BigMike wrote:

Mine is a MY10. If I start the engine, pulse the brake quickly ten times right away, the abs and tc lights stay on for 10 seconds and both are disabled until the next engine cycle. I have done this lots of times and can categorically say that it works.

FG wrote:

I've just tried it on my 2009 90 sw and can confirm it works.

Tried that on my 2010 90, doesn't work --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



Defender Puma Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zZ1en9
Discovery 4 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zXrtKO
Range Rover/Sport L320/L322/L494 Workshop Manual: https://bit.ly/2zc58JQ

Shax wrote:

BigMike wrote:

Mine is a MY10. If I start the engine, pulse the brake quickly ten times right away, the abs and tc lights stay on for 10 seconds and both are disabled until the next engine cycle. I have done this lots of times and can categorically say that it works.

So it's engine started, and then 10x stamp on the brake, and not just ignition on and stamp?
I know I'll forget to check this in the morning, so a confirmation on here would be well appreciated..

Just tried it on my 2010...
Ignition on, stamp away and viola, no TC or ABS!!
Here's a piccie of what the lights on the dash look like after the stampathon!


Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  ... ,-------,
.. I [__][_]|__
.. I __ |"_|"__|
.. "(o)====(o)"
^^_-^-_^-^_^^^^^--^^^^
PAUL
G7ALW 14.200 USB
26FB458 / 27.275 SSB

pom wrote:

the disco 3+ hill descent control (TC)is amazing, it will let you drive safely down a very steep compacted snow/ice covered road.

You control the speed of the abs by using the cruise control buttons. Brilliant bit of kit when its working...


Pom

So is terrain response  Mike

Shax wrote:

Shax wrote:

BigMike wrote:

Mine is a MY10. If I start the engine, pulse the brake quickly ten times right away, the abs and tc lights stay on for 10 seconds and both are disabled until the next engine cycle. I have done this lots of times and can categorically say that it works.

So it's engine started, and then 10x stamp on the brake, and not just ignition on and stamp?
I know I'll forget to check this in the morning, so a confirmation on here would be well appreciated..

Just tried it on my 2010...
Ignition on, stamp away and viola, no TC or ABS!!
Here's a piccie of what the lights on the dash look like after the stampathon!

Doesnt seem to work on my MY11

Sorry to be thick, but how long do you wait when the ignition's on (engine running?) before stamping and how fast do you stamp.
Cheers,
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

ZeDefender wrote:

Shax wrote:

Shax wrote:

BigMike wrote:

Mine is a MY10. If I start the engine, pulse the brake quickly ten times right away, the abs and tc lights stay on for 10 seconds and both are disabled until the next engine cycle. I have done this lots of times and can categorically say that it works.

So it's engine started, and then 10x stamp on the brake, and not just ignition on and stamp?
I know I'll forget to check this in the morning, so a confirmation on here would be well appreciated..

Just tried it on my 2010...
Ignition on, stamp away and viola, no TC or ABS!!
Here's a piccie of what the lights on the dash look like after the stampathon!

Doesnt seem to work on my MY11

Sorry to be thick, but how long do you wait when the ignition's on (engine running?) before stamping and how fast do you stamp.
Cheers,
Matt

4wheeler wrote:

ZeDefender wrote:

Shax wrote:

Shax wrote:

BigMike wrote:

Mine is a MY10. If I start the engine, pulse the brake quickly ten times right away, the abs and tc lights stay on for 10 seconds and both are disabled until the next engine cycle. I have done this lots of times and can categorically say that it works.

So it's engine started, and then 10x stamp on the brake, and not just ignition on and stamp?
I know I'll forget to check this in the morning, so a confirmation on here would be well appreciated..

Just tried it on my 2010...
Ignition on, stamp away and viola, no TC or ABS!!
Here's a piccie of what the lights on the dash look like after the stampathon!

Doesnt seem to work on my MY11

Sorry to be thick, but how long do you wait when the ignition's on (engine running?) before stamping and how fast do you stamp.
Cheers,
Matt

Matt,
I have tried it on my Oct 07 Puma and it seems to disable the ABS and Traction Control. I turned on the ignition, started the engine and started pumping the brake pedal straight away at a rate of two pumps per second. All 10 pumping actions were completed within 5 seconds. The ABS and TC warning lights then stayed on until I switched the engine off.
With any luck I will see how it goes next weekend as I will be doing some sand driving in a semi desert area in northern Victoria which has a few soft dunes to negotiate. Depends on work though. I'll try the soft dunes with and without TC and see what happens.

Many thanks - think I may have been too slow (or LR have changed the firmware...)
Off to try it now
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

ZeDefender wrote:

think I may have been too slow (or LR have changed the firmware...)

Didn't work for me as that's why i went for the switch. LR said it's the post my11 defenders that changed regarding this. In addition you are no longer to create a splice in the fuse box... TC has been moved into the ecu.

Anyway tried it out yesterday in the desert, beautiful doesn't struggle when it reaches the top of the sandy dunes.

 2012 Fuji White 110 Flattened

Def-00 wrote:

ZeDefender wrote:

think I may have been too slow (or LR have changed the firmware...)

Didn't work for me as that's why i went for the switch. LR said it's the post my11 defenders that changed regarding this. In addition you are no longer to create a splice in the fuse box... TC has been moved into the ecu.

Anyway tried it out yesterday in the desert, beautiful doesn't struggle when it reaches the top of the sandy dunes.

Hi Def-00
Aha - that's why I can't do it! Wondering about this mod too as we get really deep snow in Bavaria.
Just to grab this opportunity - a quick "ambush" question (off topic - sorry ). Do you ever find changing up from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear a bit rough, e.g. a bit hard to get into 2nd and a bit of a "kick" before it goes into 3rd? I'm trying to gather info for several members (especially me)

Many thanks,
Matt Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing...

ZeDefender wrote:

Do you ever find changing up from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear a bit rough, e.g. a bit hard to get into 2nd and a bit of a "kick" before it goes into 3rd? I'm trying to gather info for several members (especially me)

Many thanks,
Matt

Yes I do, I found out it's a matter of changing my driving style and completely submitting to the gearbox. I read on replies to you about nudging the gear out and into the next without using the clutch, that's what I do but while using the clutch, I'll push lightly until it pops in by itself. Happens with 2nd to 3rd and back down sometimes. I don't usually use first on the road just offroad or tight steep underground parking. Oh and if the gear doesn't go in smoothly I had a few occaisons where it would pop out once I release the clutch. Good luck with getting more info from the other members, hope this helps in anyway. 2012 Fuji White 110 Flattened