DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Rear Cross Member Conundrum

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear Cross Member Conundrum

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Greg23w

Member Since: 14 Jan 2023
Location: Uttoxeter
Posts: 5

Rear Cross Member Conundrum

So I have bought an ex farm truck 110 double cab. Like all farm trucks it has seen some action, to put it mildly... So much action in fact that i need to replace the rear tub. The rear cross member also needs replacing.
From what I can work out, they are linked to each other in the replacement process. So when a new tub is fitted it is aligned with the cross member and vice versa.
My question is which to do first?
Many thanks

14th Jan 2023 5:50pm

dailysleaze

Member Since: 23 May 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 237

I would do cross member first so that the original tub gives a datum for the new cross member

14th Jan 2023 8:07pm

Mossberg

Member Since: 29 Feb 2020
Location: Lancs
Posts: 553

1993 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Aintree Green

Agree with this - crossmember first!

14th Jan 2023 9:04pm

Dinnu

Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black

I did replace a crossmember once with the tub off. I made some simple jigs on the old cross member before cutting it off, so the new crossmember went in in exactly same position as the original.
Note that I replace the basic end of the crossmember without chassis leg extensions, so to cut the old one off really needed the tub off. With or without extensions really depend on the condition of the chassis legs though but makes a cosmetically nicer repair without the extensions, IMHO. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black

15th Jan 2023 12:30pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17374

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

By preference I would always remove the tub then jig the crossmember. It would be an approach of last resort to replace the crossmember with the tub in situ (appropriate perhaps on a 110 SW or DC where removing the tub is extremely non-trivial).

15th Jan 2023 12:53pm

Greg23w

Member Since: 14 Jan 2023
Location: Uttoxeter
Posts: 5

Many thanks for the replies chaps. I will go with the general consensus and do the crossmember first.
That is unless anyone has any links to information about creating jigs for it. I would prefer to have the tub off to weld the top of the chassis rail too...

16th Jan 2023 8:52am

Chris86

Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: South Yorks
Posts: 789

Crossmemember

Hello,

I'd probably leave the tub on, tack the crossmember up with the old tub in place then when you pull the tub off fully- complete the welds whilst you have better access, then fully reassemble.

Regards

Chris

16th Jan 2023 9:17am

diesel_jim

Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

Here's my last 90 I built.... just made a simple frame welded onto the chassis and bolted to the crossmember body tags (I bolted the box to the tags first, then welded the horizontal bits onto the chassis wherever was touching, just a couple of small welds needed)

Once all was changed just grind off the weld, dab of paint, no one's any the wiser.

Click image to enlarge

16th Jan 2023 5:01pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum