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345rover

Member Since: 03 Nov 2021
Location: Cayman Islands
Posts: 2

Our defender has issues idling and accelerating.

Hi, I have 2008 Defender 90 Manual w/ the 2.4 Puma engine. We picked it up a few months ago and have had a few constant issues with it. We owned a Range Rover Classic in the past that never gave us issues like this.

The first and most prominent issue is the acceleration. It will start and run perfectly fine for all of 10-15 minutes. The the problems begin, for example when shifting up to 3rd on a flat road (no hills here) it will shift gear and rev back up to about 1200rpm. Then it seems to die out, I can put my foot to the floor and the engine will not pick up for the life of it. Eventually I end up having to shift down and re-shift up to 3rd and about half the time it accelerates as it should. But increasingly more often it will not pick up and I find myself turning back around for home (in 2nd because 3rd & 4th seem to be where it happens) because I have no faith it will get me where I'm going.

The other issue is that sometimes when I start it up it runs for all of 10 seconds and then dies again. This seems to happen after it has been driven for a bit (cold starts every time just fine). I live in a very hot/humid country which means the engine gets hotter quicker, that being said there are tons of Defenders that are daily driven about that seem to run fine.

I have spoken to plenty of people about this and I have been given different thoughts. The first time it failed to idle, and subsequently run, it was at the petrol station (first time filling it up). The attendant though it was the fuel pump, and after leaving for 10 minutes in the shade I managed to get it going but when I slowed down to pull out onto the road it died again. I got it going and kept in above 500rpm and it got me home but once I got home it died as I went below 500 to park it. Some people have suggested the power loss while accelerating is due to the wiring. Ive heard the wiring is particularly bad on AC models (which mine is) but a basic examination of the engine bay shows the wiring is not corroded and the ports are in pretty good shape. I have a simple mechanical ability but I don't have the knowledge or space, where I currently live, to diagnose what is actually wrong. My friend thinks its the fuel lines being dirty or corroded because the fuel here isn't great quality. I took it the local Land Rover tech for service and he couldn't find anything out the ordinary and gave it a clean bill of health. (which isn't right clearly)

Any thoughts? Willing to listen to any advice you might have.

3rd Nov 2021 4:42pm

Marks Landy

Member Since: 09 Feb 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 299

Have a quick search for VCV valve (Volume Control Valve).
It’s a not uncommon on the 2.4, not sure about the 2.2.

3rd Nov 2021 5:47pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 1999

Lots on here if you do a search on vcv.
If you have no diagnostic trouble codes it points more to the vcv

If replacing one here is the process https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic80710.html?highlight=vcv

Also look here https://bellautoservices.co.uk/store/defen...our-valve/

As with first link you can get away without steps 7 and 8, starts lumpy but go for run and should settle down.

Very doable at hone, not technical, just a little cramped but first post advises on what tools to use.

Vcv can be obtained cheaper from pf Jones

3rd Nov 2021 7:27pm

AndyS

Member Since: 18 Aug 2012
Location: London
Posts: 595

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Sumatra Black

Very easy job, just unplug the VCV from the loom, unplug the vacuum hose (push the collar in while pulling the hose out) and the fuel line via the quick release to get more room and then it's just two 5mm Allen bolts. You'll probably have to reuse the Allen bolts because the two in the kit are too long. It'll really change the way it drives. Mine was a basket case before, I had to stop every few miles to switch it off to reset it.

Part: https://d2pautoparts.com/products/diesel-f...2940090260

3rd Nov 2021 7:50pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20348

Consider bridging or replacing the clutch switch as well.

If you decide to bridge you’ll need 2 pole J.P.T. connectors, on a Puma the circuit must stay closed if you chose to bridge it which you can do with connectors.

Alternatively, replace the clutch switch it’s self, the VCV is a likely candidate as suggested.

VCV tends to create stalling, espaially when revs drop off or when cold and poor performance and hesitation. A rough idle when cold, perhaps not noticeable though in your country.

The clutch switch failiure tends to exert a jerkiness on gear changes, revs pull away just as gear is engaged without drive input and things like that. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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3rd Nov 2021 8:33pm

345rover

Member Since: 03 Nov 2021
Location: Cayman Islands
Posts: 2

Done some work this wknd. Took apart the dash an ecu to get at the wiring harness. It was completely corroded and now am waiting on a replacement for that. In the meantime will check up on the VCV. Update again once the wiring harness is in.

8th Nov 2021 2:01pm

Greyman110

Member Since: 29 Sep 2017
Location: London
Posts: 327

+1 for the VCV.

Also try cleaning the the connections of CHT (Cylinder Head Temp Sensor) with electrical contact cleaner. I had an issue with mine when it was warm and after cleaning those it was back to normal.

8th Nov 2021 6:57pm

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