 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Volume Control Valve - Ford part no? |
 
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8059   
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PJ Jones do have them @ £48 + £8 delivery on their website: https://www.pfjones.co.uk/294009-0260-ford...-0260.html
Or PJ Jones ebay @ £30 inc delivery https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Denso-Diese...1300600010 same people looks like same item to me. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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27th Oct 2018 5:28pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4217  
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Does look like same item from same people. I’d go with the EBay one. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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27th Oct 2018 5:30pm |
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| keef9t Member Since: 13 Mar 2016 Location: manchester Posts: 171 
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As I said before, the ebay one from PF Jones arrived in a plain box and no markings on the valve itself. The ebay description gives the brand as "PF Jones". I would put my money on it not being a genuine Denso item.
You pays your money, you takes a chance. Having said that, they are a well established diesel company. You would not expect them to be selling stuff that don't work. |
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27th Oct 2018 8:20pm |
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| keef9t Member Since: 13 Mar 2016 Location: manchester Posts: 171
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The last two cold mornings have brought the lumpy idle back. So the previous solution of cleaning the MAF and MAP sensors was short lived.
This afternoon, I bit the bullet and fitted the new VCV I bought from PF Jones Ebay shop, previously. If you remember, I was concerned about it arriving in a plain box and having no reference to 'Denso". It seems to be working ok. But what a PITA to fit. I need to study JST's 10 minute procedure more closely. Admittedly I didn't have the tools he has, but got there in the end, 2 hours later. Which is the "oil return pipe" you mentioned and how does it disconnect ? Keith |
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22nd Nov 2018 5:58pm |
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 
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Does jst mean the vacuum pipe. Its just a push in pull out connection if you know what I mean. It gives you more room to get your hands there.
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22nd Nov 2018 7:09pm |
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| keef9t Member Since: 13 Mar 2016 Location: manchester Posts: 171
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He probably did mean the vacuum pipe.It is in the way and easy to disconnect, as you say.
I did do this. I was also looking to disconnect the pipe a bit lower down, which has a plastic clip connection but couldn't get at it very well. Also, I couldn't figure out how the clip came off and didn't want to break it. |
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22nd Nov 2018 9:10pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8059
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Correct vacuum pipe on back on vac pump. For some reason my brain was thinking oil drain, probably due to having just done td5 turbo work job prior! Sorry.
Since fitting no lumpy idle with mine and no learn. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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22nd Nov 2018 10:27pm |
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| Cottycam Member Since: 13 Sep 2014 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 1
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Brand new poster here - many thanks for all the tips about changing the VCV in a 2.4 Puma. Just changed mine and all working well. Thought I would add to the tips for changing the VCV as there's one or two observations that might come in handy for anyone about to have a go.
In roughly the right order, and in conjunction with all previous tips above: 1. Make sure you have enough light! Bright torch, work lamp, whatever it takes - can't stress this enough. 2. I spent ages faffing about with angled joints and ratchet extensions - but the truth is, you can easily do it without if necessary. Essential is a simple right-angled 5mm hexagonal Allen key - use this to crack the bolts for undoing and the final tighten at the end. I also used a simple 1/4 inch ratchet with a T30 socket but this was solely for undoing the loose bolts - not for cracking or final tighten. See below. 3. The wiring loom that runs above the work area is simple to unhitch from the support points - use pliers to squeeze from behind each plastic attachment and it will pop out of its hole. Push the loom aside but be careful not to stress any individual wires to any other connectors - you can always undo other connectors too. 4. Definitely remove the plastic pipe from the brake vacuum pump - this is the black plastic tubing with a silver surround that's right in your way. It's VERY simple to unplug: slide the silver external wrap back and find where the black pipe goes into a 'wobbly' bit of metal that sits in a larger brass bolt at the back of the pump. DON'T undo this big bolt - there is a valve ball and a spring inside and a thousand curses will descend on you for all eternity if you take it out. Instead, the wobbly bit the plastic pipe goes in is a simple pressure collet - so with the fingers of your left hand, push that wobbly collet into the pump further so it rests against the end of the big nut, and with the fingers of your right hand, gently and simply pull the plastic pipe out of the collet. Easy when you know how. To reinsert later, simply push the pipe back into the collet one-handed, all the way and you'll see the collet move out towards your fingers, and that's it. 5. Leave the electrical connector plugged into the VCV. 6. From above, locate the shortest side of the Allen key into each VCV securing bolt by feel. Once in, move your right hand around and attack from the right, your left hand then down in from the top. Keep your right hand as a safety net in case the Allen key comes out or might fall. Crack each securing bolt - and then each one can be removed by finger. Obviously DON'T DROP THEM! Go slowly and use your right hand from the top, doing it blind. They will easily unscrew all the way. 7. Gently pull the old VCV out from it's mount - you might hear a slight hissing noise - I thought it was the Mrs watching me. It's just a bit of pressure release from inside the VCV - don't panic. 