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mattia.CH



Member Since: 29 Dec 2020
Location: Lausanne
Posts: 53

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Keswick Green
the only thing i can notice in that picture is how clean your interior is. wow!!
Post #943336 21st Feb 2022 7:11pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
@mattia.CH

Most of the pics have been taken there

Road from Conthey to Derborance lake - Canton of Valais

https://goo.gl/maps/j9NS3DrhqTbJdSZy6

Road from La Lécherette to Corbeyrier - Canton of Vaud

https://goo.gl/maps/Gz4M7qy8tYm9hpD78

More details here http://www.corbeyrier.ch/vie-pratique/route-hongrin

Those roads are closed in winter, usually from end of October / mid November till early May/June.

Greetings lolo
Post #943341 21st Feb 2022 7:25pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Windscreen brackets seals change

Eventually received the windscreen bracket seals and tackle the change last weekend.

Unbolting the 3 bolts on each side was an easy job. Cleaning the holes and the bolts, removing rust traces was another story. Not surprizing that those brackets were contributing to water ingress into the footwells. Left side was a real disaster, specially the upper bolt, full of sand/mud/rust mixture Shocked




Original seals were in poor conditions


Click image to enlarge


This specific brush originally provided by the Swiss army to service the 5.56 cal rifles was just perfect to clean the holes in the windscreen Thumbs Up


Click image to enlarge


Now all seals are new, brackets chimps repainted and bolted back.

It cured water ingress on the right side, but only limited the ingress on the left side. Some more investigation required... Rolling Eyes
Post #943377 21st Feb 2022 9:10pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Removable camper conversion

I really enjoy discovering countries by car/motorbike, I love driving/riding. It's not the destination but more the journey. As now a Defender is in my garage, it's time to start a camper conversion 🙂

Elicited requirements are:

- Host 2 persons
- Ability to sit, rest, sleep, cook , eat, wash/clean inside with no need to open any door (shower outside ok)
- Autonomy for 48h (water, electricity for fridge, lights, phones chargers, and possibly a coffee machine)
- No roof rack
- No drill, no holes, no mods
- Easily and quickly removable setup to go back to stock
- As nice and confortable as possible

It's quite a challenge for me as DIY projects so far were pretty much limited to bolting parts. It will be the opportunity to learn and experiment of lot of brand new subjects such as carpentry and electricity. Some trade off will have to be made as my skills are limited (but I will improve overtime!). The steps are:

1) Get inspired by other projects, market/solution survey : Done. My prefered sources were, no particular order

- Off Track Family on Youtube
- ScrewFred, Defender Camper Ausbau on Youtube
- Simon, a block in the wood on Youtube
- Boris the Defender on Youtube
- Eric enjoys Earth on Youtube
- Le chat qui vole on Youtube
- Endlos-freisein.com on the Net

2) Head scratching, design, iteratively for a fair amount of iterations : Still in progress, but perfection do not exist thus at a certain point in time, let's do it and than improve as required
3) Build: In progress
4) Use: Planned for this summer! Objective : North Cape & Norway

Here are my planned build phases:

1) Window blinds: I can sleep in the car on a camping mat or cot
2) Removable furnitures: I can store my stuff, sleep and sit on a structure
3) Water/kitchen stuff: I can cook inside and wash tableware
4) Electricity: I can run a fridge, lights and charge device while parked

I will share major progress with you.


Last edited by lolo on 10th Apr 2022 8:55pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #948418 6th Apr 2022 11:39pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Window blinds

Lot of different available solutions, home made or commercial, for window blinds.

I have opted for a DIY based on aluminium coated air bubble material such as Reflectix. Unable to source this particular material brand, but I have found some single side alu coated foil insulation material looking like this



Templating the window contour is pretty easy on the Defender, but rear door window is a bit more challenging. I used cardboard and made sure to add extra 5mm to be able to wedge the blind into the window contour for the alpine windows and rear quarter windows. For rear passenger windows and rear door window I adjusted to the frame contour to use magnets to hold the blind in place.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


Once adjusted I cut out each piece twice in mirror in the material using the cardboard as template and used double sided carpet adhesive to get a double layer of air bubble insulation with alu foil on each external side. The result is a pretty rigid window blind that is light and that perfectly wedge into contours.


