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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3536 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
By default, in a Puma there are 2 studs on the adaptor housing. The rest are bolts.
I know some fit temporary longer studs, help prevent input seal damage during fitting. I di not know if that is what Blackwolf is referring to. For my Puma transfer case I decided to install 2 more studs, permanently fixed on the transfer case itself with high strength thread lock. I did this for a these reasons: 1. Eliminate risk of striping threads in the transfer case. 2. I can remove the transfer case without the need to drain the oil. 3. No risk of installing longer bolt in the wrong place where it would foul with the intermediate gear set. 4. Perhaps less chance of oil leak due to the stronger thread lock. This is actually not my idea, but was Landrovers way of doing it on early vehicles. So in Blackwolfsβ words I reversed the value engineering done in that area. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Regarding the longer bolt fouling a gear - I found that all my bolts were the same length? It was clear from the excessive thread lock on two of the bolts, which had gone into the open holes.
The case was out just a month ago to do the output shaft - I wonder if he replaced bolts making them all the same length. Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17722 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The alignment studs to which I referred ensure that the boxes are correctly aligned before the gearbox shaft enters the t-box oil seal, thereby ensuring the seal doesn't get damaged during the installation process.
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Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5889 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You did all that AND wrote the post in real time? Iβm impressed, thatβs some serious skill. ![]() ![]() ![]() I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3536 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The bolt that goes above the intermediate shaft is the shorter bolt. I would be weary if someone changed the other bolts to shorter length as well as there could be too little thread engagement. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I lined the 4 bolts up side by side and they were the same length. The two that go into the open cavity looked like this
EDIT: the two that had been sealed with threadlock went back in the holes they came out of I suppose if I had a bolt rubbing the intermediate gear there would be an obvious problem. ![]() Click image to enlarge Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3536 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Copy from Ashcroft site: https://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/f...faq-s.html
I have just fitted a rebuilt LT230 transfer box and it is locked solid, i.e. I cannot turn it, why? Check that the bolts you used to bolt the transfer box to the main box are in the correct positions. It is possible to fit a "longer" bolt in a position which will jam the intermediate gear and prevent it rotating. There are three bolts down each side attaching the transfer box to the main box and it is the middle of the three on the right hand side that causes the problem. On earlier transfer boxes a "stud" was fitted in this position to reduce the possibility of error. Sometimes the stud is omitted on later boxes or rebuilds. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That must be information for older trucks than mine. He references three bolts down each side, which is not the case post 2012. There are 4 bolts, two studs already installed, and the 4 bolts are the same length. This is in the factory manual post-2012. Roaming around π³π΄π¨π
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3536 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You are correct, 4 bolts 2 nuts.
But it is even less bolts on older transfer cases. My MY12 was with one shorter bolt. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Itβs almost like they just used whatever parts were handy on the particular day a truck was built β¦
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piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 225 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Good thread DeeEss, lots of useful tips/info. About to undertake a clutch / shaft replacement myself in a couple of weeks time.
Do people tend to do the rear crank seal at the same time or only if its showing signs of leaking? |
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Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The rear crank seal came with Bundle I bought from lof, but I did not use it. In order to install it you need to remove the flywheel. As mine has only 91,000 km and was not leaking I decided to leave well enough alone. I did not replace the spigot bearing either, and instead re-greased it. Next time both will get replaced. Roaming around π³π΄π¨π
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Angus_Beef Member Since: 30 Apr 2015 Location: Oslo Posts: 434 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi guys, I have been chasing a loud knocking sound for a week and hoping someone might have some insight.
The sound and vibration is the worse in 6th gear, which is basically unusable at the moment. 5th gear also has the issue, but to a lesser extent. I can drive 50-60 mph in 5th without anything unusual. But if I put my foot in it (request a lot of torque) I get a good bit of noise in 5th. If I shift to 6th it becomes very loud, with unusual vibration. The new Lof Roadspec is installed and it seems to work great. The gearbox slid easily in flush to the engine with only the pressure to compress the slave cylinder spring required. It doesn't really make any noise at idle in neutral, just the occasional chatter that is a result of the stiffer springs in the driven plate . Engagement is smooth and silent. When reassembling, the transfer case easily slid into place flush with the gearbox - no needing to pull it into place with a bolt or anything, No leaks. Nothing visually to suggest an alignment issue. After the earlier exchange in this thread about LT230 bolt length, I did remove the one bolt that could potentially touch the TC input gear to check and found that it was the correct length as it has not touched the input gear. The output shaft is a LOF one piece that was installed in July and has been in there for about 3000km. I dropped the TC oil and it was fine and clean. The drain plug magnet was clear. I also dropped the gearbox oil just yesterday and it looked as expected. No swarf or steel bits visible or that would stick to the magnet I stirred the oil with. Of course, there is a magnet fixed inside the MT82 that cannot be gotten to without disassembly, and that would have caught any larger bits without me knowing they are there. One well known gear company looked at the video and said engine>clutch>gearbox, but not TC. LOF believes the clutch and output shaft/TC alignment are fine. I have emailed Ashcroft yesterday evening for Dave's input. It is really strange timing that this only started after the new clutch was installed. Roaming around π³π΄π¨π |
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Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3536 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sound like gear chatter, but you mention that on the motorway (loaded) makes the same noise.
In the video, when you rev up the engine, the noise is kind of gone? Or the noise from the engine kinds of take over? Just a clarification, during the video, the transfer box is in neutral, or you had one of more wheels off the ground? 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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