 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Another Puma clutch failure |
 
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434   
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Here's a video of the Brrrrrrrr
Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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16th Aug 2021 12:23pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450  
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The transit 4x4 clutch has a strong following in certain quarters (especially amongst the Italian Def2 forum membership) and seems to be a very good and readily available alternative the other options. I have never heard of any problems with it and in fact have one myself waiting to go in.
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16th Aug 2021 12:28pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2033
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The transit 4x4 clutch has good reviews on here, plus lof clutches, especially the extreme version or the Hd clutch from clutchfix.
Perhaps pm dgardel on here as he advocates the transit 4x4 clutch and will be able to advise on which vendor is best. Blackwolf beat me to it .... again  |
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16th Aug 2021 12:33pm |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434
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Thanks guys, confirming what I thought.
The other option is SACHS 3000.951.539-S https://www.sachsperformance.com/en/clutch...3000951539 Reinforced clutch kit Land Rover Defender - custom-modified. Approx. 30% higher transmittable torque than the original clutch kit. Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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16th Aug 2021 1:15pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3425  
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Although I do not doubt that the transit 4x4 clutch could be a better clutch than the alternative, what is actually the difference?
If the springs are stronger, could the transit 4x4 clutch transmit more cyclic load to the rest of the transmission, possibly wearing more adaptor shafts, more diff pins and more drive flanges? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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16th Aug 2021 2:01pm |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434
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Well, yes, your logic is sound. But following that to conclusion would entail keeping the standard clutch to spare the drivetrain, and instead, de-rating the engine. Entirely possible I suppose, but not what I am after.
Im comfortable with things as large as diffs becoming consumables, but I am not ok with random failures. Im quite ok with scheduling ashcroft diffs in the calendar, and flanges every 35k (the are dirt cheap afterall), but most of all, I really, really like the bas 170 tune and I want a clutch to support it. There are some extremely strong clutches available, but even in their mildest form I read reports of them so tight they chatter the gearbox in neutral. Im not wanting to go that far, and hoping, based on the feedback I read, that a SACHS reinforced clutch will be a happy medium. Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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16th Aug 2021 4:24pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2033
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Have a read of this
https://www.defender2.net/forum/post773840.html Dgardel post in particular and link to a site in Italian, which is helped with google translate if like me you canβt read Italian. Plus he confirms the part number |
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16th Aug 2021 4:46pm |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434
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Yes, I think this is the route Iβll take. Iβve got 2000km more to go to Lofoten, and then another 4000km back home by October, so Iβll have a good few miles on it before putting the truck away for winter. Stay tunedβ¦ Roaming around π³π΄π¨π
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16th Aug 2021 6:18pm |
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| RobKeay Member Since: 19 Jul 2009 Location: Stafford Posts: 1585 
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Hopefully you wont require a flywheel. The tdci is a solid flywheel unlike the dual mass of the transit.
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16th Aug 2021 6:57pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17450
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Transit 4x4 is a solid flywheel too, of course (otherwise the clutch would not be an option).
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16th Aug 2021 7:16pm |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434
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Heard back from the shop with a quote, as agreed.
Labor: 11,000 NOK plus 25% VAT Total cost: 26'000 NOK without a flywheel, 34,000 NOK with flywheel He was not able to tell me which parts he would use (contrary to what was previously discussed). Now I am considering doing it myself. I figure I can get it done in about 12 hours of labor? Sounds reasonable working on the ground? 2.2 watchouts - the DPF is in the way. Should be able to loosen the down pipe at the turbo and move it to the side? Any thoughts and or tips from those who have done it themselves (here's looking at you, Blackwolf!) thanks in advance guys, Dave Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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17th Aug 2021 3:30pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
That's a very expensive clutch
 4-6 hours work if done by a competent well equipped workshop! |
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17th Aug 2021 4:49pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3425
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That is indeed a steep price.
Luckily on my 2.2, previous owner replaced the clutch, so so far I have not needed to remove the gearbox. But I guess yes, you would have to move the dpf a bit.... but probably more because of the exhaust pipe that crosses from right to left side of the vehicle. Another watch out are also the dpf temperature sensors. There are 3 of them, the wires of which run along the right side of the gearbox, and their plugs are secured on a bracket fitted to the top right bolt that secures the tbox to the adaptor housing. The wires of these temperature sensors are very flimsy / delicate. I did once replace a tbox on top of a wet / freezing mountain. Very limited tools, as it was 500km and 2 ferries away from home. Took about 5 hours to remove and fit the replacement (and needed to stop for 1 hr as it hailed so badly). So your 12hrs estimate sounds good to me.  Click image to enlarge 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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18th Aug 2021 6:14am |
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| Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434
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Yesterday morning I ordered the LOF RoadSpec bundle as it was just going to take too long to source other parts. The parts I previously mentioned would ship "with in 5 business days" which sounds like a two week wait to me. Luke has always been very helpful with the Master and output shaft, so I'll be installing his clutch as well.
I spent a good half a day getting tools together and trying to find a suitable transmission jack but ended up going the engine hoist route. The t-box is now out and the dpf loosened and moved aside. Wiring harnesses and clutch hydraulics are clear. Now Im in the process of locating the bellhousing bolts. There should be 10, I have found 6 so far...and it appears some are from the engine side? Any tips on the best way to get the bellhousing bolts out? Also, it looks like there is enough room that I can support the trans with the engine hoist and just slide the transmission backwards to gain access to the clutch, leaving the crossmember in place (if there is no need to lower it to the ground). Thoughts? Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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19th Aug 2021 2:25pm |
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