Click image to enlarge


I added a self adhesive black vinyl to the side facing ouside for "stealth" effect. From 3 meters away it looks like strongly tinted glass.


Click image to enlarge


Internally I kept the alu effect to reflect inside light and warmth


Click image to enlarge
Post #948419 7th Apr 2022 12:11am
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Furniture - Front Center Bottom

Regarding wood selection I had to choose between poplar and birch plywood. Both are available at my local store but not exactly in all targeted thickness. Poplar is lighter but less rigid, thus requires thicker pieces. Birch is about 1.5x more heavy but is available in all targeted thickness and easier to work with. From price point of view pretty equivalent. I will use birch plywood in my project.

Overall targeted internal furniture weight is about 120kg. Pretty much equivalent to the removed 2nd and 3rd row seats.

First piece to start easy: front bottom floor. Birch 15mm.


Click image to enlarge




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It keeps a clearance of 110mm, perfect to fit a Chantal extra flat 40L water tank 990x400x100mm

Post #948551 7th Apr 2022 8:39pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10731

England 
Thank you for posting your build, very interesting, reading about which way your going with this and all the homework ( research ) Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #948705 8th Apr 2022 8:27pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Thank you for your feedback Clayton and glad to read that it has an interest. I try to share my thoughts, experiments and results so others might maybe pick something out of it
Post #948721 8th Apr 2022 9:37pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10731

England 
I find that it is always good to read build threads as you can expand on an idea Very Happy 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #948723 8th Apr 2022 9:53pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Systemic design

I am trying to keep my camper project budget as low as possible. One important point to spare time&money is at least to avoid rework/refactoring. Thinking/design time is pretty cheap vs acquisition of wrong hardware, device or error in cutting/drilling things.

One of the critical success factor is to adopt an holistic approach and consider a systemic design. Of course it is challenging to bet on a bug free final result, but doing so will minimize big and dummy errors or inconsistancies.

So identify from inception precisely all pieces of equipment and their dimensions that will need to fit in your camper. I really mean ALL: mastress, boxes, water tanks, battery, inverter, dc charger, mppt charger, plugs and appliances, fridge, sink, water pump, shower kit, food packs, bottles of any beverage, pans, mugs, table accessories, gas burner, spare gas can, trashcan, toilett, supplies for those equipments, recovery kit, compressor, personal luggages, first aid kit, pocket lights, battery booster, knives, tools, exterior chairs and table... etc... REALLY ALL as best and comprehensive as you can.

Progressively start your internal layout plans, 3d or 2d with top, side, cut views and iterate going back and forth integrating all your stuff till you have maximized your design while respecting your constraints.

This take a fair amount of time, adapting internal layout to sourceable hardware/device/equipement and vice-versa. Sometimes you will have to change the design, sometimes you will choose other equipement. And often start again as you discover later other solution/equipement that fundamentally change important design decision. And often you will have to go forward and assume your trade offs.

Also mitigate your risks: very very early make sure your significant one understands and accepts that luggages will be limited to 40 L per person Wink
Post #948727 8th Apr 2022 10:23pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 815

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Love the luggage restrictions, did you clarify that’s per trip not per night, as mine would take it per night. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #948740 9th Apr 2022 7:06am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Looks good. My only comment would be that 15mm ply is quite heavy and that thickness may not be necessary for all components. Also, look to make use of cutting or drilling holes in panels to further reduce weight where it won't affect performance or aesthetics.

Weight saving on this scale may not make a significant difference to the vehicle but will help if you plan to take this stuff out and refit on a regular basis. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #948850 10th Apr 2022 7:21am
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5804

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
blackwolf wrote:
Possibly it is worth bearing in mind that the traditional front towing and lashing rings supplied by Land-Rover from the very earliest days through to the early 110 and 90 vehicles (the "D"-shaped jobbies) which are fitted in a similar way are secured by either 3/8" BSF grade S, 3/8" UNF grade S, or 10mm Grade 8.8 bolts according to age.

Four M10 8.8 bolts will be substantially stronger than the fitting above with two SS (presumably A4?) M8s at the front, even if the rear pair are the original M10 8.8 steel, and even more so if the rear pair have also been replaced with stainless.

