![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > A day in the life of Miffy the 110... |
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Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3689 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Nice work!
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
So, Miffy is back up and running
![]() What was interesting was where silicone sealer had made its way to... That stuff is just plain evil. Useful but evil... This is the build-up around the hydraulic lash adjuster. Just how much is gumming up the adjusters?! who knows... Replace those then... ![]() Click image to enlarge The heat damage to the glow plug wiring was unexpected, but with a good quality of amalgamating tape the connections are working well. Will keep an eye on them. ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge The injectors looked superb after 220k miles, nothing external, no build up or bits missing. Bagged. Tagged. Clean. Ready. ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge The block looked in good condition. A little surface rust in the coolant ports, nothing major. Once clean there was almost no wear waft or warp across the top of the block. a few minor scores in the third cylinder bore, but nothing major. I know that I will have to do a bottom end rebuild in the future, but not for a while and hopefully once I have a roof for Miffy to sit under whilst I take the engine apart... So the AMC head... Superb quality and the upgrades to the injector port walls are immense. I built up the head with inlet and exhaust manifolds and then lifted it in to place. Goodness that was an awkward lift... A crane next time I think ![]() Then through the head bolt tightening sequence which is harder than it reads, but thanks to the additional turning assistance of the Tirfor handle over the top of a breaker bar all the bolts were torqued down to specs. The entire time muttering, please don't shear, please don't shear... ![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge Fit the rest of the ancillaries, fill the coolant, oil, filters, etc etc... Purge the fuel system... First turn of the key ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge The new head has now done around 700 miles or so, mixture of driving and she pulls like a freight train. Smoke is normal, if anything better than before and oddly the exhaust does not smell as much as it used to at idle. Maybe those cracks where something... The MPG is bob on 26-28 over a couple of tanks. No leaks (touch wood). So far so good... |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
It never stops, Ha...!
So now that the power is back it is time to deal with the 10 year old bushes, they are not all bad but the trailing arm lower bushes are worn enough to produce noticeable four wheel steering. Time for a refresh. No problem as the current bushes are SuperPros and no presses or burning out will be needed, straight swap. At the same time the track rod ends will be changed (the track rod has to come off anyway) as they have become dry and worn. Why oh why don't these come with grease nipples on top as standard... why...! So I have bought some new Delphi track rod ends and added grease nipples and dust caps to them, smooth greased steering here we come... ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
Raised air intake tops have been on my mind recently, not for bad reasons or that I am thinking of changing the top on my RAI. It is because I have had the current top fitted to Miffy for the better part of two years and I am thoroughly impressed by it, it is not the most expensive (+/- £17), it isn't even branded, it just works.
So, I have always had Safari snorkels and their scoop top, later I fitted a PandP cages RAI with a scoop top. I liked the ability rotate the scoop facing forwards to force in as much air as the engine wants and rotating it out of the way whilst driving in dusty or wet, the latter of which happens a lot here in Wales. I know the scoop top is meant to filter out the rain in the air (out the back via a drain hole), but it never did a great job, perhaps the rain in Wales is an incomparable kind or more than likely it is just the quantity. The other irritation was the squadrons of insects are just funnelled or sucked in to the scoop and in to the air filter. I used to fit the bottom of a pair of tights in to the top of the RAI just underneath the scoop top, this did a fab job of pre-filtering the larger bugs and leaves out before they reach the filter. I believe there is a foam pre-filter these days that you can buy that does the same thing. ![]() ![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge When I moved to the TD5 and especially once it had been tuned the air filter used to fill up so quickly with a scoop fitted, regardless of which direction it is facing. The filter would also get quite wet as well. Neither of which is ideal. ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge I took the plunge on a different style of RAI top, akin to the traditional Mantec mushroom top fitted to Camel Trophy and military vehicles, although made of plastic. I was tempted with a Donaldson style top (with the clear bowl), but at the time costly. The top I choose came from LR Challenge 4x4 I believe and the reason I went for it was the cyclonic intake, the rain cowl and the 3" diameter intake. Once fitted it looks good, it fits with the Safety Devices roll cage and PandP RAI. After two years it has faded a little in the sun, but not too much and a can of Plastikote would sort that out. It has taken some good knocks from branches and once made the seat of a local moggy... it seemed to approve of the tops diameter and vantage over the yard... https://www.lrchallenge4x4.co.uk/product/3...-defender/ ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge This last twelve months Miffy has been my daily driver and has covered thousands of miles in all weathers (mostly wet, it is Wales after all), through clouds of insects and during this dry summer a lot of dust. So much dust. I check my air filter fairly regularly and since fitting this RAI top the air box has been bone dry, dustless and has injested barely any large particles (leaves or insects). The air filter is miraculously clean. Usually I expect to see bits of flies, seeds and dirt stuck to the filter material. Nothing... or nothing that I can see without a magnifying glass. The only difference is the RAI top, nothing else has been changed. There is one more thing worth mentioning, performance... There is no noticeable difference in performance or MPG between the scoop and cyclonic RAI top. These days I care more about the reliability of the vehicle than the outright ram air powered speediness, or more than likely the lack of extra speediness. Just goes to show that not every modification has to cost an arm and a leg ![]() |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
Ok found an hour or so this afternoon to begin the re-bushing of the ol gal. Started easy with one of the rear trailing arms
![]() After 12 years the Superpro bushes are in pretty good condition, sort of... The bushes are ok but the metal sleeves and mounts are showing their age and mileage. So off with the old and on with the new: ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge The job is done without any jacking up or removal of wheels as I am replacing like for like. Usually the problems arise when swapping components that adjust the geometry of the axles in relation to the chassis. This time around it is just bush out bush in and torque it up ![]() Might get some time tomorrow to continue the job. What I have noticed is that the chassis wax needs topping up this year... Ain't life grand ![]() |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
SuperPro bushes swapped out and replaced by SuperPro bushes. The first set have done exceptionally well lasting 10-12 years and have covered more miles than I care to think about.
