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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3404

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Great work.

My recommendation is to isolate stainless steel as much as possible from the bodywork, as the aluminum would act as a sacrificial anode around steel, and looses more ions (that is corrodes more) around stainless steel.

There are various methods to isolate. Personally I like to fabricate my own plastic barriers when fitting plates of different metal. A quick method is to stick on some tape, such as duct tape on the part. If the captive plate is also isolated, then do not need to do anything more, but if that is not possible, can also install screws, rivets etc with barrier coatings such as Duralac.

It only takes a bit more time to isolate, but make a good difference to the life of your body work. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #926544 20th Oct 2021 6:44pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Thank you very much Dinnu for the warning and tips. Yet another opportunity to use my Gorilla tape! I will redo that tomorrow.

As I am also fitting a Nakatanenga stainless bolt kit, I guess I will need to get some Duralac or Weicon pretty quickly. Is Duralac/Weicon different from the anti-seize pasta that Naka provides with the kit?

I've read here all the cons regarding those stainless bolts, but also all good feedback amongst the community who did not encounter (yet) issue with SS. My current bolts are horribles and I need to replace them. Not easy to decide on a go/nogo...
Post #926549 20th Oct 2021 7:02pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3404

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Do not get me wrong, I like to use stainless fittings as much as possible too, and I have replaced all non critical bolts and screws to SS in my ongoing restoration. Any bolt that is critical, such as steering, suspension, braking etc, make sure you retain steel grade 8.8, 10.9 or what grade the original bolt is. That is because common stainless, such as A2/70 has lower yield than grade 8.8.

Given that the surface area of a couple of screws is very small compared to the surface area of the aluminium bodywork, the galvanic potential would not be so high, so it will not be that bad. However I still isolate, with barriers under washers. Keep in mind that paint is a barrier too. Speaking of washers and paint, I am one who thinks that washers are directional Embarassed If you look closely to the edges of a washer, there is a sharp edge on one side and a rounded edge on the other side (result of the punching process). I always place the rounded edge side against the part I am fastening. That way less chance of the washer piercing the paint and making an electrical contact Very Happy

Re the anti seize paste supplied by Naka I cannot comment. I have never used it, and do not know its composition either. Mind you, I used Duralac on my restoration only capping rivets. I think those were the only thing that I could not isolate except by a good coat of paint - which probably the rivet can break through (I painted before assembly - unlike what JLR did). 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #926569 20th Oct 2021 8:01pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
@ Dinnu: I also pay attention to washer mounting side Smile

As highligthed by ericvv in some of his posts I've ordered Weicon 26000045 anti seize paste, found in in anthracite color.



Stainless bolts kit fitting on hold for now
Post #926678 21st Oct 2021 2:27pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Dinnu wrote:
Speaking of washers and paint, I am one who thinks that washers are directional Embarassed If you look closely to the edges of a washer, there is a sharp edge on one side and a rounded edge on the other side (result of the punching process). I always place the rounded edge side against the part I am fastening.

Absolutely not. To be honest, it tends to be a feature of relatively cheap washers but if using against a painted surface to prevent damage by the turning of the nut then it makes sense to fit them sharp edge up.

There's an argument that if using them in some sort of mission critical application then you lose some of the contact area if fitted in that way but if it's that mission critical then you probably need a better quality washer anyway. The only place I can think of on a Land Rover that it would be relevant are the washers under diesel injectors, but of course they do have specific washers. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #926738 22nd Oct 2021 5:40am
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3404

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Probably I do pay the price of premium washers, and get cheap washers.. not the first time to find washers that look like had a bad index and the punch took away a bite out of it Banging Head

The way I use washers is actually opposite to the way circlips are installed on universal joints, were the sharp edge is used at an advantage to 'bite' better in its groove.

I get what you say on the contact area. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #926748 22nd Oct 2021 8:21am
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Little trip today in the Vaud alps near Montreux in Switzerland, through a military shooting area on very scenic mountain road opened to public traffic only during the weekends.

A very narrow road


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And a small tunnel, with alternate traffic timeslots. One can go downhill only from 30' to 45', you better respect the timeframe because no way to deal with potential incoming traffic, and good luck to reverse within the non illuminated tunnel!


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Leading to a beautifull vista point on Lake Geneva


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... I wonder which one is the most maneuverable, have not tried the tank, but it can not be worst than the Def Very Happy


Click image to enlarge
Post #926994 24th Oct 2021 6:46pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Wheel arch eyebrows

Back from paintshop today, eyebrows and Wolf style rims in body color Keswick. I am happy with the result.



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Still have to wait some more few days to let the paint on the rims harden before mounting my new winter tires. Current ones are Nokian Rotiiva, still looking good but way too old (2012!) and thus totally ineffective.

After about 4 years a winter tyre must be replaced even if thread is ok as the compound is getting too hard and loose any ability to grip by cold weather, even worst on snow.

New winter tires will be Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT3 in standard size 235/85r16
Post #927228 26th Oct 2021 4:44pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10731

England 
Great pic's, many thanks Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #927444 27th Oct 2021 8:54pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3404

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Love the colour coded arches. They look great. Looking forward to see pics with the colour coded rims.

I am doing a restoration on 88MY 90. I have the same rims (went for Goodyear MTRs) and had a dilemma, colour code the rims or not. At this moment I am keeping them white as planning to keep the white roof. Then will see when it is all together again. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #927481 28th Oct 2021 4:26am
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JOW240725



Member Since: 04 May 2015
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 7903

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
Only just seen this thread. Welcome to Defender ownership and the best forum Thumbs Up You look like you've got a good one and she looks great! Nice mods so far too Thumbs Up

You mention maneuverability, have you properly adjusted the steering stops? Even without et0 rims, properly adjusted stops can make a big difference. It did with me when I had standard rims. James
MY2012 110 2.2TDCi XS SW Orkney Grey - http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43410.html
MY1990 110 200TDi SW beautifully faded Portofino Red - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post743641.html#743641
MY1984 90 V8 Slate Grey - https://www.defender2.net/forum/post744557.html#744557
Instagram @suffolk_rovers
Post #927490 28th Oct 2021 5:51am
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
L110CDL wrote:
Great pic's, many thanks Thumbs Up


Thank you Clayton!
Post #927535 28th Oct 2021 10:38am
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Thank you James for your hint about the steering locks Thumbs Up

I've checked that and it appears that there is room for optimization. I currently have a 20mm clearance with the radius arm on right side and about 40mm on left side Surprised

I will setup the clearance to 10mm (while 20mm is recommanded by the book) after I will have fitted the new winter wheels
Post #927541 28th Oct 2021 10:47am
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Wolf style rims 6.5x16 ET20.6 - Keswick green - Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT3 235/85r16

Wheel setup completed! Very very satisfied with the final look. In term of handling it is night and day with the fresh new tires comparing to the previous ones dated 2012.

Winter is coming... Good to go Thumbs Up

Before


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After



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Post #927684 29th Oct 2021 11:20am
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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 895

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Santorini Black
The colour matched rims are perfect! A very classic look Thumbs Up Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #927685 29th Oct 2021 11:24am
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