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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150   
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In order to fit a replacement mud flap I removed the old one but the inner rivnut is spinning, so I can't get the bolt out. I've tried pliers, wedging a spanner on - any ideas?
 Click image to enlarge 2011 110 USW 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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20th Jun 2021 9:49am |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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Yeah I tried that, can't get enough pressure on them to hold it. Might just have to cut the bolt off. :/ 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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20th Jun 2021 11:17am |
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| windy81 Member Since: 14 Mar 2018 Location: North Wales Posts: 311  
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Re tighten the rivnut as you would when installing it.
Failing that I've jammed a screwdriver behind the flange to get the bolt removed |
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21st Jun 2021 7:32am |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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I didn't install them, and it just spins either way? 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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21st Jun 2021 8:30am |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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As my 110 approaches 100,000 miles it has developed a couple of niggles. Yesterday I got really bad rev hang, which it has never done too much before. This was really obvious and made it a bit of a pain to change gear. Turning the ignition off and on again seemed to cure it.
My headlamps developed a strange feature. When putting low beam on the blue main beam light would glow dimly, brightening up when going to full beam. When i got to my mother's house i asked her to operate the switches so i could see what the lights were doing. They operated normally and,the dash light was back to normal. I've also got a sort of low howl coming from the back of the vehicle when running, wheel bearing or diff? Any ideas? 2011 110 USW 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" Last edited by 22900013A on 28th Jul 2021 12:40pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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28th Jul 2021 8:18am |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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I'd probably look at the clutch switch for the rev hang problem and the light switch for the high beam indicator.
The low howl has realistically got to be either a wheel bearing or diff but couldn't say which one. Perhaps drain the diff oil and see if that suggests anything? Darren 110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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28th Jul 2021 8:56am |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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Thanks, at least give me something to go on. 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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28th Jul 2021 12:40pm |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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30th Jul 2021 12:13pm |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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So I had a set of 569203 (often, incorrectly, termed IIB rims) and realised my Michelin 7.50R16s could be run with tubes...! So here it is! Now I must confess I'm a little dissapointed, one as the rear wheels make very slight contact with the brake caliper. The tyre place have ground the wheels slightly but it's still catching on cornering. Secondly the handling is woeful, steering is now really twitchy and it feels too light in the tail end. Very bad steering wobble over 55mph. I'm hoping balancing will help, but seriously considering just cutting my losses and going back to standard rims. Does look the absolute dogs though. Thoughts?
Click image to enlarge 2011 110 USW 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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30th Nov 2021 4:40pm |
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| CarMan Member Since: 29 Nov 2010 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 1869
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+1 for the looks
 Rob
1993 200tdi 90 hard-top 1998 300tdi 90 soft-top 2016 2.2 XS 90 hard-top (sold) |
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30th Nov 2021 4:50pm |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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Yeah looks epic but a bit worried about ending up in a ditch... 2011 110 USW
1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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30th Nov 2021 5:00pm |
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| L110CDL Member Since: 31 Oct 2015 Location: Devon Posts: 10817 
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They do look good though, what offset are they please ? 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.
Keeper. Clayton. |
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8th Dec 2021 9:16pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17477 
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I think the only way to run Series-type rivetted tube-type rims on a disc-barked Defender is to fit wheel spacers, there is insufficient clearance otherwise.
On one occasions when I was rotating the tyres on my 2007 DC I grabbed a Series rim of my pile of spares and fitted it with a couple of nuts, simply to hold up one corner while I moved the take-off wheel to the next corner. It clonked on the brakes many times during one revolution (and initially I thought I found a broken diff - then I realised what was happening). If you want this style of rim I strongly suggest using the Nakatanenga "look-alike" which fits perfectly and is TUV and type approved. |
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9th Dec 2021 8:41am |
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| 22900013A Member Since: 23 Dec 2010 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 3150
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I decided just to take them off and go back to standard wheels, now runs just as nicely as it did before. Oh well, we live and learn...
Had it put spacers on the wheels would be outside the wheelarches so probably illegal. 2011 110 USW 1973 Series III 1-Ton 1972 Series III 1-Ton Cherrypicker 1969 IIA 1-Ton 1966 IIA 88" |
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13th Feb 2022 3:44pm |
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