8. Now unplug the electrical connector. There's a slim tab at the back of it near where the wires go in - push that and slide the connector off. It will come off, needs a bit of force. 9. Use some clean tissue paper and carefully wipe the area AROUND the VCV mounting point - not the actual VCV mating area. Wipe away anything likely to be accidentally scraped when you put the new one on. 10. The old gasket will need some careful prising to get it off, but off it will come - persevere! Be wary of using a sharp screwdriver to try and prise it off - one mistake and you could easily score the mating surface. I did it with a fingernail. Snowflakes need not read further. Man up! (Okay, you're allowed to use a plastic thing of some sort. Maybe.) 11. Put the new O ring and gasket ready onto the new VCV. I used a tiny bit of petroleum jelly on the gasket around the bolt holes to keep it in position, and the tiniest dab on the O ring. Offer up the new VCV and get it into the mounting hole. Gently push it in as far as it will go. You'll notice that it doesn't seem to go as far in by hand as you though it might. No worries. 12. Reinsert the VCV mounting bolts by hand and finger tighten, alternating one to the other. If you have a ratchet set small enough and the right lengths, use that to tighten up, will be a lot quicker. Finish off with the 5mm right-angled Allen key. How much is enough tightening? You felt how tight it was when you uncracked them - so don't go mad. But most people know when enough is enough from the size of the bolt. If you're worried, always re-tighten after the engine has had a heat cycle put through it. 13. Electrical connector back on and brake vacuum pump pipe back in, clear the engine bay and start her up. Check for leaks. Go for a test drive. Check for leaks. It should be smooth at idle and no glitches with acceleration. Small glitches are allowed until you either have the pump learning, or it learns itself. (Neatly sidestepped that little hot potato!) 14. Tidy up engine bay - don't forget the wiring loom securing mounts. Hope this helps someone - cheers! |
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2nd Dec 2018 4:52pm |
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| keith Member Since: 15 Aug 2012 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 2214 
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Well not a good outcome for me trying to make this VCV change. New one purchased for 2012 2.2 and all the tools I had out. Couldn’t get into it and ended up breaking the sensor off of the valve. Of course now the defender won’t start. Checked all fuses and it’s in disabled mode. So recovery to the dealership is now needed. So much for a simple job. 
 Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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15th Apr 2021 12:22pm |
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| YozzSWB Member Since: 19 Mar 2022 Location: Perthshire Posts: 1
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Hi All, just returned to the Defender fold after a 10 year excursion into Discoveries. The new purchase (2009 90) is generally behaving but has developed symptoms similar to the above ie losing power after driving for 15minutes or so, no warning lights and able to reset by flicking off and back on. Not being that familiar with the Puma yet, where does the VCV live, and does the pilot learn process happen automatically or do you need to do something? TaVM |
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22nd Mar 2022 8:33pm |
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| landhank Member Since: 27 Oct 2021 Location: RLP Posts: 37 
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Gday,
could somebody help me me out with partnumbers for a 2.2l engine VCV? Its a very early 2.2l from 2012. Would be great if somebody could support with Ford or VDO numbers as well. Thanks alot. Regards landhank |
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24th Mar 2022 6:54am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20453
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As Blackwolf said, you don’t need to change the pressure sensor every time at all.
Also pilot learn required is a myth on installation, I didn’t and many others never did. Simply replace part and job done and it will self learn given time with no issues. I got mine from PF Jones, came in a Nissan genuine parts box fitted perfectly, runs perfect and never had the slightest issue and runs great now. Best to take the part out, take electrical plug off once out and fitting is the reverse. Don’t over tighten the two fixings.. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 24th Mar 2022 6:30pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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24th Mar 2022 7:55am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450 
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It's on the back of the fuel pump (much more accessible on the 2.4 than the 2.2) and yes, the learn process will happen autonomously over time or can be forced with a suitable diagnostic tools. In the early days of the Puma it was said that the ECM could only store a limited number of relearns but I believe this to be an internet myth. Generally the engine will run pretty well straight off without a relearn (usually much better than it was before you changed the VCV, since you wouldn't have changed it if there wasn't a fault), and the forced relearn process is notoriously unreliable and will not complete if it is too hot, too cold, or there is an "R" in the month, etc. Nowadays I tend not to bother trying. |
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24th Mar 2022 5:39pm |
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