The other reason why I wouldn't use those is that due to small diameter hole a shackle will be fairly small and will most likely bind unless the pull is directly ahead. This means that using a bridle with a single pull in the centre of the bridle will bind up the shackles and tend to twist the attachment points, which can generate significant unexpected loads. The only safe way to pull hard on those would be to use a recovery whiffle tree and that is very unlikely to happen.

In most respects the old genuine D-shaped rings are the best, since you can use virtually any type of attachment (including a knot, soft shackle, or winch hook) and can pull safely at virtually any angle. They are startlingly strong as well (in fact I have never heard of one failing, provided the chassis is sound). The downside is that although I believe the later "long plate" version (designed for the early 90 and 100 vehicles) will fit any later non-a/c vehicle, I don't think there is a way to fit them to an a/c-fitted vehicle without modifying the grille or fabricating a mount.

Although the GMB-Mount points look smart and would certainly be OK for an emergency road tow on a rope, I'm sorry to say that if you asked me to recover you from a stuck situation and I saw those, I would decline - unless I could put two slings or J-hooks round the front axle where the radius arms attach.

Strictly a breakdown recovery point rather than a "stuck vehicle" recovery point, in my book.


Hell’s teeth Blackwolf, do you just know that stuff off the top of your head? Or do you tuck in to an Aide Mémoire? If I ever find myself needing to answer a quiz question on recovery, or towing techniques and technologies, I’ll be sure to use you as my ‘phone a friend’…. Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #948880 10th Apr 2022 12:41pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
LandRoverAnorak wrote:
Looks good. My only comment would be that 15mm ply is quite heavy and that thickness may not be necessary for all components. Also, look to make use of cutting or drilling holes in panels to further reduce weight where it won't affect performance or aesthetics.


Thank you Darren for your comment. You are right. I have considered the following thickness per pannel as default:

Bottom : 9mm (no effort on)
Vertical: 12mm (no horizontal effort)
Top: 15mm (where loads are foreseen, such as sitting/sleeping)

Drilling 35mm holes is foreseen in the moving panel use as backrest and as closing panel for the sleeping platform

LandRoverAnorak wrote:
Weight saving on this scale may not make a significant difference to the vehicle but will help if you plan to take this stuff out and refit on a regular basis.


The whole setup will be based on 7 components, each less that 20kg (empty)

1) Front bottom, to level passenger footrest gap
2) Front right, case to store 20L portable water tank, a 20L box and compressor
3) Front middle, case to fit a 30L drawer fridge
4) Front left, electrical case to host the leisure battery, converter, chargers etc..
5) Rear left, case with kitchenware, sink, 5L clean water, 5L used water, trashcan
6) Rear right, used as main sit/couch platform + case to store a 40L box, portable toilet
7) Floor
Post #948887 10th Apr 2022 1:46pm
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lolo



Member Since: 18 Jul 2021
Location: Vaud
Posts: 123

Switzerland 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Keswick Green
Furniture - Front/Rear right and middle Front

The Defender is very boxy... from 50 feets away. In reality and in details, there is always some millimeters, plus or minus, that will ruins your plan. So mesure twice, mockup with cardboard, than cut once.


Click image to enlarge


This box is open on the right side so content is easily accessible when opening the door. Top lid also flips up so content is accessible from inside.

The front box is held in place using the 3 seat bolts on the floor. Same principle for the rear box, using the 4 seat bolts on the vertical side panel.

The easiest way to precisely drill the holes in the wood panel is to put and maintain the panel in place, put some grease on the tip of a bolt than bolt it from ouside in so it marks the wood exactly where to drill.


Click image to enlarge


This rear right furniture serves as bench and 1 person bed. It also stores one 40L box 600x400x245mm as well as portable toilet Porta Potti 335. The overall lenght is about 180cm, bed width is about 70cm.


Click image to enlarge


Yes, the Porta Potti is higher than the bench by about 3cm. That's a trade off to preserve head room when seated on the bench. I am 182cm tall so any gain in height is precious. Mastress will have a special recess to accomodate this level difference.


Click image to enlarge


The middle front furniture is very simple, it just frames an Indel B 30 L drawer fridge TB30AM




Completed furnitures are coated with a white initial base layer. I have not yet choosen the final color, but I am very tempted by keswick green for the outside and white for the inside... or let it as it is as painting is really not my cup of tea. I admire those who are good at it Smile
Post #949808 18th Apr 2022 9:13pm
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