 | Home > In Car Electronics > The definitive Defender ICE thread |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300  
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As above ISO colours are your friend here. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
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12th Aug 2021 6:07pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1399 
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I don't know what/if the boat is a standard connector, so converting both to ISO might be the easiest option.
The Alpine unit leads to iso are readily available and cheap. (NOT THIS ONE, SEE EDIT) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181844938646?mk...s=ispr%3D1  Click image to enlarge Determining what the boat is and if leads are available will be the hard part. In the old days everyone butchered looms and leads to make connections, hardly anyone would recommend that approach today. Edit, The boat connector looks to be this one. https://www.jpmsupply.com/product-p/95357.htm Buying both the Alpine lead and the connector, using both to make a custom lead may be the way to go.
There are 2 versions of the Alpine plug, white with round pins, or black with square pins. Looks like you need the black one, NOT the white one pictured and linked above. Click image to enlarge |
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31st Jul 2022 10:32am |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 680
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Thanks so much for the feedback really appreciate that. Great find. Will get something ordered later.
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31st Jul 2022 5:27pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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In effect the HU rear socket takes a an Alpine specific connector, that then terminates to a DIN ISO connector which is common to all aftermarket manufacturer head unit makes.
The vehicle (or boat) connector) is specific to itself, sometimes like in the case of the 2007 to 2012 Defender you can plug straight into it as the vehicle is DIN ISO connectors. As all aftermarket head units terminate to a DIN ISO can typically get an adaptor specific to the vehicles connector that terminates to DIN ISO so then you can plug into that. So vehicle connector > to adaptor connector > din ISO connector >|<din> head unit connector. DSC Off has covered it above for you above, I’d suggest checking the permanent and ignition live are the right way around also. If you want to you can fit DIN ISO male connectors to the vehicle or boat, which removes the need for an adaptor loom but means you’d need to identify the connections, crimp new crimp connections following a DIN ISO wiring diagram readily available online. But can be tricky with little room, and you’d need at least a basic uninsulated crimp tool. (You can get the DIN ISO male connectors and terminals on eBay) So it’s common to simply use an adaptor instead which means more connectors but simply plug in but with a little more wiring bulk than needed. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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31st Jul 2022 9:49pm |
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| balmybaldwin Member Since: 17 Apr 2021 Location: Surrey Posts: 192 
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Does anyone know what the connector is called that goes from the ISO harness into the vehicle? As mine was a hard top I've only got the female pins for front speakers, and want to add some rears but I need to add extra female connectors into the connector (the head unit and ISO harness have the outputs) They are round, approx 3mm in diameter
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4th Aug 2022 6:11pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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You would need to look it up for the vehicle model and year, I think places like Mud U.K. do these looms and some others.
There are various things you can do with the connectors, such as with mine the head unit is powered by the standard vehicle power plug but the speaker plug is not used and disconnected as I use RCA outputs instead which is a more clean signal and separately upgrade speaker wiring between speaker and Amplifier. Original speaker wiring just gets tucked away. As some of you may have noticed from my other posts regarding windscreen wiper replacement. This meant I had to take the whole dash out, which was an ideal chance to do a wiring tidy up. Whilst doing that, I was wondering if I could improve my DAB signal, it was working previously but I knew it could be bettered. I had noticed the signal had declined a little after some other items were fitted such as USB power supplies and items like that. So a few items that were not of concern with heat generation I wrapped in Mylar foil and loom tape, do not do this with anything that generates heat like a small amplifier or needs ventilation with a fan etc. I also fitted ferrite clips all over the place on power supplies inputs about 2” back from each device some times on both ends of the cable. Only required on power supplies, so ground and live often both fit in the same ferrite clips. Surprisingly I needed two bags of multi size ferrite clips so around £20 in total. To add to this I bought some 50mm wide adhesive aluminium tape and some 20mm double sided tape and made a hybrid Mylar / foil sleeve using the Mylar foil, the aluminium foil (because it’s a bit thicker) and the double sided tape to adhere the sleeve around the cable. Finished off by a wrap of cloth loom tape, which means the cable won’t be all taped up and the lot would come off it need be. (The double sided tape seals the sleeve to each surface so the inner cable has no adhesive on it only the Mylar / Alu tape non sticky back on it so it can slide on the cable plus no residues if removed). I fitted this sleeving to the entire DAB Antenna cable under the wing, so as