All in all the swap took a good day on my own, on a gravel track, no wheels came off the ground and only a basic tool kit was required. Interesting things to note. Since last doing this SuperPro have changed the grease they pack with the bushes, it is now much stickier and clear. An improvement when fitting the bushes, but be careful not to drop the lubricated bush on to the dusty gravel floor... ![]() The last time I properly copper slipped all the bolts and threads up and after 10 years all the bolts and nuts undid and slid out of the metal sleeves with ease. Super chuffed at that as we all know how hard a job can get when they do not come out. ![]() I did have to use a drill to remove four of the bushes where the inner metal sleeve had corroded tight in the bush. It was not difficult, just interesting that the sleeve had corroded against the bush and not the bolt. Better this way. Much easier to get out. The surprise was that both radius arm to axle bushes went in as one-piece items and came out as two pieces. I had not expected this at all, but it might explain the unusual steering characteristics that began a month or so ago, interestingly during the heatwave... ![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge All of the bushes showed some wear on the shoulders where they rub against the axle or chassis mounts, but not anything drastic. All of the suspension components that the bushes fitted in to or on to did not show much in the way of deterioration, a little rust here and there, but not outside the realms of a 19 year old vehicle. The hardest bushes to fit are the four radius arm to axle bushes as they are one piece with a lip that needs to be pushed through the radius arm. With no handy hydraulic press Plan A was to use the standard bottle jack under the jackal sills, a hub nut socket and a couple of bricks. Plan B was to break out the hi-lift jack. Either would do but I went with Plan A. This is a great way to remove the inner sleeve, old bush and re-fit with the new items. Worked a charm. Could have done with a third arm now and again, but found that I am still agile enough to utilise feet as well as hands when the need arises. ![]() ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge ![]() Click image to enlarge Was it worth the effort, silly question really. Yes it absolutely was and Miffy now rides like she's gliding along on silken pillows. The sometimes harsh jolts from country roads and potholes has been nearly irradicated and interestingly some of those knocks or clonks on taking up drive have gone as well. ![]() ![]() Whilst there and having to take the drag link off to get the radius arms off I took the time to replace the track rod ends with new Delphi units which I have added grease nipples too. In addition to the track rod end on the steering arm the steering is now light as a feather, what a delightful difference. Best of all... The 60-65 mph speed wobble (which I did think was a lost wheel weight) has gone... so the combination of worn bushes and track rod ends also feels like unbalanced wheels and tyres... Lesson learnt ![]() |
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Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I love the hydraulic press
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donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1852 ![]() ![]() |
^^^ Agreed! That's ingenuity and I'll take a "note to self" if I ever need to do stuff like that in the field.
I managed to push mine in using a medium-ish bench vice. Totally agree though that they make a huge difference to the ride. It's not that long since I did all mine, but if I get 10-12 years out of them I'll be delighted. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
Ha ![]() ![]() |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
A vice? You lucky thing you Donmacn, I would love a vice ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
I shall make sure the bunting and honour guard are out in readiness for you excossack ![]() ![]() |
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excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5883 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Cheers.
If you see a blue 110 towing a blue Harvey Frost thats me ![]() Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10857 ![]() ![]() |
Great work that your doing on Miffy and really good news with the head coming off and then putting the new one on and Miffy going well
![]() Did you go for the standard head or the performance head for Miffy ? Clayton. 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up. Keeper. |
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geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410 ![]() ![]() |
HA I didn't even know there was a performance TD5 head ![]() The next step is to tackle some of the bodywork, specifically the doors which having suffered massively living next to the coast for six years or so. That salt spray is a killer for Land Rovers by the coast... |
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