reason for looking at the Dakota dash was it's ability to display Transmissioin information (gear etc etc..) Here is what I bought HDX-2018 - https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pa...rd1074.htm BIM-01-2 (OBD Interface) - https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pa...prd752.htm GPS-50-2 (GPS speed sensor plus lots more)https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=837/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd837.htm SEN-15-1 (outside air temp)https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=120/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd120.htm 600041 - GPS antenna - DIM-1 - Dimming kit - https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/pa...prd404.htm The dash is easy to use, programme & wire. There is an app for programming which connects over Bluetooth. At first it looks like a nightmare wiring job, but the more I looked at the dash controller and the LR cluster it became clear that every signal needed was already at the current dash and even in the correct format, once at this stage the rest was quite easy. I wanted to keep all the wiring standard and unbutchered in case I ever wanted to put back the standard cluster. I removed a socket from an old cluster to make up an extension loom from the LR cluster plug. Here is the plug and wiring pin outs and colours for the existing plug. (Ignore pins 17 and 33 at the far end, they don’t exist)  Click image to enlarge Every input needed for the Dakota dash is already at this plug, so I made up an extension lead using the plug. In addition, I needed to splice the CAN wires for the OBD unit into the GM loom. Rather than use the existing Dakota plug I opted to directly solder the unit, if you do this be careful as there are no power wires and two different can wiring protocols in the lead. Use pin 14 (White - Can Low) and Pin 6 (Green - Can High). Both the main and OBD units are directly powered from the dash connector. The LR CAN wires in the cluster are not used. This is the finished connector. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I've yet to programme the speed signal from the GPS module, but the integration of the Fuel sensor and all other items is seamless, and I still have two programmable inputs left to use if I need them, there is even a 4X4 diff lock symbol as standard. The display is now working and displays all pressures and temps, gears, there is also integration of the ABS system into the dash. The LR rear fog and rear heated screen I decided not to display however it could easily put these onto the two spare inputs. I've still to mount the units but there sems sufficient space for the main controller behind and to the upper right of the dash and for both the GPS and OBD modules to the right hand side of the heater matrix. I've also finished the switch panel for HI/LO, diff lock and handbrake switch and all works fine. Have also integrated an interlock so the switches cant be operated unless the vehicle is in Park or Neutral. Here is the switch panel Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Just waiting for the paddle and button shifter from the states and that should see a much tidier interior without handbrake, diff or gear levers. |
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28th Mar 2023 5:52pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486
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Great work once again I just wish there was a alternative to the this particular Dakota dash apart from it now being over used by all the LS converters the giltzy plastic chrome surround and contra rotating dials just dont look right in a Land Rover. Again only my opinion and no doubting your passion and qaulity of build.
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29th Mar 2023 9:31am |
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| steveww Member Since: 05 Jan 2022 Location: Uppingham Posts: 568 
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In the past I've used Motec products.
https://www.motec.com.au/c1212/c1212overview/ |
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29th Mar 2023 4:04pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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Linds,
I totally agree and if there was a better option to display everything needed I'd be doing it. I'd hoped to get the middle display working but have not been able to achieve that. However I've managed to fit it into the standard cluster and the crome bezel is away being anodised black. By the time I get the back plate black and the chrome anodised black it may look better. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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29th Mar 2023 8:20pm |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486
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The blacking of all the chrome bits should be a great improvment
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31st Mar 2023 9:41am |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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Hope so, also with the help of mcma1 (Andy) who is 3d printing a bezel to get rid of the monstrosity all together.....
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2nd Apr 2023 1:34pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2893 |
 Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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2nd Apr 2023 7:16pm |
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| mrfirepro Member Since: 06 Nov 2020 Location: kent Posts: 230
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Exciting news...... my body shop called today saying that all the front end panels and doors are finished, so hopefully over the next few weeks the front end can start coming together.
Click image to enlarge Not sure if I've mentioned it before  but I've decided to do away with the handbrake, hi/lo diff lock lever and the floor shifter in leu of fully electronic units.
The last piece of the jigsaw arrived this week from PCS in the states. Click image to enlarge Just what I wanted more wiring, just when you think you’re finished... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Mounting the PCS controller here Click image to enlarge I got the new binnacle cover (thanks for help) Click image to enlarge and managed to mount the control buttons, not totally sure about this but hoping to live with it for a while and see how I feel in the long run. Click image to enlarge I bought a Pioneer unit SPH-DA360DAB Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge had various problems, finally got Pioneer to except it was a problem with the unit and asked me to send it back. They sent it back to me fully working saying it worked all along and they had done nothing to it, MY ARSE now got a different software version, good news is it's all working now. Also, Transcal have finished my interior so possibly looking like I'll finish it this year.... As usual ending with a question... As I'm just about to start the fitting up doors, body, wings etc etc and I want to get better gaps than JLR, is there a guide or any document around I could follow.... |
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4th May 2023 9:05pm |
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| kenzle8a Member Since: 12 Feb 2020 Location: None Posts: 1074 
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Mike from Britrest does a decent video on it.
Although I always remind myself that land rovers are like continents and suffer from drift over time... |
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5th May 2023 6:55am |
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| Linds Hanson Member Since: 16 Jan 2021 Location: Cornwall Posts: 486
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The main thing is to use brand new Genuine door catches and Genuine door seals, don't fit any front wings just the bulkhead and body loose. Align the doors to the bulkhead,align the top of the curved section through front to rear from bulkhead,doors and rear tub( a laser line is ideal for this ). Set the door gap and ensure these are equal top to bottom. Next fit the screen frame and hard top sides and again check equal door gap top to bottom along rear edge of door. The door gap can be changed by fitting extra washers on the bulkhead to chassis outigger bolts or moving the rear body forward or aft. Shims are available to alter the bulkhead angle more than the slotted fixing holes on the footwell suppourt brackets allow. |
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5th May 2023 9:52am |
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| JOW240725 Member Since: 04 May 2015 Location: Suffolk Posts: 7906 
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Linds, you know you can edit a quote to show just the bit you want and NOT repeat ALL the photos
 James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641 MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557 Instagram @suffolk_rovers |
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5th May 2023 5:06pm |
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