this was outside I used adhesive PVC electrical tape until through the bulkhead rubber, from there then I swapped over to the cloth loom tape. So I continued doing that using 2m overlapping sleeves until finished all the way back to the AM / FM connector and DAB Connector on the HU box or unit. I did the same with he cable between the HU and the DAB box. Zip tied the antennas cables behind the bulkhead bar that’s behind there and kept it as far away from electric units and power supplies as possible as I also did the same with RCA signal cables which can go with it in places. Basically segregate RCA and Radio signal as far away from electronic boxes or power wires and cables as possible. Secured the DAB unit so it was not in contact with any metal parts and also a bit of aluminium foil tape in places over factory loom just to block a little EMI. Not too much or that would trap heat but strategic placement. Tested today for the first time and more DAB stations scanned and picked up, definitely has worked and FM is even more clear too. Better than before for sure and better than new with the Nak antenna (which is good in its own right anyway). So definitely the EMI blocking exercise did work and so did the ferrite clips / chokes, there are a few places some more ferrite clips could go on still if ever I remove anything such as headlights but overall the exercise was worth it. I made my own EMI blocking sleeving and in the process that only cost around £12 to do what must be 6 meters or more, you can buy EMI shielding wrap off the shelf but expect to pay £12 - £16 per meter. Either way, it does work I have noticed a difference and where I park and tested it signal isn’t easy to gain anyway between walls and buildings but it picked up a better signal across the board. More clarity, more stations and on FM as a well as DAB. So if ever you feel like such a job or the dash is out it’s worth considering doing these things. If you wanted to make your own wrap all you have to do is lie the Mylar foil down with about a 1.8m length approx (6ft give or take) stick the 50mm aluminium tape along it. Stick the 20mm double sided tape adjacent to on Mylar sheet (butt against the edge of the Alu tape) Don’t take off the other side of the double sided backing yet. Cut off the excess Mylar each side of the Alu tape and double sided, then you can wrap the cable bit by as you pull off the double side tape backing tape so the cable is left in a sleeve with the double sided tape stuck to each side of the Mylar with the Aluminium tape non adhesive tape side inside against the cable (think a hammock shape). Then you can wrap it around a little and it’ll keep its shape due to the aluminium tape, and when you need more length just overlap a little. Then you can use some PVC electrical tape or cloth loom tape over that, which prevents rattles, keeps bulk down and stops contact with other things and acts as a isolator. My RCA cables are EMI shielded as standard, but I also rerouted them all to keep them away from power wires also. There is further clarity in the audio and less white noise (not that there was much beforehand). So the moral is ferrite clips and EMI shielding does work when used strategically and where required. I do have DVB-T (Freeview tv plus dual antennas for that). However, I haven’t tested that yet and only half of the antenna cable is shielded so far. (As the unit is bending dash and is shield and antenna into us behind the dash but terminated just at dash edge before going up A pillar trim and towards the roof. I’ll continue with that shielding soon when I get time and try that as well. Obviously these AV things are only for use when parked and not whilst actually driving for very obvious reasons. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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5th Aug 2022 10:05pm |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 680
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So interestingly - bought the black one, as i absolutely agree its that one that should fit, doesn't go in. Same pin pattern, same size pins, looks like it SHOULD go in, but stops as the pins appear very slightly wider than the new plug. So given I tried an Ebay seller, i may nip in to halfords and get an adaptor and actually get them to plug it in whilst its there to avoid any issues. Frustrating to be so near but so far!!!  |
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11th Aug 2022 10:39am |
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| JW51MAT Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: UK Posts: 30 |
Hi, I've been trying to understand all this ICE and honestly its over my head. I've bought my daughter a 2001 td5 90 and she would like a better sound system. Currently it's completely standard, she not fussed about a double din but does want to play music from her iphone and use maps with directions through the speakers, her phone can go in a cradle for visuals. Now I'm sure she could spend a fortune but lets be realistic would £500 be acceptable and if so what should we be looking at, think it would be best if I got it fitted as I could easily break it with my favourite tool which has eEstwing written on the side of it. As I write this I have a funny feeling you're all going to say £500 isn't going to cut the mustard and fitting will seriously reduce what she will end up with so perhaps I will have to put my "dad can do anything hat on" and fit it myself. Oh god I hate electrics
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13th Oct 2022 9:02pm |
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| Co1 Member Since: 19 Aug 2018 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 3671 
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For that sort of money you won’t go far wrong getting hold of an alpine BT head unit as fitted in the some Pumas and a set of Focal speakers. The head units are quite widely available, stick a wanted ad on here and I’m sure someone will have something in a box in their garage!
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14th Oct 2022 5:16am |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 680
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That's more than enough money.
Head unit, single DIN, lots around, Bluetooth is the only real feature required. £120-150. A pair of 4" component speakers for the front. I understand the Focal thoughts... but in my opinion they really don't have to be Focal. Yes focal are great but with a £500 system you'll loose most of the budget buying them to little avail when the rest of the kit isn't worth the thousands needed to drive them to their full potential. A balanced system can be had without spending 2/3 the budget on a single pair of front speakers which will deliver clarity but zero bass... Anyway, £60. Ish. A set of larger component speakers for the rear, £100. Then add a fairly small, sensible, 8" sealed sub and amplifier, or a reasonable underseat sub, though I've little experience of the latter personally, packages can be had for about £150. Or buy an amplified bass box, again fairly small. Most car audio websites run deals and package deals to this end. You should also upgrade the wiring to use much better speaker wire so chuck in £50 to buy that so the speakers can actually be driven effectively. Will be transformed, fairly well balanced in terms of sound, and inside budget I'd expect. The key is she is happy to use phone for visuals, so "all" you need is a reasonable single din head unit, and you're not putting countless budget into fascias etc and double din head units which are lovely but won't change your sound quality at all. (I'd love a double din... Just thinking of your want to improve sound, not visual). |
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14th Oct 2022 5:32am |
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| JW51MAT Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: UK Posts: 30 |
By chance this is for sales local to me, should do the job? Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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14th Oct 2022 9:00am |
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| Matt110 Member Since: 29 Jun 2014 Location: UK Posts: 680
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Are there any neat simple adaptors to fit 13cm speakers to the front of a puma?
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22nd Oct 2022 7:33am |
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| zdq87 Member Since: 16 Jul 2020 Location: Bratislava Posts: 5 
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Hello everyone,
What to focus on at first to feel the difference audio wise? Def 90 Puma station wagon, Current state is standard fronts, rears don't work for some reason, Pioneer SPH radio. Results: not audible as soon as you move out of slow city traffic. 1) Sound proofing (classic 2mm deadening + 6mm foam where applicable) 2) System upgrade I am itching to fit the kit people advise here on the forums (Focal es100k + Ibus 2.1, some coax for rear driven from HU) over Christmas, however I am afraid to be disappointed before I do any soundproofing. This I prefer to do when it is again warm outside, but my truck needs some Xmas presents so dunno ...  What do you think? Will it be worthless before soundproofing and I should buy a remap instead (for example) |
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24th Nov 2022 8:15pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20300
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You really do want the soundproofing as it’ll improve your audio clarity and many other benefits.
You can do it all though you have a plethora of different options to chose from on the market. A hairdryer and roller are ideal for soundproofing and beware of getting cuts from edges on the skin. Beware of el cheapo soundproofing it is know for some to contain lead. Mines Dynamat but choose that or a market leader alternative if I was you. Soundproofing is better down in ambient temp, or you may get condensation form working on it which is very common this time of year on panels and then you’ll get moisture trapped or poor adhesion. You ar probably bets to look at your audio stuff now, and soundproofing in due course when suitable time comes. I did my doors this last year, was worth doing and I have other parts done already.  ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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24th Nov 2022 9:04pm |
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